Installed lift kit. Big knock

[Gianni]

Hey hey,
So I've installed the front shocks and suspension of my 2" lift kit. Ran out of time to do rear. Took it for a drive around the block and when I turn right there is a massive knocking, it goes faster and slower with the speed of vehicle. When I turn left there is no knock coming from centre of car around gearbox

Got under the car and the front drive shaft has a lot of play around the gearbox (transfer case). A lot more than the rear shaft

Put it up on jack stands (jacking from diff at front and rear and putting stands on either side) an put it into gear and there was nothing when turning. Checked shafts and they were a lot firmer.

Lowered the rear of the car and checked shafts. Still firm
Lowered the front and now the shaft feels loose again. Looking closely i can see movement around the circle where the shaft goes into box. The uni joint looks ok.

I'm going to put the rear lift in tomorrow but before I do does this sound common to anyone, should lifting the rear solve the issue. I don't want to lift rear and then find out standard stuff needs to go back on.

There is also a 1" tc drop kit in the kit I can put on. Only stuff changed is shocks and springs. Away bars, and everything else still set up standard.

[charlieTJ05]

Retorque your trackbar should fix knock.
The movement is the front diff is normal as the front drive shaft isnt locked in place until you select 4h or 4l

[Gianni]

Retorque your trackbar should fix knock.
The movement is the front diff is normal as the front drive shaft isnt locked in place until you select 4h or 4l

So the extra movement in front shaft is normal? Track bar? Is that the sway bar? And why only when turning right? Like I said noise is coming from centre and is faster with speed that's why I'm thinking shaft. Or is track bar causing shaft to do that?

[charlieTJ05]

Yes normal.

Trackbar helps keep the axel centre under the car. Loosen the bottom bolt then retorque to 55 ft/lbs.

Have a look at this
http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html

[Gianni]

Hmm, do you have a pic of the track bar?

I put the rear suspension on so sitting level now.
I also fitted the t/c drop.
http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z323/lxanda/F42D8022-6E0F-4A22-9D37-CA3C2025CA7E-592-000000F0381B2ABC.jpg
It's just the 3 on each side yeah? I noticed when I lowered the bash plate that the front shaft stiffened up. But even with this kit on it is still loose.

Another question. I was also given these. Anyone got a pic of where they go?
It's two more bushes and a bracket
http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z323/lxanda/885D1639-AB20-4924-99B4-F15937C06420-592-000000F025933C4D.jpg

After all this tool it for a drive and still does it only at right turns. Even a minor light turn. But only when car is moving.
We parked the car in garage and got a friend to turn the wheel, I noticed that when turning the front would lift higher on one side then sink back down when I turned the other way. That extra hight on one side could be pulling shaft?

Also I noticed a slight ticking from the passanger rear hub/drum brake and there is oil all around the rear drivers side drum. Not sure if related

[low ranger]

That cad plated bracket is the rear panhard rod lowering bracket. It fits to the chassis in behind the P/S rear wheel. Remove the bolt holding the panhard rod to the chassis, fit the bracket in place & refit the panhard rod to the bracket. loosen the panhard rod mounting bolt on the diff end & retighten after giving the Jeep a good bouncing up & down to settle it all in place unstressed.
cheers,
rick

[Gianni]

Oh. So if that lowers the rear diff. Shoul tere be one for the front diff too? Or if I loosen the track bar will it drop it to right hight and then I tighten it again?

What about the car lifting when turn one way and sinking when I turn the other?

[Gianni]

And what are the two silver spaces for?

