2.7 CRD High Pressure Fuel Pump Rebuild - AUSJEEPOFFROAD.COM Jeep News Australia and New Zealand


Go Back   AUSJEEPOFFROAD.COM Jeep News Australia and New Zealand > JEEP GARAGE > ZJ WJ WG Grand Cherokee


Portal Register Forums Trading Your Jeep New Garage Mark All Read

Post New Thread  Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 26-12-2013
ryanh1006  ryanh1006 is offline
I just registered
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 22
What Jeep do I drive?: WG
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default 2.7 CRD High Pressure Fuel Pump Rebuild

My 2004 Laredo keeps draining the fuel out of the lines over night. It's worst when it's cold. I've been looking at o-rings, but then found diesel along the bottom of the pump (described elsewhere in the forums as "sweating." I decided to bite the bullet and rebuild the pump. Replacing the pump was not cost effective (hundreds of dollars and probably over a month to wait for it to ship from Europe to Kyrgyzstan). I opted for a rebuild kit which incidentally is one number different from the number listed in the parts cheat sheet. This one was Bosch F 01M 101 456. It was available from a guy in a shipping container in the local parts bazar for about US$30. I haven't reinstalled the pump yet to verify that everything works, but the pump may not be the ultimate problem, we'll just have to see. I had trouble finding a lot of info beyond replacing the pump so I figured I'd take pictures along the way and post a step by step. Use at your own risk. I'll update as reinstall the pump and find out what works.

First the oops...be careful with the connectors, I broke this one off on the low pressure pump...so much for fiddling with plastic at -5 degrees C.



Still have to figure out how to rig or replace the connector. It's on the suction side (filter to low pressure pump).

There are three bolts holding the high pressure pump in place. The last can be removed without removing the serpentine belt if you pull the disconnect fuel lines out of the way. After worming the pump out is where this write-up really starts.

Model number on the pump:


After some experimentation I found it easiest to start with the "heads." (I did take out the three T30 Torx screws that retain the center cam but left the cam in place.) Take the screws out of the head carefully because it's under spring tension, so keep some down pressure. The screws on mine were T40 Torx. I numbered each head and each connection point on the body with a permanent marker. The fuel remnants tended to erase the marker, but I just redid them twice and it wasn't a problem.

Head bolts out:


After removing the heads, I gently pried out the center cam assembly. I left it intact as the parts were not included in the rebuild kit. There appears to be a spring tensioned oil type seal on the outside. As I said, I did not disassemble it further. Be careful when you remove the assembly as there is a spring loaded piece inside that will launch. Inside the center you will find just the spring loaded assembly and the center piece (can't think of an appropriate name at the moment) which has three flats to interface with the pistons.

The center cam assembly removed:


The empty body with the center piece with three flats slightly visible above it:


The spring loaded part:


Replacing O-rings: I started with the "heads." There are two on one side and one on the other. The one should be attached to the head. The two are buried in a hole on the head. After fishing them out I put the new ones on the post/tube sticking out of the body. The two appeared to be a hard plastic ring on the body side and a softer rubber ring on the head side. My kit came with 6 white teflon rings and 6 coated ones. Originally I though to put a white one and a coated one, but then I realized the rubber one that came out looked more like a crushed o-ring than a harder flat one, so I put a coated rubber o-ring on the head side of each. One of the ones that came out was damaged, maybe that's my problem, but it seemed kind of small.

Showing the two that came out of the whole. Note the single black one on the other "head" in the top left corner:


The damaged o-ring:


Stacked up new o-rings:


In addition to the small o-rings on each side there are two in the center: a large rubber one, and a small metal one. The large one seals the head to the body, and the small one seals the top of the piston assembly into the head.

large rubber and the small metal o-ring:


I replaced the two green seals on the cam assembly where it connects to the body. Then I put the the assembly back in. Because I don't have the tool to take out inside c-clips, I didn't disassemble the small parts that are behind the spring...I don't think they affect anything that would matter to me (at least let's hope so). I put the spring in then the metal top piece:


Then I used a straightened out paperclip to keep it in place until I had enough of the cam assembly in to retain it. Don't forget the flat sided center piece that interfaces with the pistons.


After that the heads go on carefully. Make sure the top piece of the piston/pump fits correctly into the hole with the metal o-ring. Gently place everything into the body and make sure all o-rings are retained and not pinched. Cinch down the bolts and you should be done. Finally replace the o-ring on the outside of the cam assembly where it goes into the engine cover.

Ok, no guarantees on this all because I don't have a manual that explains the procedure well. Hopefully the pictures help someone out. Feel free to add more details below!

__________________
Hanging with Kyrgyz nomads
Iron Horse Nomads
2 Jeep GC 2.7 CRDs and a Honda Dominator NX650

Sponsored Posts
  #2  
Old 27-12-2013
piper  piper is offline
Senior Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: sunshine coast
Posts: 90
What Jeep do I drive?: WG
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Default

nice pics, I found you need to pull a part the front housing and replace the 2 seals, they groove the shaft, I used different Viton seals so they would seat in a different spot but you need to machine 1mm from the housing
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	injector pump sharft 006.jpg
Views:	345
Size:	39.2 KB
ID:	65884   Click image for larger version

Name:	injector pump sharft 003.jpg
Views:	618
Size:	37.9 KB
ID:	65885  
  #3  
Old 27-12-2013
ryanh1006  ryanh1006 is offline
I just registered
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 22
What Jeep do I drive?: WG
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by piper View Post
nice pics, I found you need to pull a part the front housing and replace the 2 seals, they groove the shaft, I used different Viton seals so they would seat in a different spot but you need to machine 1mm from the housing
What was the sign that they were leaking in the first place?

I couldn't see anything that looked like diesel or the crud from it building up there, so I didn't want to disturb it and have to spend hours trying to locate the parts in the bazaar. For my future reference, do you have part numbers for what you used?

For the record I've got two jeeps for my tourism company, both 2004 CRDs, so I'm really keen to learn as much as I can. The jeep in question is a Laredo with 109,000 km. The other is an Overland with 195,000 km and it starts just fine. Both arrived here last week from Italy, so I'm getting everything straight with them to start with.
__________________
Hanging with Kyrgyz nomads
Iron Horse Nomads
2 Jeep GC 2.7 CRDs and a Honda Dominator NX650
  #4  
Old 27-12-2013
piper  piper is offline
Senior Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: sunshine coast
Posts: 90
What Jeep do I drive?: WG
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Default

The air was leaking into the system as a result I had a lot of air bubbles in the pipes, so I decided to replace all the o rings and seals and I removed the injector pump and lift pump and found the seals were not in good order, with grooves in the shafts on both pumps.
The lift pump has a 10mm seal and an o ring around the lid which both needed replacing.
There was no smell from diesel or any signs of fuel/dirt
Sponsored Posts
  #5  
Old 27-12-2013
ryanh1006  ryanh1006 is offline
I just registered
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 22
What Jeep do I drive?: WG
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by piper View Post
The air was leaking into the system as a result I had a lot of air bubbles in the pipes, so I decided to replace all the o rings and seals and I removed the injector pump and lift pump and found the seals were not in good order, with grooves in the shafts on both pumps.
The lift pump has a 10mm seal and an o ring around the lid which both needed replacing.
There was no smell from diesel or any signs of fuel/dirt
I'll address the lift pump while I have everything out then.

How did you get the shaft and seals out of the high pressure pump? Mine looked like it was peened in place.
__________________
Hanging with Kyrgyz nomads
Iron Horse Nomads
2 Jeep GC 2.7 CRDs and a Honda Dominator NX650
  #6  
Old 27-12-2013
piper  piper is offline
Senior Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: sunshine coast
Posts: 90
What Jeep do I drive?: WG
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Default

It all just slips apart easily, it is only the fuel side that cuts a groove in the shaft, the side that faces the oil stays in good order
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	pump shaft.jpg
Views:	289
Size:	63.3 KB
ID:	65894   Click image for larger version

Name:	seals shaft.jpg
Views:	329
Size:	72.4 KB
ID:	65895  
Sponsored Posts
  #7  
Old 27-12-2013
drover's Avatar
drover  drover is offline
SwampDigger
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lockyer Valley, QLD
Age: 64
Posts: 3,955
What Jeep do I drive?: WG
Likes: 501
Liked 183 Times in 138 Posts
Default

This is a good write up will put a link on "Everything 2.7CRD". Uncharted territory for me ryan, thankfully but others are sure to chime in with info. The fuel line clips are very brittle at the best of times and will break easily, I have one that has been just a push on for a few years now with no problems, to date replacement requires the whole line to be replaced though some have machined a new unit.
Ian...............
__________________
'04 WG CRD

Your Never Too Old To Learn Something Stupid.

Last edited by drover; 27-12-2013 at 09:51 PM.
  #8  
Old 27-12-2013
Jim_P  Jim_P is offline
I just registered
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 5
What Jeep do I drive?: WJ
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Here's another rebuild post

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/sh...d.php?t=105316

The little metal rings you put in the heads are tapered, they only go in one way, and you should take the circlip out and replace the spring assembly after the main shaft has been reassembled.

Jim
Post New Thread  Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


» Advertisements_AS2




Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3



All times are GMT +10. The time now is 12:52 PM.




AJOR does not vouch for or warrant the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any message, and are not responsible for the contents of any message. The messages express the views of the author of the message, not necessarily the views of AJOR or any entity associated with AJOR, nor should any advice be substituted as technical advice replacing that of a mechanic. You agree, through your use of this service, that you will not use AJOR to post any material which is knowingly false and/or defamatory, inaccurate, abusive, vulgar, hateful, harassing, obscene, profane, sexually oriented, threatening, invasive of a person's privacy, religious, political or otherwise violative of any law. You agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyright is owned by you or by AJOR. The owner, administrators and moderators of AJOR reserve the right to delete any message or members for any or no reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold harmless AJOR, the administrators, moderators, and their agents with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). The use of profile signatures to intentionally mislead or misdirect any member on this forum is not acceptable and may result in your account being suspended. Any trip that is organised through the AJOR forum is participated at your own risk. If you or your vehicle is damaged it is your responsibility, not that of the person that posted the thread, message or topic initiating the trip, nor the organisers of AJOR or moderators of any specific forum. This forum and associated website is the property of AJOR.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

AJOR 2002 - 2018 AUSJEEPOFFROAD.COM. All corporate trademarked names and logos are property of their respective owners. Ausjeepoffroad is in no way associated with DaimlerChrysler Corporation or Fiat Jeep.
www.midlifemate.com wayalife.com jkwrangler.com ausjeepforum.com jk-forum.com canadianjeepoffroad.com cryptoprofitcalculator.net
vB Ad Management by =RedTyger=