Grand Willys Project

[Gojeep]

Thanks mate on your comment and suggestion.
Once I have written one update, it would take just as long to post that on another than to post a link to a blogging site. Personally prefer to see other peoples photos/comments on the site you are on and often don't bother following a link to another site for a update. Maybe I'm the only one like that?

[JasperJ]

Marcus,
What you've been doing with this build is beyond a normal build, it's automotive art. I subscribed to this thread ages ago because I wanted to see where a project of this magnitude would go and what the finished product will look like.

I doubt there would be many projects featured on the net with the level of attention to detail that you display. You're not restoring an old Jeep and building it with new parts, you're building a new Jeep with old parts. Jeeps, no all brands come off of computer controlled production lines built by robots that have more deviation from chassis to chassis than you have armed with a welder and a press. That shows true ability, and the planning that goes on for this build is staggering. Just apply a little heat here to take some twist out and then two or three months later you fit a bolt that is something like 1 mm out, frankly that bullshit! No one be that good, but then we've all seen the pictures.

I check daily to see if there is an update on here to what you have done. This is easily my favourite thread on here. I think if you only posted in one forum people would come to see the work you are doing, I know I would. Just do it on here. Hey JimmyB probably wouldn't mind the extra traffic either.

All hail Gojeep, King of Fab!

Cheers

Jas

[BENAMON]

I sold my jeep about a year ago, but still frequent the forum - mostly to check on updates to this thread (And also for my love of jeeps, hehe)

[Gojeep]

Wow, don't know how to respond to that, but thanks.

[Gojeep]

Fold has been put in the outside plate. Did the first one cold with just a hammer in the vice, but found it easier to preheat it with a propane torch to do the others.


This is how the original upper control arm mounted. The donor frame kicked inwards a bit at this point and the sides of the frame were not vertical. That is why the gap on the inside of the bracket.


The control arm actually sits on the end of the tube that passed right through the frame to the outside. I want to do the same thing but will use the lower control arm brackets as my frame kicks up too high.


I have cut away the tubing from the bracket as don't need the piece of sheet metal it was attached too. My control arm bracket is twice the thickness of the frame rail that it was originally spot welded too and will weld it directly to it. I left the extra to see if I can bend it out to fill the gap between the bracket and the frame rail.


The fold now has been straightened out just using the two hammers shown and the anvil. Just requires some dressing yet.


The UCA's, (Upper Control Arms) angle inwards at 10 degrees. I made sure the bracket matched the angle and was level the other way.


Here are the upper and lower control arm brackets mocked are into place to check that all lines up before the welding is done. It is crucial that the pinion angle is properly set also. This one is at 6* as it was from the factory and it matches exactly the output flange of the transfercase. Cars are usually around 3* with their drive-line angle with there gear box and pinion angle matching to prevent vibes.


Main plates welded in.

[briteway]

Another awesome installment mate .

[bodgie]

One of these may be a good addition to the toy box, sorry tool box:

http://www.swagoffroad.com/20-TON-Pr...-Kit_p_40.html