[low ranger]

I have no idea what the 2 alloy looking spacers are for mate. This is what I would do tho... jack up the P/S rear under the axle just high enough to remove the wheel & take it off. Loosen the panhard rod attaching bolt at the diff end. Remove the panhard rod bolt from the chassis end & fit the drop bracket. It will only fit 1 way. Re-attach the panhard rod & jump up & down on the towbar to settle everything in. Tighten both panhard rod bolts & refit the wheel. The mounting bolts on the front panhard rod need to be loosened, the suspension bounced as before & then re-tighten the bolts. The jacking up & down going from lock to lock is probably caused by the increased angle of the panhard rod caused by lifting the suspension & I`m not ure if there is a fix for the Oz spec TJ`s. Remove the front tailshaft & see if the knocking goes away. That should help you isloate the problem.
cheers,
Rick

[Sontssonts]

The 2 extra spaces are for autos. They have an extra skid. I wouldn't be surprised if the knock goes once that track bar bracket is in

[Gianni]

Alright. Cheers bro. Ill get onto that this arvo :) and let you know how we go
With removing front tail shaft, what's the best way. Do I need to block off diff/t/c so no oil is lost?

[low ranger]

You won`t lose any oil by removing the FRONT tailshaft. Unless you have some serious dramas in the diff or transfer case... Check the double cardan for tight spots & the slip spline for wear. Often times, these parts will develop a wear pattern & will react when their position is changed by lifting or lowering.
later,
Rick

[Gianni]

So I put the rear arm bracket on fine. Loosened and wobbled car and tightened. Went to do the front and found the bolt in it had snapped bee places bolt and now no clunking :)
But I couldn't get bolt through original hole. Had to use second hole like this
http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z323/lxanda/384238B6-5F8F-4E70-900C-392EB0623DAF-1305-0000024DF74F1461.jpg
It drives straight except steering wheel is about 45deg out now. How do I get it back into original hole?

[Gianni]

Shit. Drove car around. After half an hour car shool dramatically. Slowed down and it stopped and didn't do it again. I took it home. All bolts seem ok. But the rear drivers side wheel has oil splatters over it

[Gianni]

Pic of oil leek. It's spin heaps around the guard
http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z323/lxanda/D2EFFD81-352B-4768-975F-9F01B64B05D3-1401-0000025AA70E04EA.jpg

And here is the inside of the wheel
http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z323/lxanda/350859E0-AEBD-460C-978D-4DDF7B14F059-1401-0000025A9BD9EBD7.jpg
It doesn't taste like brake fluid so it must be oil.

All bolts seem nice and tight. But car shook violently left to right.

[Toff]

The 2 extra spaces are for autos. They have an extra skid. I wouldn't be surprised if the knock goes once that track bar bracket is in

Nope those with be bumpstop extensions.

As for the leak - that looks like rear axle seals.

[Gianni]

Rear axel seels. Alright ill get onto that
Got a link to a how to for the seel install?

Any ideas about the shaking?
I drove it to the shops and nothing

[Wooders]

So I put the rear arm bracket on fine. Loosened and wobbled car and tightened. Went to do the front and found the bolt in it had snapped bee places bolt and now no clunking :)
But I couldn't get bolt through original hole. Had to use second hole like this
http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z323/lxanda/384238B6-5F8F-4E70-900C-392EB0623DAF-1305-0000024DF74F1461.jpg
It drives straight except steering wheel is about 45deg out now. How do I get it back into original hole?

The leak is definately the axle seal. You'll need to change the bearing & retainer at the same time.
Once you've relocated the panhard over you need to wind out the draglink (at the adjuster) to suit. This will correct the steering wheel position.
As for the picture - is it my imagination that the new hole looks larger than the original? You want the bracket hole, bush sleeve & bolt to be a nice snug fit.

[Crashman]

The leak is definately the axle seal. You'll need to change the bearing & retainer at the same time.
Once you've relocated the panhard over you need to wind out the draglink (at the adjuster) to suit. This will correct the steering wheel position.
As for the picture - is it my imagination that the new hole looks larger than the original? You want the bracket hole, bush sleeve & bolt to be a nice snug fit.

X2 on that.. Had that a couple of times after shattering the clutch plates in the LSD.

Sent from my GT-I9210T using Tapatalk 2

[Sontssonts]

Nope those with be bumpstop extensions.

As for the leak - that looks like rear axle seals.

Sorry mate, toff is right. Bump stop extensions. I didn't look at your pic:s

[Gianni]

Na the hole is the same size. Ill double check it though:) the hope you can see is the original hole. The bolt is currently through the spare hole from stock.

