F%%K me, what now ?

[Cornelius]

So here is the short version of a long story.

Bought a TJ, had shit suspension so changed to 3 inch coils and adjustable shocks. Had drive line vibration so fitted new gearbox mount , shock relocation brackets at the rear and adjustable rear upper arms and adjustable trackbar rear ( got the diff angle good again ). Car drove fine. Fitted new front uni's. Car drove fine. Started getting wobbles , changed front track bar
to adjustable unit, changed front unis again as the others were f'd after six months ( probably not fitted correctly in the first place by mechanic). Car now has fu$#king drive line vibration again especially bad when decellerating .........what the hell do I look for now ????????

Yes the wheels were balanced and alligned for the upteenth time after changing the front track bar. ...........

And now to top it all off the clutch cable snapped on the weekend ........great fun !!

More importantly what the hell do I look for regarding the driveline vibration ?

[Dustbowl]

Wow! Talk about a streak of the raw end!
Install a SYE (slip yolk eliminator) vibrations solved :)
If your still adamant you can also do a transfer case drop.

Ps I hate snapping clutch cables!

[Lieutenant]

At 3 inches you may need to seriously consider upgrading the drive shaft and installing an SYE. Alternatively, transfer case spacers could also be used, but at 3 inches I think you'd be stretching the limit for those.

This is obviously assuming you haven't already looked at these :)

[Sontssonts]

SYE x3 :hump:

[Cornelius]

SYE x3 :hump:

Sorry I forgot to mention guys the TJ has got a SYE in and the front drive shaft seems aftermarket ( Spicer or something similar stamped on it )

What else do I look for ? This is realy giving me the :toilet: !!!!

[Jimmyb]

The death wobbles, did you replace the front control arms? If so your adjustment may be out.

Vibration, space the cross member down an inch and see if vibe goes away, might point you in the right direction then.

[Cornelius]

The death wobbles, did you replace the front control arms? If so your adjustment may be out.

Vibration, space the cross member down an inch and see if vibe goes away, might point you in the right direction then.

Hi Jimmy

I replaced the track bar only I did not touch the front control arms .......I did look at the front diff - shaft alignment and it looks pretty much in line ......

The wobbles seemed to have been cured 99% with replacing the track bar but now I have this driveline vibration and all I did was change the front track bar ...........the day before the track bar change there was no drive line vibration at all ??

[Cornelius]

I'm off to get the darn thing towed to get the clutch fixed , will stop by a little later to see if you guys may have something else suggested for the vibration :-)

Thanks for the repliers thus far

[sssadamsss]

if you are sure you have a SYE in the back then you need to adjust your upper and/or lower rear control arms to get your drive line angle right.

when you dont run a SYE you need to have pinion uni and output shaft uni parralell with each other

when you have a SYE you need to have the piniol uni pointing straight up to the output shaft unit. so there is 1 degree down angle. the one degree is so that under acceleration the uni goes to 0 degrees.

Look at this link below, it explains it in more depth. scroll down to "C.V. drive shaft" section. Pretty easy to do once you understand how it works. i used the iphone angle finder app.
im running 5" lift with no vibrations at all.

http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html

[Sontssonts]

rear pinion angle would be my next guess as well. Especially the part where its particularly bad on slowing down, i know that vibe all too well

have a look at the length of the rear uppers

as sssadamasss (is that how i spell it?) said iphone app => https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/basic-angle-finder/id503813798?mt=8

[Tassie Jeeper]

as sssadamasss (is that how i spell it?) said

haha better than me id just copy and paste:monkey:

[Morgs]

Mate only thing I'll add is to check your DC Joint in your rear shaft. Get under there and grab the shaft and shake it in all directions. Then role the car forward half a metre and do the same. Check for any movement. If there is some take it to a good Hardy Spicer store (there are good and bad ones like everything in life).

