2.7 CRD High Pressure Fuel Pump Rebuild
 

My 2004 Laredo keeps draining the fuel out of the lines over night. It's worst when it's cold. I've been looking at o-rings, but then found diesel along the bottom of the pump (described elsewhere in the forums as "sweating." I decided to bite the bullet and rebuild the pump. Replacing the pump was not cost effective (hundreds of dollars and probably over a month to wait for it to ship from Europe to Kyrgyzstan). I opted for a rebuild kit which incidentally is one number different from the number listed in the parts cheat sheet. This one was Bosch F 01M 101 456. It was available from a guy in a shipping container in the local parts bazar for about US$30. I haven't reinstalled the pump yet to verify that everything works, but the pump may not be the ultimate problem, we'll just have to see. I had trouble finding a lot of info beyond replacing the pump so I figured I'd take pictures along the way and post a step by step. Use at your own risk. I'll update as reinstall the pump and find out what works.

First the oops...be careful with the connectors, I broke this one off on the low pressure pump...so much for fiddling with plastic at -5 degrees C.

http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...2-26122345.jpg

Still have to figure out how to rig or replace the connector. It's on the suction side (filter to low pressure pump).

There are three bolts holding the high pressure pump in place. The last can be removed without removing the serpentine belt if you pull the disconnect fuel lines out of the way. After worming the pump out is where this write-up really starts.

Model number on the pump:
http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...2-26160911.jpg

After some experimentation I found it easiest to start with the "heads." (I did take out the three T30 Torx screws that retain the center cam but left the cam in place.) Take the screws out of the head carefully because it's under spring tension, so keep some down pressure. The screws on mine were T40 Torx. I numbered each head and each connection point on the body with a permanent marker. The fuel remnants tended to erase the marker, but I just redid them twice and it wasn't a problem.

Head bolts out:
http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...2-26161720.jpg

After removing the heads, I gently pried out the center cam assembly. I left it intact as the parts were not included in the rebuild kit. There appears to be a spring tensioned oil type seal on the outside. As I said, I did not disassemble it further. Be careful when you remove the assembly as there is a spring loaded piece inside that will launch. Inside the center you will find just the spring loaded assembly and the center piece (can't think of an appropriate name at the moment) which has three flats to interface with the pistons.

The center cam assembly removed:
http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...2-26164901.jpg

The empty body with the center piece with three flats slightly visible above it:
http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...2-26164909.jpg

The spring loaded part:
http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...2-26171912.jpg

Replacing O-rings: I started with the "heads." There are two on one side and one on the other. The one should be attached to the head. The two are buried in a hole on the head. After fishing them out I put the new ones on the post/tube sticking out of the body. The two appeared to be a hard plastic ring on the body side and a softer rubber ring on the head side. My kit came with 6 white teflon rings and 6 coated ones. Originally I though to put a white one and a coated one, but then I realized the rubber one that came out looked more like a crushed o-ring than a harder flat one, so I put a coated rubber o-ring on the head side of each. One of the ones that came out was damaged, maybe that's my problem, but it seemed kind of small.

Showing the two that came out of the whole. Note the single black one on the other "head" in the top left corner:
http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...2-26165431.jpg

The damaged o-ring:
http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...2-26171041.jpg

Stacked up new o-rings:
http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...2-26173147.jpg

In addition to the small o-rings on each side there are two in the center: a large rubber one, and a small metal one. The large one seals the head to the body, and the small one seals the top of the piston assembly into the head.

large rubber and the small metal o-ring:
http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...2-26170409.jpg

I replaced the two green seals on the cam assembly where it connects to the body. Then I put the the assembly back in. Because I don't have the tool to take out inside c-clips, I didn't disassemble the small parts that are behind the spring...I don't think they affect anything that would matter to me (at least let's hope so). I put the spring in then the metal top piece:
http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...2-26171912.jpg

Then I used a straightened out paperclip to keep it in place until I had enough of the cam assembly in to retain it. Don't forget the flat sided center piece that interfaces with the pistons.
http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...2-26172819.jpg

After that the heads go on carefully. Make sure the top piece of the piston/pump fits correctly into the hole with the metal o-ring. Gently place everything into the body and make sure all o-rings are retained and not pinched. Cinch down the bolts and you should be done. Finally replace the o-ring on the outside of the cam assembly where it goes into the engine cover.

Ok, no guarantees on this all because I don't have a manual that explains the procedure well. Hopefully the pictures help someone out. Feel free to add more details below!

http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...2-26174641.jpg

nice pics, I found you need to pull a part the front housing and replace the 2 seals, they groove the shaft, I used different Viton seals so they would seat in a different spot but you need to machine 1mm from the housing

What was the sign that they were leaking in the first place?

I couldn't see anything that looked like diesel or the crud from it building up there, so I didn't want to disturb it and have to spend hours trying to locate the parts in the bazaar. For my future reference, do you have part numbers for what you used?

For the record I've got two jeeps for my tourism company, both 2004 CRDs, so I'm really keen to learn as much as I can. The jeep in question is a Laredo with 109,000 km. The other is an Overland with 195,000 km and it starts just fine. Both arrived here last week from Italy, so I'm getting everything straight with them to start with.

The air was leaking into the system as a result I had a lot of air bubbles in the pipes, so I decided to replace all the o rings and seals and I removed the injector pump and lift pump and found the seals were not in good order, with grooves in the shafts on both pumps.
The lift pump has a 10mm seal and an o ring around the lid which both needed replacing.
There was no smell from diesel or any signs of fuel/dirt

I'll address the lift pump while I have everything out then.

How did you get the shaft and seals out of the high pressure pump? Mine looked like it was peened in place.

It all just slips apart easily, it is only the fuel side that cuts a groove in the shaft, the side that faces the oil stays in good order

This is a good write up will put a link on "Everything 2.7CRD". Uncharted territory for me ryan, thankfully but others are sure to chime in with info. The fuel line clips are very brittle at the best of times and will break easily, I have one that has been just a push on for a few years now with no problems, to date replacement requires the whole line to be replaced though some have machined a new unit.
Ian...............