My main concern ATM is the random shake I got. Felt like something had fallen off and or wheel came loose as car went left to right and left to right violently. I checked everything but nothing has fallen off

[Wooders]

That would be caused by the Panhard/trackbar.
And hence why I would strongly suggest checking the hole.
Also what torque setting did you use?

[Gianni]

Yeah I wiggled the car. The bolt stays centre, but the pan hard moves like the bush is too loose. The bolt is the same size as original. Ill take it off again and see what's up.
At least we know the cause of the shake now :)

[Wooders]

The stock hole is often too big.
Take the panhard out and jiggle to bolt in the hole to see what I mean ;)

[Gianni]

My bolt seems same size as the original bolt. But that didn't look stock. The bush and mount holes are the same so I'm going to find a bolt that matches :) what's the difference between the two holes
I'm thinking the extra spacing (closer one) woul act as an extension like that bracket at the rear

[Wooders]

The drivers side hole was drilled after the installation of a lift kit. Yes same as using drop bracket in rear.
The hole on the passenger side is stock.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk 2

[Gianni]

I think it's fixed. Drove to work down the fwy and it was good :) no shake. No clunking :) thanks everyone :)

[low ranger]

Now to fix the oil leak....

[Gianni]

Yeah about that :p hard job on a TJ? I noticed oil around tc as well. I'm guessing its from the front tail shaft. It's still fairly loose. Plus there is that issue with tc piping out unless its in 2H. I'm thinking tail shaft needs looking at as it is fairly movable

[low ranger]

Did you fit a drop bracket to the transfer case hi-lo range selector mount at the body end? The shaft that runs from the body mount in the gear box tunnel to the bracket on the gearbox/tfer case needs to be as close to horizontal as possible. You need to lower the shaft the same amount you lowered the transfer case to return transfer case operation to normal.

[Gianni]

Na. I haven't done that yet. Getting t/c working for front has been least of my worries :p ill adjust it o we weekend. See if it helps the popping out of gear in 4H and 4L :) but I'm worried about the front tail shaft more than t/c at this point. Very loose feeling. The spline wobbles a lot in the t/c

[low ranger]

It sounds like the output bearing has collapsed (shit itself) in the transfer case. I`d get that looked at quick smart as worn bearings will allow the chain to run loose in the transfer case. Is there metal dust in the oil? There is a magnet in front of the oil pickup strainer that usually catches it. If you drive the TJ daily, remove the front tailshaft until you get the transfer case fixed. That should stop the bearing turning in 2wd.

[Gianni]

Yeah the guy I bought it off just had tc serviced and was told it had a problem.
How do I remove front tail shaft? What's easiest way?
Secondly is it easier to repair tc or put a new one in. What are ruff costs?

[low ranger]

Crawl under the Jeep (if you dont have a hoist) with a 5/16 or 8mm ring spanner & undo the 4 bolts at each end holding the retaining straps to the yokes. Give it a tap to knock it loose & remove it. Get yourself a good workshop manual. Jeeps are quite basic once you know what to do. I got a good 1 on CD off fleabay.
later,
Rick

[Gianni]

Thanks man.
How hard is it to change the output shaft bearing in tc. Does tc drop out seperate to the gearbox?

[low ranger]

Yeah, the transfer case splits from the gearbox easily. But do yourself a favour & get the workshop manual. Only about $10 on fleabay or some of the vendors listed here would also have them. I just installed my SYE & driveshaft combo in an afternoon using my fleabay workshop manual. You will need some specialised tools like snap ring & circlip pliers & an 1 1/8" socket for the flange nuts. The transfer case uses ATF, not gear oil & I used Penrite ATF MHP & $12 per litre.
Cheers,
Rick

[Gianni]

Damn it. I can only find cd's. ha ha. I only have my iPhone. Maybe I can borrow my gf's laptop and print it all out. Feel like e-mailing me a copy. Ooo then I can just view it on my phone.

[low ranger]

You sad bugger. PM me with your postal address & i`ll send you the printed copy I just used fot my transfer case.

[Gianni]

Sent you a pm :)

[low ranger]

Yeah, got it. Posted the transfer case information today.
cheers,
Rick