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jake
16-08-2003, 05:46 PM
What the f...ck is going on, my jeep cherokee sport 1996 4litre select a trac auto wont change into 2nd until approx 3300 rpm. Even then it just slips into 3rd and lumbers along and then it wont go into top gear it just stays in 3rd.
Im using dextron 111 tranny oil, changed every 10,000 km, kick down has been adjusted, I even diconnected it to see if it was the problem, but no it was still the same with it disconnected.
It has been running so smooth up until today, any advise or solutions would be much appreciated as im stumped. :(

Thanks in advance for any help.

P.S- yes oil level is correct.

OzJeeper
16-08-2003, 07:36 PM
Sound like electrics to me. Might be a good thing for a workshop to have a look at.

big red beast
17-08-2003, 09:00 AM
tranny specialist here i come

billsta
17-08-2003, 09:54 AM
crank angle sensor?
worth a look...

jake
17-08-2003, 11:06 AM
where is the crank angle sensor????
I will check it out when I find it. :oops:

Steve
17-08-2003, 11:19 AM
Been through any deep water lately? Maybe disconnect the battery to reset the computer might be worth a try too.

jake
17-08-2003, 12:02 PM
I tried resetting computer.
I was just driving home yesterday, jeep was running perfectly, stopped at a set of lights, excellerated as normal to get going and it wouldnt change into 2nd until 3300 revs. One thing I have noticed is if I use really light throttle (almost idleing) from take off it will change into 2nd at 1500rpm, but if you use any sort of normal throttle it wont change until 3300, its almost like the kick down is staying engaged but when I disconnect it it still does the same thing.
When it does change it goes into 3rd and lumbers along and then it wont go int 4th at all.

Its got me f..cked :)

Dave'n'Wen
17-08-2003, 01:16 PM
Jake, you said the oil is changed every 10k, do you have the filter changed as well? I am not sure but if the filter is blocked, it may reduce the flow of oil to build up pressure.

Just some thing else to check.

jake
17-08-2003, 01:38 PM
I put a new filter on every other change. The level is correct and the oil cooler seems to be doing its job, I just went for a drive, now it seems to be changing ok at 2300rpm but now it misses 2nd and goes straight into 3rd, still no 4th though,
Looks like a shop job, might go to the auto specialist tomorrow.
Seems to erratic to be the trans though, it seems more like electrical ???????

Steve
17-08-2003, 01:52 PM
Can you check the error codes on your XJ? Not sure about the Chero's if turning the Key ON-OFF 5 times displays the codes or not? Anyone know if this works on the older Chero's like it does on older TJ's? Might be worth checking if you haven't already done so.

jake
17-08-2003, 02:21 PM
nope no error codes
just 12 --battery disconnected and 55 -- end of code

I think im stuffed. There goes my hard earned dollars :?

jake
17-08-2003, 08:23 PM
Could any one tell me if this problem could be the TPS (throttle position sensor)

I just did a search and found a similar problem only it was from 2nd to 3rd and someone said it could be the TPS?????????

Nige
17-08-2003, 08:45 PM
Could any one tell me if this problem could be the TPS (throttle position sensor)

I just did a search and found a similar problem only it was from 2nd to 3rd and someone said it could be the TPS?????????

It does sound like the TPS. I don't believe the TPS is adjustable, you just buy a new one$$$, install it and then start the engine, turn it off and then start it again to calibrate it.

Wooders
18-08-2003, 09:56 AM
A faulty TPS should show up on the error codes and I don't think it sounds like the TPS.....
Dexron III? My FSM says Dexron IIE / Mercon. is the recommended fluid.

FSM also says:
Shift points are controlled by the Transmission Control Module (TCM). Before attempting a repair, determine if a malfunction is electrical or mechanical.
The TCM used with the AW4 transmission has a self-diagnostic program compatable with the DRBIII scan tool. The tester will identify faults in the electrical control system.
So I'd suggest unless you can find someone with one of these - you need a transmission specialist to get this diagnosis completed.

Under the problem description "Delayed up-shift or downshift" the possible causes listed were:
Electronic Control Problem - get reader tool
Valve Body Faulty - Repair
Solenoid Faulty - Repair
Shift cable out of adjustment.

This was also fairly consistent with "Converter Clutch doesn't engage 2nd, 3rd or 4th".....
Also double check that you haven't overfilled the transmission as too much fluid will cause foaming - just like too little will.....

Good luck...

Kramer
18-08-2003, 01:03 PM
Jake,

Don't just part with your cash.

Go to a tranny specialist, ask them to diagnose only - pay them a fair labour rate and ask if this can be deducted from the invoice IF you decide to go ahead.

That way if it's something simple like asensor you have the option of doing it urself. I'm not saying that mechanics are rip-offs (my brother is one and he's honest-as) - but you need an OPTION, that's all.

And the mechanic won't feel ripped off because after all you paid an agreed rate.

Sounds like this is your cheapest way out mate.

Kramer.

jake
18-08-2003, 06:32 PM
Thanks for all your input guys.

The jeep is now in the hands of an autotrans specialists.
He couldnt find anything at all wrong, so after a few phone calls to jeep etc he gave me phone call to let me know it could be (more than likely) a blocked valve body.

Removing and rebuilding with kit $300.

Its a bit of a gamble but as he said there is no fault codes and the oil is perfect, no burning or metal particles in it.

I will keep you all informed of the progress.

Thanks again guys

jake
23-08-2003, 08:45 AM
Well I finally got the Jeep back.$1430 lighter in my bank account. :shock:

Problems --- 2 shift solanoids burnt out
--- neutral start switch buggered.


Solution --- no more water crossings for me :evil:


Watch out if you need a neutral start switch $575. Part only!!!!!

Anyway glad to be back on the road. :D

Bogged
26-08-2003, 09:50 AM
OUCH! Glad you finally got it sorted. But at least it's sorted now! $575!!! and no other maker uses the trans either! Bugger me!

(Hopefully) Happy Jeeping!

brizXJ
26-08-2003, 10:59 AM
Jake...any progress with this???

brizXJ
26-08-2003, 11:01 AM
Opps..............OK, I see now....wow $1430!!!!

maddog
26-08-2003, 12:57 PM
A similar thing happened to me in my VT Commodore before I traded it in for the Jeep. The oil pump in the auto slowly died, and everything slowly cooked itself. Had to get a full gearbox rebuild as all the bands were burnt etc. It woul d be nice if there was a transmision temp guage, so you could detect these problems early and get them fixed rather than waiting till the whole lot goes up in smoke.

jake
26-08-2003, 07:49 PM
The Jeep auto is a very strong box according to the automatic tech I went to. Thats why he was looking for other problems rather than mechanical ones. Eventually he found the lockup solanoid to be stuffed which is a bad design , second gear solanoid was burnt out which was just bad luck, and last of all the neutral earth was also burnt out, which was more than likely water.
He replaced the lock up solanoid with a after market one, so hopefully it will be the last of my problems. Second gear solanoid and neutral earth are original parts hence the reason they were f...ckn expensive. :?
It drives perfect now. :D

Tonto
23-09-2003, 08:09 PM
Jake - could you possibly put me onto your auto trans guy?

cheers

jake
24-09-2003, 09:21 AM
Sure can Dave,
DRW automatics
unit 2/34 O`sullivan Beach Road
Londsdale
8326 6969.

I can say he is the best mechanic I have been to. He will answer all your questions and explains every thing to you.

cheers
Jake

Tonto
24-09-2003, 09:53 AM
Thanks Jake, much appreciated.