Swapping rubicon front locker with rear locker???

[oscar.kruse]

I ve got a 2007 jk 2 dr rubicon. 33 inch tyres and 3 inch lift. I am having a little trouble with my rear locker. It doesn't seem to want to engage. The dash light continues to flash but never stays solid. The front locker also flashes without going solid, but strangely enough the front does lock.

So my question is if its possible to swap the front locker to the rear, and the rear locker to the front???

If anyone has any troubleshooting ideas for the lockers please feel free. But as far as I am concerned, there are no spare parts for the factory lockers, not even the solenoid.

[ozjeepster]

Would be easier to get it checked out rather than swapping crown wheels from each carrier to the other one & setting the preload & backlash up right just find out its stuffed , & that's even if it were possible too swap em which I'm 99.9% sure you can't

[yetiboy01]

Just bypass the computer, use a toggle switch, one side connected to the battery the other to the locker(doesn't matter witch wire on the locker), connect the other wire on the locker to ground & see if it works then, could just be a computer problem, that's how mine is wired up & it never fails to lock or unlock


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[MightyMouse]

Perhaps just jack up the axles one at time, engage the lockers and see if they are in fact working ? The limit switches that provide feedback have to work over quite a small range so its possible for them to be out - especially if its been regeared ( different crownwheel position to stock )

Aftermarket diff covers have also been known to interfere with the factory locker

As Yeti says its a simple 12V system, take the diff covers off, disconnect the plug, apply 12V and you will be able to see the mechanism work ( or not... ).

[Nemesis]

i had this problem, the locker relays hadn't been installed properly and were swinging in the breeze under the battery tray and had got wet and corroded.

[oscar.kruse]

Originally Posted by MightyMouse

Perhaps just jack up the axles one at time, engage the lockers and see if they are in fact working ? The limit switches that provide feedback have to work over quite a small range so its possible for them to be out - especially if its been regeared ( different crownwheel position to stock )

Aftermarket diff covers have also been known to interfere with the factory locker

As Yeti says its a simple 12V system, take the diff covers off, disconnect the plug, apply 12V and you will be able to see the mechanism work ( or not... ).

I have infact had the car up off all four wheels. I hit the rear locker and applied a small force to one tyre and it stopped turning. I also didn't hear anything come from the rear diff, but when I pushed the front locker it made a click sound and locked up. I haven't gone as far as to take the diff covers (teraflex) off yet, but I might have too. I will try putting 12 v and see if makes a noise and locks up.

It still has factory ratio and crown, only aftermarket diff covers.

Thanks for the help so far guys.

[oscar.kruse]

Ok so I am not sure which of the two plugs going into the diff activates the solenoid, but I put the multimeter to both and they are both getting power. One has a constant power, and the other only when I push the switch. I assume that is the one that activates the solenoid.

I would assume that this is the same as putting 12 v direct from the battery...?

I guess the next step would be to open her up and have a look. What sort of diff oils are people using, and what sort of diff cover sealant should i use when putting the diff cover back on.