What are the weak points on the ecodiesel and what are the mods

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  • XJRBOI
    I just registered
    • Jan 2025
    • 3

    What are the weak points on the ecodiesel and what are the mods

    So I used to be on this Forum as doc in the WH section couldn't sign in under my old name so thought new vehicle new name
    I just bought a 1 owner 15 ,model overland with 126 on the clock after a few years out of the fold" tried an Audi Q7 hated it" decided regardless what they say about jeeps the driving position for an old fellow that's 6,3 with injuries you can't beat a GC.

    Rather than go into the history of the WK2 files "yes I'm lazy" I'm asking everyone what do I need to sort out for Longevity

    ​​My om642 in my WH did 750.000 ks I did a provent gde tune open pipe it was a pre dpf model and ran strong till it got totaled

    I of course did many preemptive mods and learned a few bitter lessons along the way as these vehicles and engines where new and unknown back then.

    I believe the ecodiesel has been around long enough for people to have opinions and ideas on fixes and modifications to help longevity.

    I would like all to chime in no idea are crazy if an aftermarket product works I'm okay with it I notice a lot of the CJD product use plastic connections and would like to know which they are and if they can be replaced with metal I know on a recent sojourn into a Dodge Journey I replaced the oil cooler with an aluminium item also the thermostat housing and base again would rather use part that are going to go the distance and from CJD experience that's not necessarily genuine

    Ok nuff said! Bring it on and great to be back
  • LeCheese
    Full Flexer
    • Dec 2011
    • 912

    #2
    Common (preventable) failure points are:
    • a few coolant hoses deep in the valley - if you're handy on the tools, it's possible DIY but a BIG job to take half the engine apart. Specialist job (and non-OEM high-temp silicone replacements) is recommended
    • oil cooler
    • AC condensor
    • alternator (although reported failures seem to have really become few and far between in recent years)
    • Leaky elbow joints at the top of the Quadralift airbags
    • DPFs can clog if not given long runs reasonably frequently - and even then, sometimes there's just failures.
    However, the biggest issue is that these are known to spin bottom end bearings at will and out of the blue. Engine replacement job - not much change from $20k. Working theory from the specialists is an oiling issue at lower RPM - but there really seems to be little rhyme or reason.

    Minimum can be done for prevention apart from using correct oil (5W-40 or some prefer 10W-40 if heavy use), and the working theory from some is to really ensure you aren't letting the engine be under load at low revs - so don't baby it
    Last edited by LeCheese; 1 week ago.
    2015 GC Limited Diesel w/ QL and ORA pack
    Chief recovery points, 22" Stedi lightbar, Catch Can

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    • XJRBOI
      I just registered
      • Jan 2025
      • 3

      #3
      Thanks LeCheese I'd read about the bearing issues sounds similar to the land rover V6 issues.
      ​​​​​
      Being an auto did worry me especially 8 speed lumbering along at low rpm can't be good for the crank.

      As for oil I've used 10w40 in every diesel I've owned.

      I follow a German couple on YouTube called Landrover time and he blames the crank issues on the thin oils and recommends 5w40 or 10w40 .

      I've seen the silicone hose kits already and coolant transfer hose and was wondering is there a special oil cooler part genuine or aftermarket that remedies the cooler issue pn or brand would be nice

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      • LeCheese
        Full Flexer
        • Dec 2011
        • 912

        #4
        Originally posted by XJRBOI View Post
        Thanks LeCheese I'd read about the bearing issues sounds similar to the land rover V6 issues.
        ​​​​
        Being an auto did worry me especially 8 speed lumbering along at low rpm can't be good for the crank.

        As for oil I've used 10w40 in every diesel I've owned.

        I follow a German couple on YouTube called Landrover time and he blames the crank issues on the thin oils and recommends 5w40 or 10w40 .

        I've seen the silicone hose kits already and coolant transfer hose and was wondering is there a special oil cooler part genuine or aftermarket that remedies the cooler issue pn or brand would be nice
        Yeah it seems to only be the years with the 8 speed that have the issues, which is partly why load at low RPM has been proposed as the issue.

        Worth remembering too that tens of thousands of these were sold over the years - although you do hear a bit about it, blown bottom ends are still a minority. In saying that, it doesn't really do too much to reduce the persistent thought in the back of your mind...
        Last edited by LeCheese; 1 week ago.
        2015 GC Limited Diesel w/ QL and ORA pack
        Chief recovery points, 22" Stedi lightbar, Catch Can

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        • drover
          MonsterMoose
          • Apr 2005
          • 9380

          #5
          With a 2015 nearly at 150K km, owned since 40K km, lots of towing I use a 10W40 CK4 oil, replaced the suspension but no real mods done to motor, other than cover thrown in shed and catch can added,as nothing has been an issue, change the Coolant every 2 years so its always sparkly, and with all fluids changed when I bought it , even though it had just had a service, I don't trust stamps in books, I do a 10K km service eng oil, fuel,oil and air filter , with tranny every 40K km.... all DiY, Wesfil filters used, at present Gulf Western oil in engine, Penrite in diffs and this time around it has Nulon in the auto instead of Penrite BMV ............. doesn't do city stuff at all so the DPF, soot oven, never gives any dramas ......... my biggest concern is hose failure but I keep a close eye on them even, use a cam to try and see the valley hose, I have new bits just need the inspiration to do the damn job though .... contrary to what Ive read about the lugging and bearings I have found mine when towing will keep in a lower gear and hangs around 2K rpm and never lugs .......... this box will actually drop a gear just before I would hit the flipper so very pleased with it. first auto Ive ever really liked actually and just holds the temp nicely ... and holds very well going down steep hills..

          I have Alfa OBD to read engine data and it is most informative and not overpriced, reads all the Jeep codes, its allowed me to add gauges for actual coolant temp, oil pressure and intake air temp and some others but they are just bling rubbish.... oil pressur eis the only thing that really worries me as its no all that high unless you have the boot in.

          The biggest problem with 8HP70 auto is the service regime much like the old W5A580,/NAG 1, 100K km till service is the killer of the gearboxes and these ones the procedure must be followed or they won't have the right amount of fluid. in them otherwise its a fantastic gear box ....... If you use a tranny shop make sure they are ZF familiar, BM's in yard etc then less chance of them stuffing up.... DiY is a pain to do.

          Others have gone preemptive with all sort of replacements but I like to wait and see, keep an eye on things, alternator isn't over worked as no extra loads on it other than van fridge and it hardly increases the load on it ..... I do have spare hoses, belt and bits but not genuine, can't see the sense in replacing a faulty item with another actually.

          A check of this site https://www.jeep.com.au/vehicle-recalls.html add your ViN to see whats been done, the 2015s don't have many recalls , I think the W58 and Z46 are must haves, even though I haven't heard a fuel pump fail here in Oz.. only time mine has been to a dealer actually. I don't believe the fuel pump is really an issue here in Australia as our fuel isn't the same as the Yank stuff but dirty fuel or incorrect priming will damage the HP pump .... theres only one way to prime it ....

          BUT if I was buying one with lots of K's on it I would be chucking all fluids, all filters including auto, diffs and TC and having a very close look at all the mongrel hoses if not replacing them ... poor servicing is the biggest cause of problems with these things I reckon and I wouldn't take book stamps as gospel for jobs done................... and a good look over all the usual mounts and joints like any vehicle...
          Last edited by drover; 1 week ago.
          2015 WK2 Laredo(ZG, WG)
          Never too old to learn something stupid

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          • LeCheese
            Full Flexer
            • Dec 2011
            • 912

            #6
            How's the service history on the one you picked up XJRBOI? If there isn't specific mention of the gearbox being done, I'd do it asap. While the ZF boxes are pretty bulletproof - I don't think I've heard of a single failure in the WK2 - the official service interval for them is ~100k (after they changed from 'sealed for life' bs). Likewise the diff and transfer case oils. Being the Overland you've got the ELSD in the rear end, so make sure the correct heavier weight oil with friction modifier is used.
            2015 GC Limited Diesel w/ QL and ORA pack
            Chief recovery points, 22" Stedi lightbar, Catch Can

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            • drover
              MonsterMoose
              • Apr 2005
              • 9380

              #7
              The Alternator fails seems to be the diode plate, diode has a melt down, replacement is available after market and would be an easier spare to carry than a whole lump of metal ... one has been on my list for a few years, still is................ if you run everything on auto and have fridges and extra lights then the 220 amp can get a flogging and doesn't go far, steering on its own when hard worked can demand 85 amps ...

              oil needs to be minimum 40 grade C3/CJ4 ........
              Last edited by drover; 1 week ago.
              2015 WK2 Laredo(ZG, WG)
              Never too old to learn something stupid

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              • Jeeper6
                Lowranger Shocker
                • Aug 2015
                • 1741

                #8
                ...The fellow that did a fair bit of research a while back on VM Diesel bearing failures, found that there were much fewer failures with the 5spd than with the 8 spd. He also noted that there were fewer failures recorded from owners who drove their vehicle "hard". In other words were not afraid to use revs and hold gears rather than let the auto take over.
                Why these diesels fail who really knows. The basic engine design must be pretty good as Banks Engineering used them for their Military engines, which were hammered before selected for use. Obviously many changes would have been made to make them more durable. But, they have all the hallmarks of a very good engine.
                As Drover wrote, clean good quality oil, regular filter replacement, attention to cooling system and fuel system...basics.

                My previous Diesel 2014 WK2 Jeep had 196,000 kms on it when I drowned it, it was running great with zero apparent problems. I had replaced the alternator as a preventative measure, and replaced the oil cooler assy when it failed at 172,000kms...but that was all I had done to it. Service history showed nothing, but parts replacements aren't usually recorded.

                This one, a 2015 has now done 165,000kms. I had the valley hose and rear turbo hose done for good measure a couple of years ago before doing the Lap. Since then a water pump and a water pump bypass pipe is all I have done. Yes, fitted a quality catch can of course, and replaced the plastic Turbo muffler with the Stu Murchison stainless steel job. I'll be getting the Z hose replaced and the EGR hose replaced for preventative measure shortly. I did initially have issues with it imo running too hot, so flushed the cooling system a couple of times, had the software tweaked so the cooling fan comes on when it should, (it was suffering from one of the recall backfires), and also fitted a different thermostat...sorted.

                I always drive mine manually with the flappers, holding gears as I feel necessary. I avoid letting the engine fall under 1500 rpm ever, and won't use 8th gear under 110 kmh...at 115kmh I'll drop in to 8th. it'll be revving at around 2200rpm in 7th at 110kmh, but personally I'd rather that than lugging at 1700rpm. Torque curve begins at 1800rpm. (Never ever go in to 8th when towing or use cruise when towing.) Mine though has a full Chief roof rack, awning, snorkel, winch with an ARB bar, as well as fatter rubber so drag is a fair bit higher hence I like to keep the engine revving. I also use 10w40 Penrite Enviro+ engine oil, CJ/K4 spec and very low ash, changed every 5,000kms or 90 days. Only time will tell whether this one will do the 300,000kms I want it to or not...
                CJ5, CJ7, XJ Sport, WJ HO V8 Overland, WH Hemi V8 Overland, 14 WK2 CRD Laredo-RIP, 15 WK2 CRD Laredo

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                • XJRBOI
                  I just registered
                  • Jan 2025
                  • 3

                  #9
                  Thanks guys it's good to be back in a jeep

                  I picked it up for stupid money with a 1 owner history with just local shops and a couple Kmart ones the stamps are all there but as you say stamps mean nothing.

                  I'd looked at the hoses in the valley and from working on my daughter's dodge journey they use a hell of a lot of plastic fittings at least these have a metal oil cooler housing that's a start unlike the dodge plastic shite.I've replaced every plastic piece on the dodge with aluminium and will be doing the same with this one.

                  For the price ​I got it I've got plenty of room to spend on it I'll also change all the fluids diffs transfer full flush the transmission power steering brakes if the cooling system is anything like the Q7 itl be hideous I've .got some amazing cooling system cleaner left over from the dodge I'll probably do the valley hoses and fittings I've noticed they're all plastic fittings I'm not waiting for those after the problems with the dodge journey

                  I did look at the intercooler piping and thought who designed this. The turbo outlet is on the left of the engine yet the hose goes to the right side of the intercooler and vice versa huge lengths of piping that seems illogical anyway great to be back
                  ​​​​​​

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