Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40
Why would you be replacing the IP because of a leak there?
I would first wipe it dry & make sure its not the supply or return line fittings leaking.
There are 4 fasteners holding the electronic box on, 3 torx & 1 security. There is some sort of gasket (o ring seal?) between it & the IP upper body.
The top part of the IP is held on with 4 fasteners & it looks like it has some sort of gasket as well.
Depending how competent you are, you could just try replacing the gaskets.
That would be much easier/cheaper than changing the IP.
If you can get a good spare IP for under $500, you are doing well. Its only when you need one that the price is high, some may part with them cheaper when they are having a clean out.
Good Luck !!
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it might just be the top seal as they arnt that thick and its a common problem so ive heard,
It is a bosh pump and this is the part number for the full seal kit BOSH No. 2 467 010003. costs $30
i did it myself took about an hour i only done the top seal as that is where it was leaking,
if you choose to DIY:
The only problom doing the work is that one of the four bolts holding the top
has a special head (as Layback mentioned), you can see them when you look at the top of the pump. Suppose to have a proper bosh tool for the job. It shouldn't be a
problem for a workshop though. You will have to replace it with a similar
HT bolt, not mild steel.
Be carefull as there is a govonor valve that is spring loaded, and make sure you mark the cove very well so you know exactly where it goes back, as that top cover adjusts the fuel flow, i didnt know and i spent 2 days getting mine right, it will save you $2000-3000 on a rebuild,
Genuine pumps are $8,200. (that was 2yrs ago)
Moose
