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View Full Version : Replacing rear pads - issues


Jimmyb
25-10-2003, 09:15 AM
ok i replaced my rear drum linings last night, brake pedal is all good now, only prob is i have adjusted the handbrake up and it still doesnt hold the vehicle. any ideas?

big red beast
25-10-2003, 03:39 PM
i know on the tj's theres a master hand brake setting thingy so you dont have to set em from the brakes (learnt this and found it after i have set mine from the brakes about 3 tiomes and it's never any good) - its prety much directly infront of the rear diff, tight up agianst the bottom of the body - not sure if xj's have this but it would be good to check

Jimmyb
25-10-2003, 06:30 PM
yeah tried that, also cleaned all components and i can tension the handbrake but it wont fully engage.

Saxon
25-10-2003, 07:48 PM
i find when i tighten my tj handbrake it is only good for about three weeks

Jimmyb
25-10-2003, 08:47 PM
yeah worked out the prob, drums are shagged got them adjusted right out and still fubar.

Green Caboose
27-10-2003, 08:45 AM
This is how I screwed mine up, I kept tightening, till I bent the brake shoe in Cairns!!
ARB fixed it for me, new shoes. I was not as smart as you fellas I was just tightening the cable, I really needed to adjust at Drum also. If you have done this, I'm buggered if I know. Get someone who should know to do it, then you can blame them!!! :mrgreen:

AussieCJ7
27-10-2003, 02:12 PM
I have no idea what Suburban did but in the 5 years I have owned my Jeep the hand brake never worked even after so many "experts" adjusting it, until it went to them

Laz
27-10-2003, 04:43 PM
Jimmy B,

Time to get back to basics.

1: Rip of the rear wheels & drums.

2: Have someone pull on the handbrake to make sure that there is movement at the station on both sides.

3: Note the adjuster - it can be access using the proper adjuster tool (looks like a bent double ended screwdriver) or by a regular screwdriver thru the drum backing plate - there is a rubber bung that needs to be removed first.

4: Once youve got the hang of adjusting the rear shoes - put one drum back on and adjust up the drum until it ...JUST... starts to drag when it is rotated (note: be in angel gear -neutral - for the testing)

5: Do the same for the other side - depending on how tight your rear locker is, you may need the opposite drum off in order to get an even loading on the rear shoes. (arb = no issue - traklock = ISSUE)

6: Wheels back on - GENTlY - try the brake performance - if it ok then find some dirt and try to lock up the rear wheels with the handbrake.

Note: Most rear drum brakes will self adjust if you engage them quickly while moving backwards - just don't get too excited as you can get them to almost lock up!

Cheers,

Laz :D
baduglypastworkinginwreckingyard

wrench
29-10-2003, 05:22 PM
Good info Laz.
But I will add 2 tips.
1st - back off handbrake cable adjustment before adjusting brake shoes & re-adjust after shoes are adjusted correctly ( Its amazing how many qualified mechanics fail to do this & only compound the problem ).
2nd- Remember that new linings will not be fully efficient untill they have bedded in & have close to 100% contact with the drums.
HTH.
David

Grant
30-10-2003, 06:33 AM
To re set hand brake while rolling backwards usually take about 5 applications of the hand brake (hold in the release button and pump lever up and down)

wrench
30-10-2003, 10:16 PM
Problem is that some d___head usually adjusts the handbrake cable before they adjust the rear shoes properly. Throws the whole setup out of whack. Self adjusters sometimes work & sometimes dont. When they do they usually only keep the adjustment at the bottom end of the range & not optimum setting. After 20 + years in this industry I am paranoid about handbrakes working properly.
I used to clean & adjust my XJ brakes every 6,000 km when the tyres were rotated & sometimes more frequently.
HTH
David

FredE
31-10-2003, 11:46 PM
wrench made a good point [2] about shoe contact with drun the circumferance of the shoe are the same circumferance as the new drum so if you have your drums machined the shoes will not make full face contact [ but only at each end of shoe] therefor will be less efficient you used to be able to buy oversized shoes[thicker brake material] and when you got the drums machined you also got the brake shoes machined to match this was done if the vehicle had drums all round so all wheels were braking efficiently
Another point that hasn't been mentioned is after fitting drum stamp on brake pedal to centeralise the shoes in the drums so that when you adjust them both shoes contact the drum together Failing that take it a specialist

Laz
02-11-2003, 09:33 PM
Wrench - DOH! -absofirgginlutely

"Backoff the Handbrake cable" - :oops:

My good deed is now being punished with my handbarke needing adjustment :lol: