GOJEEPS Grand Willys Project

[Gojeep]

It's a bit quiet so hopefully you wont mind a little tool update instead?


At the local swap meet I picked up this stake dolly. It was very rusty but some time spent in the citric acid and some sanding brought it back to life. Used some 5mm-3/16" walled angle iron to make a holder for it.


Followed the taper to match the base of the dolly.


I needed a bell mouth to flare the end to fit the hole centre of the Jeep wheel I am using for the base. It is 5mm-3/16" thick and hammered it cold on my old blacksmith anvil I used to have in the back of my truck from my days as a farrier.


Once flared out it fitted well so welded it in.


The base pipe wasn't long enough so found another short piece to add to it and formed it to fit the tapered holder.


Welded the two pieces of pipe together to finish off the stand so far. Holds it nice and firm.


Seeing stake dollies are expensive to buy, set about making some. Had the head of this old Cyclone mash hammer and needed something with a dome.


Using nothing more than a 9" cutoff wheel, cut the taper into it and trimmed the top. Finished it off with grinding and sanding to get this.


Some more stake dollies made. I cut up a Cobblers dolly that I brought home from Warsaw Poland a couple of years ago as a souvenir. As it is cast steel, I welded the 5mm-3/15" plate tapered boxes on to them in quick succession and stacked them on top of each other to slow the cooling rate


Just got given an Australian cobblers anvil this time that was my wifes great grand fathers. I made a template from sheet metal for one side the the taper boxes to suit the stake dolly stand and cut the 4 sides the same. Can see one ready in the background.


Welded the boxes onto the ends and they fit nicely into the stand. Different profiles and lengths, as include the heel, to the Polish one. You can also buy these already with a tapered end and a stand that bolts to your work bench. I have seen Canadian ones that bolt to the floor also with interchangeable heads.


The Polish ones work really well and have different profiles.


Picked these up at a market while out camping a few weeks ago. Altered the bases so they fit the stand.


The more shapes the better and even used a towbar tongue as the flat top and square one end and curved at the other is handy. So is the hole. The odd shaped one is just something I carved out of some 16mm-5/8" plate with my 9" cutoff grinder. Each corner and concave radius is different.

Being by myself all the time when working it is often hard to be holding something and then have to hold a dolly under it while hitting the other side as well. This will make it easier on me.

[anthonygubbin]

Love your work mate... That's some shit hot welding you have done there.

[Gojeep]

Love your work mate... That's some shit hot welding you have done there.

Thanks mate.

Here are more additions to the stand.


I have a T dolly set that I had made and thought I could add it to the stake dolly stand. I cut the sides of all of them to have the same taper as the stake dolly head.


Clamping it to the side the stand I added a off cut to each side.


Added a front face to it as well and then welded it all together.


Made another piece too from the off cut of the towbar tongue. The flat narrow top is handy inside of channels etc.


Came up with with this idea to turn into dollies. These are black pipe bends used in steam pipe installs etc. Bought them all for around $40 AUD from an industrial supply place as was much cheaper than a plumbers supply.


Welded them to more 8mm-5/16" flat that I cut out of my old 8" channel bumper that was on my Willys Truck when I bought it!


I welded them on their side so I could use both the convex and concave sides for forming.


If they need more mass I can fill them with resin or similar.


I decided to make a rack to hold all the T dollies. Also added a couple of holders for the mallets I use the most on there.


Even gave it a paint job! I wont add anymore racks or attachments to it as can then start limiting want I can hang over it without things getting in the way.

[jzp]

You have creative hands and mind. Great effort, will repay itself in no time.

[Gojeep]

Just had a chance to work a bit on this. A bit of tedious work, bit but needs to be done if I want it right.

Want to actually bolt the front part of the door in place so I can set the door gaps before deciding how long it needs to be made.


To find the best hinges I clamped them to the table and pushed hard one way and then setting the square in place. Then pulled away from the square and measured any gap. Got two pairs that were only 1mm to 1.5mm total movement at the far end away from the pivot point.


I had a problem that the front gap, even at maximum adjustment, was too tight as only 1.5mm-1/16" before primers and paints. It is not like a 50's on vehicle where you can move the front guard/fender forward to set the forward edge gap.


Another thing I noticed there were low and high spots stopping the door from being perfectly flush along its entire length.


So I cut all the way down the edge of the panel so I could solve both problems at the same time.


I lifted the low spots until perfectly flush with the door.


Also set the door gap to 3mm-1/8" which is the minimum recommended on bare steel.


Continue to set the gap and make sure it was flush all the way to the top.


Checking for flush after tacking.


Welded it by 'tack stacking' all the way in one hit without stopping. Very little distortion as the HAZ was kept small and even. Let it cool naturally as using a air gun or water only hardens the metal leading to cracking and uneven shrinkage.

[SeaComms]

He's back! Was wondering how long before we got another 'fix'.

Nice work as usual

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

[Tyvokka]

Too much for the senses Marcus. Too many things to admire, my eyes go wonky.

[Gojeep]

Ha ha, thanks guys.

[jzp]

Missed ya mate.

I'm inspired and looking at something old that I can resto-mod. Decision is something ok enough to just tart up or something really old that would be cool. Only thing holding me back on the really old stuff is panel fabrication.

Want something that can I can load my race car on and also tow a tandem with another race car on the back.