Other thing - halve the problem and just pull your front drive shaft out and go for a drive (when your clutch cable is fixed). It takes SFA time to get under there with a number 8 ring spanner and undo the four front uni bolts and give the shaft a pull. If it drives fine take the front shaft to a driveline shop (drive line services australia or who ever floats your boat). They charge SFA to sort these type of issues that cause endless mental "what if" problems in your head.

[Jonny Jeep]

Loose track bars can be a common cause vibes, generally at the axle end. Old control arm bushings can cause a lot of vibe too. And I have to ask since all TJs have a hydraulically operated clutch... How on earth can a clutch cable be bad?

[Cornelius]

Loose track bars can be a common cause vibes, generally at the axle end. Old control arm bushings can cause a lot of vibe too. And I have to ask since all TJs have a hydraulically operated clutch... How on earth can a clutch cable be bad?

Righto guys as you can tell I don't know much about cars , apparently there is some sort of plastic clip thingymabob that connects the clutch pedal to something else that makes it all work and apparently this clipy thingy broke.Penguin All fixed again and I can go get the Heep back from the garage this afternoon.

Thank you again for all the replies on the vibes , I will start working my way through the suggestions to see is I can get this thing to drive at least half decently. :confused:

[Jonny Jeep]

Ahh, the old clip thingymabob that links the pedal to the master cylinder plunger, Jeep call it BUSHING, Hydraulic Clutch Actuator. I've had one of those break in the past.

[Cornelius]

Ahh, the old clip thingymabob that links the pedal to the master cylinder plunger, Jeep call it BUSHING, Hydraulic Clutch Actuator. I've had one of those break in the past.

I was amazed to see what the part looked like , it is a tiny flimsy little cradle thingy made from plastic ! Bugger me ! Anyway now replaced with SS replacement fabbed up part so hopefully we dont go there again ......

Now for the vibration as traveling home at 40kmh was no fun :rolleyes:

[Cornelius]

Ahh, the old clip thingymabob that links the pedal to the master cylinder plunger, Jeep call it BUSHING, Hydraulic Clutch Actuator. I've had one of those break in the past.

Naaaaa Jonny Jeep , the part you are describing ( I clicked on the link ) is not it. Will post a pick up soon as it must be seen to be believed

[Sontssonts]

There is a similar clip on the autos connecting the cable to the selector on the box. Wouldn't start 1 day (safety overide) as it was still in drive despite the selector saying it was in park.

After a hot start it proceeded to drive into the wall in front of me. SS all the way.

[Tassie Jeeper]

the vibration as traveling home at 40kmh was no fun :rolleyes:

are your tyres ballanced properly...?

i got a set of stickys they are awesome in the bush but undriveable on the rd feels like something is going to break:shock:

[Cornelius]

are your tyres ballanced properly...?

i got a set of stickys they are awesome in the bush but undriveable on the rd feels like something is going to break:shock:

Yeah mate I have a set of all terrains for the road and muddies for off-road. Running the 33 AT's at the moment and have done so without any issues for a while , no vibrations or anything.

Basically the car was bought with the following already installed: SYE, Spicer front drive shaft, 2 inch body lift, 2 inch sagged springs with OME shocks. Control arms and tracks bars was standard gear.

I then changed to: 3 inch springs , rancho adjustable shocks , new gearbox mount, adjustable rear upper control arms and adjustable rear pan hard and rear shock relocation brackets. The front uni's were replaced at the same time .......

The car ran good for a while ( no vibes or wobbles ). Then shakes started , more of a body shake than a steering wheel shake ,very little at first and got worse .........Done a few alignments and tyre balancing to see if this improve things ........it did a little but was not the cure ...

