Rubicon not all it is made out to be?

[Macca2801]

The Green Superwickin would be effective at seating the "c" clips and dont require dissassembly, hence why its called wick in. Watch out and be sparing, it can wick into more places than you planned!

Just a few drops on the C clip would be a good precaution!

Matt.

[MightyMouse]

Thats precisely whats been discussed in prior posts.... has pro's and con's

[MightyMouse]

Wick in might be fine for the caps - but its a risk if it doesn't work as there's really no way of knowing if its got where it needs to be.

Also the bearing caps are F tight n the yokes ( have you tried to get one in/out? ) they are a tight interference ( press ) fit so wick in just may not be able to get to where its needed.

These are not low stress components, there are significant shock loads applied so IMO any solution needs to be ROBUST and verifiable.

Locktite is a great idea to supplemt a positive solution ( what have you got to loose... if your doing it properly ? ) but without dissassembly personally its not something I would consider fixed properly.

Another disagvantage with any welding ( apart from the obvious heat damage issues ) is the problem of overhaul - unis don't last forever and when they need replacement welding adds an extra challenge. it also makes trackside repair a pita

[MCJK]

Originally Posted by MightyMouse

Another disagvantage with any welding ( apart from the obvious heat damage issues ) is the problem of overhaul - unis don't last forever and when they need replacement welding adds an extra challenge. it also makes trackside repair a pita

Welding is not an issue in that case, you only need maybe 2 spot welds, it is all that is generally needed, this Will make trail repairs difficult, Heat will not be an issue if using a mig and only spots are applied, if the boots are melting or it getting to hot it is obvious you are doing it wrong as you have possibly welded the needle bearings to the cup...... If welding the welds need to be cleaned up or the axle will not fit through the hole in the knuckle for repairs.

[SeaComms]

Personally, I think since the clips are currently just 'clipped' in and many owners have no problems, and the general reason for failure seems to be the clips falling out then the caps working their way out. I think even just loctiting the clips in has to be beneficial without replacement or redesign.

Perhaps even instead of the green loctite pull the clips and put red loctite into the groove then reseat the clip. The red loctite is non wicking (so removal of the clip is required to get it in properly) but is considered permanent - like a superglue for metal. I think this is the next mod for me

[Macca2801]

Originally Posted by SeaComms

Personally, I think since the clips are currently just 'clipped' in and many owners have no problems, and the general reason for failure seems to be the clips falling out then the caps working their way out. I think even just loctiting the clips in has to be beneficial without replacement or redesign.

Perhaps even instead of the green loctite pull the clips and put red loctite into the groove then reseat the clip. The red loctite is non wicking (so removal of the clip is required to get it in properly) but is considered permanent - like a superglue for metal. I think this is the next mod for me

Totally agree Dave, its just a sensible precaution without going overboard.

Just a point, the nut/studlock 222 etc are all anerobic as in they need to be compressed to eliminate the air before they set. The wickin does not require the tightening/clamping to go-off. It does it once it gets into a tight space.

Hence I would stick with the wickin and just a few drops and do it carefully.

Matt.

[MightyMouse]

Originally Posted by MCJK

Welding is not an issue in that case, you only need maybe 2 spot welds, it is all that is generally needed, this Will make trail repairs difficult, Heat will not be an issue if using a mig and only spots are applied, if the boots are melting or it getting to hot it is obvious you are doing it wrong as you have possibly welded the needle bearings to the cup...... If welding the welds need to be cleaned up or the axle will not fit through the hole in the knuckle for repairs.

I agree totally - however TIG was mentioned in a previous post and that does concern me significantly. MIG as suggested is the least worst option.

Howerer IMO welding is the "blue striped apron" solution..... likely to be done by those that can't actually fit full circle circlips ( which isnt that hard IF you know what your doing ) so the level of welding expertiese could be questionable.

Given the level of damage created by this type of failure, i just cant accept anything but DEFINATE fixes... might work just doesn't seem a great idea to me.

I'm running DBOR RCV's and i know its fixed.