Transfer case rebuild

[Gianni]

Hi there. My transfer case tends to grind a little when set to 4H. I either need to rebuild it or source a new one. What are people's opinions.
Hard to rebuild (what will I need), and how much are parts?
how much can I pick a second hand one up for?

[MidnightMods]

Grind as in what way?

[Gianni]

Well ill drive along and it will randomly clunk. Feels like its popping out of gear but its the transfer case. I'm thinking a syncro as its fine in 2H

[Richo]

Clunk when driving in 4wd..... on bitumen you mean?
In 4 hi and 4 lo range?

Going up hills, or down, or on the flat?

[Gianni]

Clunk when driving in 4wd..... on bitumen you mean?
In 4 hi and 4 lo range?

Going up hills, or down, or on the flat?

It's a clunk in 4H like its popping out of gear, but whilst driving in 4H there sometimes was a little crunch like when not in gear properly. I've only done it on the street. I think it was fairly flat vmaybe downhill slightly.

Doesn't do it in 2H, haven't tried 4L

[Richo]

As I said in your other thread, get under it and check the linkages.... either they have slop in them, or they arent adjusted correctly. The transfer lever you pull is bolted to the floorpan (trans tunnel) then is attached to to the TF case, and you get some wear and slop in the linkages in between. It may be that 4wd/lo range isnt engaging properly.

[Darius]

If I had just bought it, first thing I would do is drop ALL the fluids and a replace them with good new stuff.

[Tallpieman]

sounds to me like your chain is stretched

[Toff]

sounds to me like your chain is stretched

Agreed. Pretty common.

[Gianni]

Alright cheers. Ill look at that today :)
I'm doing all the engine fluids. But wasn't doing drive train fluids because they were only done last month, the guys mechanic was the one that said t/c had an issue.
Ill try adjust the chain :)

[bonza]

Alright cheers. Ill look at that today :)
I'm doing all the engine fluids. But wasn't doing drive train fluids because they were only done last month, the guys mechanic was the one that said t/c had an issue.
Ill try adjust the chain :)

you only need one litre of ATF dexron II or any ATF for that matter, doesn't cost much. you can even use engine oil in the transfer with no ill affects

if the chain is stretched that means the chain's pins, rollers and links are worn. the only fix is to replace it

[Squall]

Hmmm having similar problems at the moment. Just did the Simpson and am on my way to Fraser. I drive an 06 TJ with the 6 speed manual. Yesterday afternoon at the end of the day the car developed a loud cluncking sound from the driveline when taking off and changing into second. I checked the Uni's last night with no problems there and this morning it was fine. After a couple of hours driving and stopping off for a break the cluncking was back on takeoff. Checked the Uni's again and still no problem. Did some basic fault finding and the sound only comes when accelerating or decelerating in gear. It's really loud in first and second and diminishes in third and forth. Not I hope clutch related as you don't have to change gears to get the sound and the c,itch is only 6 months old.

Two other issues that could be related, my handbrake has started to stick half way up sometimes and will only pull all the way up after releasing it a couple of times

I had to re tension my transfer case linkage in the Simpson due to slipping out of 4H all the time. Did I go to far and now the transfer case is trying to engage?

Plan at the moment. Check all the Uni's in the morning while cold. Re adjust the transfer case linkage. Check the handbrake out and if that all fails then find a mechanic. Unless those wiser and more knowledgable then me have any ideas.


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[anthonygubbin]

In regards to rebuilding a TC I think you need to be fairly knowledgeable to undertake it. I tried doing my NP 242 and ended up needing to get it done by a mech. IMO I would source a second hand rebuilt one. Depending on where you live a few blokes on AJOR do them, Rodgebone is one and I know Dave AKA Wooders has done a few. If it is anything like an NP 242 there are some tricky things, like an impossible roll pin that needs to come out when rebuilding one. That's why I gave mine to someone else to rebuild. IMO I probably may have been able to do it with all the right tools as it is not all that complicated apart from the couple of issues mentioned. However it was something I just did not feel confident in doing on my own.

Regards A

[Wooders]

Anthony, The NP231 is a little simpler case to work on than the NP242, overall they are pretty straight forward. But if anyone wants a hand rebuildng one I'd be happy to help.

And for the OP I would suggest it's possibly the chain that is stretched if the problem only occurs in 4wd. The OP question is a few months old so I wonder what the answer was......


Squall, you don't say if the problem only occurs in 4wd or not, just in which gear, which would lead me to think it is not the t/case chain. (good for you since you don't want to be splitting the case in BFnowhere).
Check the transmission mount. Also mark each uni cap relative to the yokes and check that the cap isn't spinning relative to the yoke.