Got pulled over by DOT because of tyre size and was told to do full safety inspection. All was good but front uni's were replaced again as the old ones were dry and partly seized ( within six months of fitting new ones and no offroading )

So after the safety inspection and new front uni's, I fitted the adjustable front track bar to see of this would eliminate the shakes .........my wife drove the car for a week or so thereafter ( 50km total travel ) and then I got the chance to test if the shakes were gone .......it looks like it might be gone but was replaced by this bad driveline vibration that prevents me from properly driving the Jeep to see if the shakes are gone. ( And then the clutch thingymabob broke leaving me stranded by the side of the road :rolleyes:)

So that is where I am at now , cure the vibes to see if I cured the shakes to then save money for someone to help me fit bumpstop extentions so that I can take the bloody thing offroad for the first time in a year and a half of ownership ! :hammer:

[Cornelius]

Ahh, the old clip thingymabob that links the pedal to the master cylinder plunger, Jeep call it BUSHING, Hydraulic Clutch Actuator. I've had one of those break in the past.

This is the part that brought me to my knees .......it is the size of your pinkie nail and made from flimsy plastic ...........:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

[rhysTJ]

Check for driveshaft play standard driveshafts die quickly when offroad lack of grease for slip splines

[SKU113]

surely with 3" of lift the lower control arms and swaybar needs upgrading?

[Cornelius]

surely with 3" of lift the lower control arms and swaybar needs upgrading?

Not sure SKU113 , there seem to be 7mil different opinions out there !

Was wondering about if swaybars need to be looked at ....... I have put on quick disconnects on the front ( never used thus far of course as I am yet to take this thing offroad ) but wondered about the rear ........what does one do here ? Extend it ? Do nothing ?

I can currently move the rear swaybar side to side by hand ........about 2cm no problem. Is this a good thing ? A bad thing ? Or just normal ?


Cheers

[bonza]

This is the part that brought me to my knees .......it is the size of your pinkie nail and made from flimsy plastic ...........:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:


yes, it is called a Bushing, Hydraulic clutch actuator. part #04446361. cost under $3 in the US. probably a hundred here

for vibes check this out http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/pinion/pinion-1.htm

[Sontssonts]

Not sure SKU113 , there seem to be 7mil different opinions out there !

Was wondering about if swaybars need to be looked at ....... I have put on quick disconnects on the front ( never used thus far of course as I am yet to take this thing offroad ) but wondered about the rear ........what does one do here ? Extend it ? Do nothing ?

I can currently move the rear swaybar side to side by hand ........about 2cm no problem. Is this a good thing ? A bad thing ? Or just normal ?


Cheers

you can extend the links in the rear, but i don't think its compulsory with 3"

that movement is the same in mine, and i have longer links.

[Cornelius]

you can extend the links in the rear, but i don't think its compulsory with 3"

that movement is the same in mine, and i have longer links.

Cheers mate

[Cornelius]

yes, it is called a Bushing, Hydraulic clutch actuator. part #04446361. cost under $3 in the US. probably a hundred here

for vibes check this out http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/pinion/pinion-1.htm

Hahahaha Hydraulic clutch actuator hey ? ? Looks more like a bee's dick ! :D

Thanks for the vibes link :cool:

[Cornelius]

Righto , so the cause of the horible vibration was the Hardey Spicer rear drive shaft. All the uni's were pretty much stuffed and the double cardan joint link was rooted. So a quick visit to Hardey Spicer at Eagle Farm and the shaft came back looking like a million bucks with all new greasable uni's. Ken and the boys were very friendly , helpful and did a bloody fantastic job! I am back on the road ..........and smiling again .........

[KKnut]

A big pat on the back to everyone that offered advice, it's great to know the Jeep community will help out when needed! :)

[Cornelius]

A big pat on the back to everyone that offered advice, it's great to know the Jeep community will help out when needed! :)

Amen to that :-)

[Will239]

glad it got sorted... the fact that it vibrated more when deccelerating suggests the vibration was related to the driveline not the suspension or steering.

[Cornelius]

glad it got sorted... the fact that it vibrated more when deccelerating suggests the vibration was related to the driveline not the suspension or steering.

Too right Will239 ..........my leaning curve is still steep but with the help of everyone here we get there in the end :-)