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View Full Version : Braking upgrades - Thread from JU....


Wooders
17-11-2003, 12:38 PM
SY02 posted the following on JU, and the thread was immediately locked under claim of trolling...However I think there is some healthy discussion points in the idea (right or wrong).....so what's your spin on this:

"OK...for all of those that have "upgraded" their rear brake systems you may wish to chime in on this thread.

First off...you have not increased your vehicles braking ability...you have made your vehicle more dangerous.

Brake systems are engineered so that the front brakes will ALWAYS lock up first - the front brake force will surpass the maximum traction available of the front tires. This is good since when your front brakes lock you simply continue to slide forward in a semi-controlled situation.

What happens if your rear brakes lock first - all hell brakes loose (pun intended!) Think about the instability of the vehicle - all this mass pushing forward on the front tires...the only thing keeping the rear end from trying to swing around and pass the front is the lateral stability provided by the REAR tires since they maintain some traction. The rears break loose and the rear will come right around.

Rear brakes contribute no more than 20-25% of a vehicles total stopping ability anyway. You lift the vehicle and fit larger tires and the contribution of the rear brakes becomes even less. SO ONCE YOU RAISE THE CENTER-OF-GRAVITY YOU SHOULD LESSEN THE REAR BRAKES STOPPING ABILITY TO RETURN SOME BALANCE TO THE BRAKING SYSTEM.

There exists a firm relationship between braking bias (distribution front and rear) and the ratio of wheelbase to height of center-of-gravity (CG). Shorter wheelbase and higher CG equals more front bias - we can all see this can't we? More front bias equals less REAR braking ability. Less rear braking ability equals less rear brake force necessary for the rear tires to surpass the maximum traction available.

I know you guys are all waiting for the numbers so let's rip:

F=uN

F (force required to lock up tire)
u (tire coefficient of friction)
N (weight [normal load] placed on tire)

A stock Jeep has basically a 50/50 static weight distribution. Upon braking the dynamic shift approximates 80/20 with the bias moving forward. OK so far? We will say the Jeep weighs 4000 lbs and the tires are ATs with a rating of .7 for the coefficient of friction.

Stock front brakes
F = .7 * (4000 lbs * .8)
F = 2240 lbs (and the tire locks up!)

Stock rear brakes
F = .7 * (4000 lbs * .2)
F = 560 lbs (and the rear tires lock up - not likely)

Now, let's look at an "average" lifted rig with 4" of lift and 33" tires. The CG has been raised so the braking bias will be increased in the front and reduced in the rear (remember the relationship between the wheelbase and the height of CG?) Still a 50/50 static distribution but...now the dynamic shift is 90/10. And since you are running MTs (with less on road traction) with a rating of .6 for the coefficient of friction you are really hurting:

Stock front brakes on lifted rig
F = .6 * (4000 lbs * .9)
F = 2160 lbs (and the tire locks up!)

Stock rear brakes on lifted rig
F = .6 * (4000 lbs * .1)
F = 240 lbs (and the rear tires lock up - not likely)

You see the force required to break the rear tires loose on the lifted rig (240 lbs.) is nearly half of what the stock rig requires to break loose (560 lbs.) If the stock rear brakes are good enough for 560 lbs. they are good enough for half that!

And some of you consider increasing the ability of the rear brakes on lifted rigs a good thing?
"

Ben
17-11-2003, 02:39 PM
Brake systems are engineered so that the front brakes will ALWAYS lock up first - the front brake force will surpass the maximum traction available of the front tires. This is good since when your front brakes lock you simply continue to slide forward in a semi-controlled situation.

Has he ever locked the front's up? There ain't any control whatsoever - you can yank the wheel which ever way you want, but you're still gonna slide forward!

What happens if your rear brakes lock first - all hell brakes loose (pun intended!)

Crap - unless the back breaks that loose that it starts to overtake the front (in which case drums, discs or other you're stuffed), there's a heap more control available when the back locks up and the front's alright (has he never watched a rally car before? Handbrake turns?