[Squall]

Squall, you don't say if the problem only occurs in 4wd or not, just in which gear, which would lead me to think it is not the t/case chain. (good for you since you don't want to be splitting the case in BFnowhere).
Check the transmission mount. Also mark each uni cap relative to the yokes and check that the cap isn't spinning relative to the yoke.

Thanks Wooders, I will try both of those ideas this morning. The clunking sout occurs in 2H but this thread was the best one I could find to describe the sound and my problem on search.

Thanks again for some great ideas.

[Wooders]

No Prob. Well definately not the t/case chain ;)
If you get stuck give me a call & we'll see what we can brainstorm over the phone.
Cheers

[Gianni]

Hey. Picking up a new t/c this weekend with sye. Then I'll pull cover offline and inspect and get back to you. There is heaps of oil build up around the transfer case :s

[skwake]

I remember seeing a great video on youtube of a mechanic rebuilding one in 3 or 4 minutes on a bench. I will have a look...

[skwake]

Couldnt find it but there is one of a SYE install and another of a dissasembly. Both informative

[Squall]

I think I found my problem. Thank the heavens it was not the transfer case in the end. This UNI joint has seen better days. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/11/zenyvy8u.jpg
That cap on the left has smashed to pieces just as I pulled into repco to get a 8mm socket I didn't have. The one on the right was just full of powder where the roller bearings should have been. Now down to two spare unis for the rest of the trip. 30 minutes to fix on the side of the road though and not something major like I was fearing.

[anthonygubbin]

Squall better buy a lottery ticket. It may only be a rumour but I have heard of major accidents occurring when a uni lets go and digs into the ground. :)

Regards A

[nitrobrent]

Repco carry uni's K5-13XR ,about $24 ,greaseable 1310 uni

[Squall]

Yeah I was rather lucky in the end I have to admit. Of all the things it could have been it was the cheapest and easiest to fix on the side of the road. I still can't believe I didn't have the 8mm socket in my tool bag.

As for the UNI letting go and dropping the tail shaft it was the rear of the two. Ironically the one I had to fix in Tassie 4 years ago on another adventure. I would hate to loose the front one while driving, yikes that would hurt.

I also had two spare splicer UNI joints in the tool bag so picked up a repco one to ad to the spares for the trip.

Thanks for the advice last night. I must have been thinking worst case while I was researching what it could have been. I made it to Kinkuna camp ground just south of Bunderburg for a night rest stop before crossing to Fraser tomorrow.


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[tassiecj6]

just out of interest ,What did you use to push the cups into the yolk seeing you were on the side of the road doing it .
might be a trick that others can use ;)

[Squall]

just out of interest ,What did you use to push the cups into the yolk seeing you were on the side of the road doing it .
might be a trick that others can use ;)

I just used a long socket and my hammer to bash the cups out. For a work bench I found my hi lift jack wheel lifter perfect. The socket was sacraficed for the job years ago. I think it started life a a wheel lug socket that came in a set that was to big for the jeep. So a little bit of recycling was in order :p

[Gianni]

you only need one litre of ATF dexron II or any ATF for that matter, doesn't cost much. you can even use engine oil in the transfer with no ill affects

if the chain is stretched that means the chain's pins, rollers and links are worn. the only fix is to replace it

Got new t/c in and put ATF (automatic transition fluid) dextron 3 in. I've noticed though that now the gearbox is leaking. Not sure where from yet. There was gasket glue between tc and gear box originally but I didn't put any on so I'm assuming that's the source.

Is it ok to use ATF dextron in the gear box too?

[Richo]

As I said on the phone the other day mine had no sealant between the AX15 manual and standard transfer, still none with the Atlas on. It doesn't leak and never has.
Maybe the output shaft seal is buggered?
Did oil drop out when you took the old transfer case off?

Bear in mind if you tilt the gearbox down without a transfer case connected, oil will drain out from where the tf case shaft normally meets the seal. Maybe there is still some residual oil there but it's stopped leaking?

And no, use gearbox oil, not ATF in the gearbox.( Its a manual isnt it?)The five speeds aren't that picky, but use quality oil.

[Gianni]

Besides the leaking everything is working good. The 4x4, no more clunking around corners at slow speeds ect. It's just this leak. I did notice a little pour out when tc was off but put it Dow. To just because case was off. But since back on it still drips. Thought it was excess but been driving it every day and after sitting for a few hours there is always a substantial (not dramatic) amount of oil sitting on ground so it's not excess.

It must be that seal between the gearbox and the tc spline aye? Do you have the part number or better yet got one hanging around I can grab off you?

I'll pop off bash plate and have a decent look to see if that's the issue. Before I did the tc there was oil everywhere but never leaked like this so ill double check its not another problem

As I said on the phone the other day mine had no sealant between the AX15 manual and standard transfer, still none with the Atlas on. It doesn't leak and never has.
Maybe the output shaft seal is buggered?
Did oil drop out when you took the old transfer case off?

Bear in mind if you tilt the gearbox down without a transfer case connected, oil will drain out from where the tf case shaft normally meets the seal. Maybe there is still some residual oil there but it's stopped leaking?

And no, use gearbox oil, not ATF in the gearbox.( Its a manual isnt it?)The five speeds aren't that picky, but use quality oil.

[Gianni]

Gasket glued between tc and gb. Worked a dream.......for about 5 days....but now a small leak has re occurred. ********ing shit bastard ******** of a slut! When I saw the leak again I started having thoughts along the lines of the rant where the guys stabs the shit out of his lawn mower with a screw driver.

Any woooooo..... Anyone know what seal I need. Part number?

[Gianni]

Post 3
http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-67222531.html

[bonza]

Gasket glued between tc and gb. Worked a dream.......for about 5 days....but now a small leak has re occurred. ********ing shit bastard ******** of a slut! When I saw the leak again I started having thoughts along the lines of the rant where the guys stabs the shit out of his lawn mower with a screw driver.

Any woooooo..... Anyone know what seal I need. Part number?

sounds like you need the seal that fits into the transfer case input where gearbox mounts to the transfer. jeep part number 050101902 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-05019020AA-Transfer-Case-Input-Shaft-Seal-Jeep-Chrysler-OEM-/200940023350

or item 30 on this diagram http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-transfer-case/np-231-parts.htm

did you remove it during the rebuild? a common mistake is fitting oil seals back to front, make sure the lip faces inwards

[Gianni]

sounds like you need the seal that fits into the transfer case input where gearbox mounts to the transfer. jeep part number 050101902 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-05019020AA-Transfer-Case-Input-Shaft-Seal-Jeep-Chrysler-OEM-/200940023350

or item 30 on this diagram http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-transfer-case/np-231-parts.htm

did you remove it during the rebuild? a common mistake is fitting oil seals back to front, make sure the lip faces inwards

Hey man. I didn't remove any seal. It's not transfer oil because I have ATF in the case. So it definatly gear oil. Pretty sure it will have to be that seal that the spline slips through that's on tr gearbox

[Gianni]

That looks like the seal actually! But it was jammed in the gearbox when I tool tc off thought that's where it was meant to stay :p

[bonza]

if it's gearbox oil and not atf from the transfer then must be seal #3 as shown here. you have a five speed NV box dont you?

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-transmission-parts/new-venture-nv3550.htm

[Gianni]

if it's gearbox oil and not atf from the transfer then must be seal #3 as shown here. you have a five speed NV box dont you?

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-transmission-parts/new-venture-nv3550.htm

Yep sounds right :) got a part number?

[Gianni]

The link says 2000 onwards. Mines a 97 :s

[Richo]

Either way take the part number to a bearing shop, ie CBC, they should match it with a seal that is about 1/100th the cost of a Mopar part.

[Gianni]

Either way take the part number to a bearing shop, ie CBC, they should match it with a seal that is about 1/100th the cost of a Mopar part.

So the seal on the 1997 should be the same ad on the 2000 and up yeah? Ill give them that part number and go from there. Probably call wholesale bearings :)

[Jonny Jeep]

This is a good reference source for bearings and seals

http://www.showmetheparts.com/timken/#

or alternatively rockauto.com can be useful too.

[bonza]

The link says 2000 onwards. Mines a 97 :s

OK, you have an Aisin ax15 gearbox. out put seal http://www.jeep4x4center.com/rear-adapter-seal-83503108.html

[Gianni]

Perfect. Ill see if I can find one local. Cheers

[Jonny Jeep]

The link to 4x4center only shows the OEM and 4x4center part numbers.
If buying locally you'll likely need the standard seal number from the timken site which is 1209N.

[Gianni]

Alright. Ill see if I have luck with that standard number :)

[layback40]

On the Timken site IIRC they have dimensions of the seal. You can check it there. When you go to a bearing place if you give them the hole size, shaft size & seal thickness & a description of the type of seal it is they should be able to give you the one you need. If you have the seal in your hand when you go to the place, it makes it easier. Over the phone identification of generic seals is not a good idea.

[Jonny Jeep]

19601 SKF
19605 SKF
19606 SKF
2116301 Repco
P6301 Repco

Some cross referenced part numbers from http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/Documents/Timken_Seal_Interchange_and_Cross_Reference_Guide. pdf

[Gianni]

Got new seal on. Cost $5 from bearing wholesalers :) I'm probs low on gear oil so will top up this arvo and we shall see