Throw out bearings...

[palla]

Clutch thrust or throw out bearing.

This is its purpose in life explained

https://youtu.be/o8SNwgvLpg8

Mine sounds bad, it sounds like a chattering sound coming from the front of the manual gearbox with the clutch out and not in gear.

Here is my Jeep, skip to 10:10 to hear what mine sounds like

https://youtu.be/Zf71CO8345M

And here is the solution breakdown, this guy explains it really very well.

https://youtu.be/Ifx3x_7w5BY

Just thought I'd post this on here for future reference and the benefit of others.

[Banshee]

Clutch thrust or throw out bearing.

This is its purpose in life explained

https://youtu.be/o8SNwgvLpg8

Mine sounds bad, it sounds like a chattering sound coming from the front of the manual gearbox with the clutch out and not in gear.

Here is my Jeep, skip to 10:10 to hear what mine sounds like

https://youtu.be/Zf71CO8345M

And here is the solution breakdown, this guy explains it really very well.

https://youtu.be/Ifx3x_7w5BY

That last one is great! Mine has just started making the creak on depressing the pedal, AND the rattle. Just ~20,000km, (& 3 years), after the clutch & tob replacement.

Looks like I'm up for a ToB, (or maybe just the springs), fork, pivot & shaft. I wonder if I will be able to do it myself this time? The exhaust has been replaced, (one of the cats failed), so disconnecting it won't be an issue now...

Just thought I'd post this on here for future reference and the benefit of others.

[RLT]

Dont want to temp fate, but clutch has been making creaking noises on depression for years so wouldn't worry.
Got over 100K miles on since 2009, a little rattle from the bearing I guess but nothing to warrant a boat load of cash on yet !
I know a couple of Jk's that needed their clutch's done both around the 130 - 140 thousand miles (210,000 KM) but I think they were running 4.10 ratios like mine.

[Banshee]

On Wranglerforum, I think, I saw a thread or two where someone drilled a tactical hole to spray some lubricant onto the pivot with great success.

It's the rattle that had/has me rattled!

[humdingerslammer]

Well, here's the thing.

The first OE clutch on my JKU Rubi went at about 80000km without any warning. I had the flywheel machined and I replaced the clutch with another OE which went at about197000km (so did 117000km) no warning except slipping when a load on clutch (going up a hill). Admittedly I do a lot of towing.

The 3rd clutch is a Centreforce dual friction set up. I changed it at about 197000km but only because I was going outback and did not want to be caught short. It probably would have done another 30000km perhaps. I changed the flywheel at the same time.

The mechanic did not change a leaking rear diff seal at the time when I asked him to and this cost me another $1000 just recently (install only) because oil leaking had become severe. The flywheel and clutch (after 30000km) had no signs of wear.

With each clutch install, I have also changed the throwout bearing and the clutch slave cylinder. Next time I will change the fork and the pivot bolt now that I know they can be responsible for a persistent rattle when clutch is not depressed.This rattle was persistent through the life of Clutch#2 but is no longer there... I think the mechanic knew about how to fit the t/out bearing and its springs.

I cant imagine an OE clutch that has done 150000km and is still going. I have bought all of my clutches (except #2) from Quadratec at a third of the price from the Jeep dealerships here, and that is delivered to my front door within 14 days. Pivot bolts and forks can be bought fairly cheaply here... it costs about $80 just for shipping but the parts are under $15US.

I am very impressed with the Centreforce dual friction clutch and don't know why anyone would use OE for a replacement clutch. I keep one on the shelf at home and I bought it when the Us and our $ were at parity.


Hope this is of interest....

[Banshee]

There certainly wasn't much left on the clutch when it came out, although the PO may have had it done before as well, I suppose. You can't see it well in the pic, but there is only a fraction of a mm left before it gets to the rivets.

Here's the thread I think I was before about lubricating the pivot: https://www.jkowners.com/threads/jk-...outine.342201/

JKOwners, not Wranglerforum after all.

[Banshee]

Well, that didn't last long.

192,000km & the clutch has failed again. It had a slight vibration/pulsation for a while, but the failure was between starting off from the lights, and changing into 2nd.

Felt like there was air in the ling, light pressure & no release. Tried bleeding several times, replaced the slave (again), and the master, no go.

Finally scrounged up the money to get it to the mechanic and had the clutch, (friction & pressure plate), lever, slave, (I blew out the previous one trying to bleed it, somehow), & ToB. Also had the water pump replaced while it was there. It was leaking due to a bad gasket, when then lead to 2 snapped bolts and $2800+ later...

Having looked at what came out, the friction material was 'ok' (given the abuse from a clutch that was no longer disengaging properly), still plenty of material. The Centerforce pressure plate however... Well the plate is, like the friction plate, mostly 'ok', except for where it got partly glazed.



Because of the leaves not being aligned it was not releasing. Thought they bent or something I couldn't see behind them failed. Actually, they were just jammed between the leaves & the housing. After looking at it for a while & got a hammer & prybar & had a go at the weights, the ones that are supposed to help hold it on as the revs rise. I recentered them & the leaves are now all straight, leading to the conclusion that it was the weights themselves becoming uncentered that rooted the clutch. Mechanic replaced it with an Exedy kit. Feels a bit strange at the moment, but I'll get used to it.



As for the weights part of the design, I think I'll throw them into the 'It seemed like a good idea at the time' bin.

[humdingerslammer]

(192,000km & the clutch has failed again. It had a slight vibration/pulsation for a while, but the failure was between starting off from the lights, and changing into 2nd.)

Wow 192000km on a manual clutch... that's amazing. I have best got about 150000km out of mine (changed earlier than this since everything apart for some reason or other and preventative maintenance that prevents me being stranded in the bush. The Wrangler manual 3.8L is well known for rattle that is due to worn pivot bolt and selector gate. Best change them when changing clutch.

I have had 2 DF Centreforce clutches that have not looked anything like the pictures you posted at change over... just worn friction plate etc. Perhaps wasn't aligned properly at instalment.
)
I would send photos to Centreforce (address from its website) sales@centerforce.com to see what they have to say...

[Banshee]

Yeah, might do that. The guy who did it wasn't impressed with the previous job, he mentioned broken connectors & zip ties... It was several years ago, (haven't been driving much lately), but they had it for over a week, he did the clutch and the water pump complete with drilling out broken bolts, in 1-2 days! (11.5hrs labour charge.)

This one lasted 37,000km, was expecting significantly more out of it. (The 192,000 was total, not how far it went, sadly.)

On the plus side, the annoying rattle at idle has gone now, as well!

On the down side, I'm not sure if it is a bit of trapped air, (though it was bled after the install, the way the slave cylinder sits, it can trap air in it), but I liked the feel of the Centerforce more than the Exidy. Though that might be due to it being new, and the flywheel having been machined as well. I'll see how it feels as it wears in.