NO brake system is designed to lock-up...lock-up ain't good (hello, why did Mercedes et al spend so many billions of $$$ on ABS systems, designed to NOT let the brakes lock up.

He raises some issues, but I can't see the logic in the arguement whatsoever. Following his rational no one should upgrade brakes (even discs with better calipers, etc would cause problems).

Gojeep
17-11-2003, 03:25 PM
I have always warned against those that take out the O ring from the proportioning valve ( makes it a 50/50 split under all conditions rather than reducing from 50/50 and down the more pressure is applied ) as I found it did cause the rears to lock up first. It then took longer to come to a stop. With the p/valve in place though I have never locked up the rear wheels at all and have better and shorter breaking distances than with the rear drums.
What is not mentioned though is changes in spring rates when lifting are usually higher and reduce the amount of dive and therefore weight transfer. Even the way the control arms are fixed and there lengths etc have a large impact on the anti dive setup and weight transfer. Even COG is different between lifts of the same hieght depending if the transfercase was lowered or not. Shock valving has an influence on the weight transfer with harder valveing reducing the dive. Even tyre pressures make a difference and I could go on.

Way to many factors to make a statement like that. The best test is the end result of before and after a conversion. Mine stops much better and with less pedal effort and more control than before with no fade and that wants counts!

Gordo
17-11-2003, 04:48 PM
Nice formulas Einstein (aka SYO2) -pity it's all BS :p

How can increasing the braking force on ANY vehicle NOT be good thing.

Yeah...right. :roll:

Unproportioned braking systems are dangerous but (4 eg) a properly setup (ie proportined) disc brake setup on a Jeep is a great improvement on the skanky stock rear drums any day of the week.

Maybe this bloke works for a drum machining co. ?? ;)

Jumbo
17-11-2003, 05:44 PM
Anything that increases braking has to be a good thing but it's like everything else I suppopse,you gotta get the job done right.When my rear disc conversion was done a few moons ago we had many discussions on the correct valving to suit the TJ lots of trial and error.Some work great off road, some on road so we ended up with a happy medium...although I can't understand why they wouldn't let me have adjustable bias to play with.. :wink:

Gordo
17-11-2003, 06:00 PM
although I can't understand why they wouldn't let me have adjustable bias to play with..


Can u say "line lock kit ?" :lol:

Jumbo
17-11-2003, 06:57 PM
Now ya talking... :mrgreen:

Deane
17-11-2003, 07:53 PM
Has he ever locked the front's up? There ain't any control whatsoever - you can yank the wheel which ever way you want, but you're still gonna slide forward!

Crap - unless the back breaks that loose that it starts to overtake the front (in which case drums, discs or other you're stuffed), there's a heap more control available when the back locks up and the front's alright (has he never watched a rally car before? Handbrake turns?

I would have to disagree Ben,

When the fronts lock up sure you cannot steer but you continue in a straight line, you don’t severely swerve off course which is what would happen when the rear locks up. The handbrake turns are exactly that, turns. They are expected and help make the back of the car step out, I don’t even know that they use this technique in rallies anymore? Anyway the move is done in a controlled environment buy experts who know exactly what is going to happen.

Anyway that’s my opinion

Cheers

MattW
17-11-2003, 08:46 PM
With the disc brake upgrade it would mean that you should have a working handbrake. Also the brake pads should last longer because there are no drums to fill up with mud and crap.
Also they just look better than drums Bling Bling

Jeff
17-11-2003, 08:56 PM
There are some interesting points from both sides here.

But riddle me this Batman, if upgrading your rear drums to discs is a bad idea, why does the Rubicon come with disc brakes?

Jonesy
17-11-2003, 10:36 PM
I just want to know what trolling is ? :wink:

TJPete
18-11-2003, 04:32 AM
A little information does not mean knowledge. The JU moderator did right to lock the thread.

