Removing diff center dana 30

[CheSter]

Howdy,
Need to remove my front diff center... will I need a spreader ? or should it come out ? It's a arb air locker 4.56 ratio'd.

C

[ian]

no need for spreader... make shore you mark your caps so you put them back on the same way. remove axles and 4 bolts

[CheSter]

Thanks Ian.

C

[ian]

also mark the bearing races on the locker (left and right)if you are going to re use them.

[CheSter]

I've got to pull the locker down... somethings awful wrong with it .. so out she comes .. going to see if I can still have it driveable with no axles / front tail shaft / or diff center. That way I'm still at least mobile.

C

[ian]

you will need 2 outer axle stubs they need to be in your hubs... dont drive it witout them.... danger!!

[CheSter]

Good to know...

Perhaps she will stay on the axle stands till I repair the locker.

C

[ian]

not a problem you just need to remove your u joints and refit the outer axles back in to the hubs

[CheSter]

Sweet

C

[RYANGLER]

otherwise the bearing/hub collapses and the wheel falls off or something like that... there was an accident thread not to long ago

[CheSter]

Thanks to a JK owning mate of mine, Matt (who is registered on here although I've no idea of his nic), who rocked around with a shite load of snap-on air tools and compressor .. todays Diff Center removal went really well.

So now my TJ is back to a 2 wheel drive.. no front drive shaft and T shirts occupying the space where my locker once lived.

Appears there is too much play inside the locker and that the front and back spider gears need to be shimmed more to take that out. No excessive wear on any component.

I was shocked to see that everything we pulled out was in good nick cept my rotors .. which were full of mud and in need of a re-machine.

Here's some pics from todays effort.

http://che5ter.com/gallery2/v/4x4/D30PullDown/
^^ complete blow by blow pics .. 40 odd.

My uni's were pretty much hosed .. and took some of the heaviest hitting i've seen to remove a uni. No surpise seeing the age of my truck and it's life to date. Fouros rocked up at this point and was witness to some of the sledging required to remove em.

http://che5ter.com/gallery2/d/5365-1/PIC00020.jpg

This image was taken as I was saying .. is this where the center falls out ?

http://che5ter.com/gallery2/d/5389-2/PIC00028.jpg

Which it did as I put the camera down .. and gladly I caught it before it hit anything.

And finally an exploded view of my locker.

http://che5ter.com/gallery2/d/5425-2/PIC00040.jpg

Going to call ARB and see if they offer a service type thing where I can drop my locker in .. otherwise .. we'll examine re-shiming it our selves.

Thanks again to Matt for the labour / expertise / and stupid amount of tools that he hauled over to my place for the job.

C

[M&M]

no need for spreader... make shore you mark your caps so you put them back on the same way. remove axles and 4 bolts

I sort of disagree.
Whilst it can be done without a spreader, IMHO it is a better way to do the installation as sometimes the centre can be very tight & I' suggest a spreader before a pry bar (which a lot of people use).
Anyhow just my 2 cents....

[Wooders]

Oops sorry that was me - Just realised the missus was logged on.

[CheSter]

On replacement bits ... should I go with the standard spicer uni's or are there an appropriate priced stronger upgrade part ?

C

[BLU-125]

My comments on your other thread refer to the older model locker. Your two piece locker is a LOT more reliable.

ARB parts list available here......yours is an RD100, or similar, depending on ratios & axle spline count. (OE axles are 27 spline)

http://www.arb.com.au/resources/pdf/airLockers/Air_Locker_S&P_Manual.pdf

[burnz]

I'm with M&M, wouldnt consider doing it without a spreader!

[lovemewrangler]

I think Ian was referring to just taking the centre out of the housing, in which case i hope you dont need a spreader cause ive taken mine in and out 3 times without one...

[ian]

I think Ian was referring to just taking the centre out of the housing, in which case i hope you dont need a spreader cause ive taken mine in and out 3 times without one...

correct! that was the question.. Removing diff center dana 30 ;)

[digsy]

I'm no expert but if you can put it back in with no spreader isn't the pre-load none existant - as in no good?

If they fall out that's bad too right? As in set up wrong? From memory they supose to have 15 thou pre-load? Does this mean you should have to pry them out not just drop out?

Just throwing out some questions...

[ian]

you should have to pry out the carrier.. as you said it should have 15thou pre load, refitting the carrier you should spread the housing 15thou and shim you carrier so you need to softly tap it in..than when you undo the spreader you have your preload.. it can be done without a spreader, but would be a pain in the ass.

[CheSter]

Dropped the locker off today, they reckon only 40 odd to service it .. check tollerance's and possible shim it .. so some good news out of this little endeavour.

Hitting Repco up for the other little bits.. brake pads and unis. Quoted 27 odd per uni and 60ish for the pads.

C

[ian]

Dropped the locker off today, they reckon only 40 odd to service it .. check tollerance's and possible shim it .. so some good news out of this little endeavour.

Hitting Repco up for the other little bits.. brake pads and unis. Quoted 27 odd per uni and 60ish for the pads.

C

were did you take it?

[CheSter]

were did you take it?

ARB Coopers Plains .. rang em first sand spoke with a mechanic .. they were quite open to the fact that I just wanted a general service / check of the locker and that I'd be re-fitting it myself ..

C

[BLU-125]

Chester, would appreciate part numbers if Repco is $27 for Unis. You are talking about axle unis?

[CheSter]

Thats what I asked for .. though .. knowing Repco .. it could be for the tail shaft .. guy confirmed they were hardy spicer units..

Will probably know on Monday... anyone got any thoughts on whether uni's for the front / read drive shafts are similar or the same for that matter as the axle uni's ?

C

[rodxj]

Thats what I asked for .. though .. knowing Repco .. it could be for the tail shaft .. guy confirmed they were hardy spicer units..

Will probably know on Monday... anyone got any thoughts on whether uni's for the front / read drive shafts are similar or the same for that matter as the axle uni's ?

C

No mate, the drive shaft uni's are larger than the axle units

[CheSter]

Another update ..

Had some issues sourcing the uni's ... ended up taking my front axle over to hammonds this morning and got 2 uni's for about 70 ish a piece. Repco never returned my call .. and every other supplier either didn't carry it ... had to order it (at incorrect prices - more then likely wrong part) .. or didn't reply.

So ...

MCJK brought over a bead blaster ... and we blasted the axles.. they came up like new .. look awesome. The new unis only needed a light tap with a dead blow hammer .. and we had both installed in about 10 minutes. Unlike the 2 hours to remove em.

Diff center went back in .. in about 5 minutes with a bit of elbow grease .. didn't have a spreader on hand. Also had a lap top on hand so we could ensure everything went back in in the right order.

Took the truck for a quick shake down run .. all good .. feels great .. the new uni's have changed how the steering feels .. which tells me the old ones were completely borked.

Next issue ... drivers side caliper seems like it's toast .. the disc pads are wearing like it's bent ..

It's weird.... on one side the pad is thin at the front edge and thick at the back and it's reversed on the other side .. so it seems the rotor is spinning in a different plane to the caliper.

I've taken some big hits over years .. so I wouldn't be surprised if somethings bent .. so now just need to work out what it is.

Our shake down run had some interest...

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73643&page=5

^^ pics of a sunk patrol we recovered.

C