Wooders
18-11-2003, 07:05 AM
Ok call it a cruel science experiment on my behalf - I just thought I'd see the responses we put down.....
As Pete says a little info does not = knowledge......But it's good to see people THINK about what's presented before them to evaluate if it's right or wrong. Fact is there is a lot of incorrect information on the net (hmmm bit of a tortology this statement).....
Anyways I also thought/believed that when present with dubious statements on this board people would systematically work through whats said & disprove it rather than just talk it down as trash.....
Sometimes just sometimes good ideas come out of challenging the norm - so I think it's very healthy to evluated & discuss the merrits of post like the above....

mattc
18-11-2003, 07:52 AM
Well I agree that you need to keep the brake bias to the front and if you do a rear disc conversion you need to make sure the system is 'balanced' - ie Gordo has rear discs but he did not make clear above that he has also upgraded the front discs.

I upgraded on of my mini's from front drums to Cooper S brakes and at the same time though it would be good to upgrade my rear drum cylinders.....whoaa too much power. Was impossible to stop quickly without locking the rear which is just plain bad if you are not in a straight line. IMHO, handbrake turns should be just that 'handbrake' turns. Anyway went back to the original smaller rear cylinders for a better balance.

I'm interested in rear discs for a better handbrake - but for the $$$ will probably look at a transmission mounted handbrake when I get around to doing a SYE.

Ben
18-11-2003, 08:41 AM
Has he ever locked the front's up? There ain't any control whatsoever - you can yank the wheel which ever way you want, but you're still gonna slide forward!

Crap - unless the back breaks that loose that it starts to overtake the front (in which case drums, discs or other you're stuffed), there's a heap more control available when the back locks up and the front's alright (has he never watched a rally car before? Handbrake turns?

I would have to disagree Ben,

When the fronts lock up sure you cannot steer but you continue in a straight line, you don’t severely swerve off course which is what would happen when the rear locks up. The handbrake turns are exactly that, turns. They are expected and help make the back of the car step out, I don’t even know that they use this technique in rallies anymore? Anyway the move is done in a controlled environment buy experts who know exactly what is going to happen.

Anyway that’s my opinion

Cheers

Yeah, but if you've slammed on your brakes odds are you're about to hit something...and if that's the case I'd prefer to be able to steer around it than keep sliding into it!.

Obviously its not "ideal" to have anything lock up, but if its a choice of front or rear, I'd prefer rear...

Ando_13
18-11-2003, 11:35 AM
Just learn to look ahead, do you think F1 drivers look 50mtrs in front, no way, look ahead further. No use looking at stuff you alread seen!

Does anyone know if the Kaos4x4 Disc brake kit comes with bias adjustment instructions?? or P/valve adjustment???

Gordo
18-11-2003, 11:44 AM
Does anyone know if the Kaos4x4 Disc brake kit comes with bias adjustment instructions?? or P/valve adjustment???


Got one on my 97 TJ - no instructions for bias adjustment. Didn't need to adjust anything, spot on from the word 'go'.

Give Hamish at KAOS4x4 a spam and you can discuss : hamish@kaos4x4.com.au

mattc
18-11-2003, 10:03 PM
Obviously its not "ideal" to have anything lock up, but if its a choice of front or rear, I'd prefer rear...

Well we'l just agree to disagree...whilst maybe while driving in a straight line you could have some steering control with the rear locked, if you consider emergency braking on a curve if the rear locked first I think you would find the rears would quickly become the fronts! If the front locked, sure you will plough straight ahead but thats the direction most of the crumple zones and airbags deploy. I'd rather hit something straight on than sideways.. touch wood.

But yes modulation is they key :)

btw warn me if you ever set your brakes up this way so I can stay clear :mrgreen:

Wooders
19-11-2003, 07:31 AM
Front or rear lockup first - ideally it SHOULD be the front....just....infact I'd prefer all 4 to lockup at the same time becuase then you know that just before lockup you are truely getting maximum braking.....

Ando_13
19-11-2003, 07:39 AM
I'm with Wooders on this. I rolled my Hilux because the rears locked (because they were nacked and grabed) in the wet on a corner.