Wheel alignment specifications

[SeaComms]

I agree with BT - AEV drop brackets improved the ride over bumps as well is increasing my caster from around 3.3° to just under 5°. When it was low I would get bad wobbles when hitting bumps at speed. Now none.

That is of course unless you are a die hard rock crawler, then the 50mm drop in bracket just behind the front wheel will not be in your best interest and adjustable control arms will probably suit you better.

Also the toe in to me is a little high? Stock I thought was 1.5mm +/- 1.5mm (or 0 to 3mm). They show it as 1 to 2mm which is not a lot different, but yours was 3.2 and they increased it to 4.2??

[«-J¡LtêD-»®]

i'll be going with adjustable tits sorry arms, just didn't want to yet as it was driving fine. how much of a difference will toe make as seems to be the only thing that can be adjusted atm? yes toe looks increased but from what i understand one tyre was pointing out the other in seacomms. i need my own wheel aligner to play with.

also $99usd plus shipping for brackets, whats the worse that could happen?

[SeaComms]

Originally Posted by «-J¡LtêD-»®

also $99usd plus shipping for brackets, whats the worse that could happen?

That was my theory, was going to put adjustable arms in but couldn't afford them yet so these were a temp solution. So far still happy enough with the temp solution to stick with it!

yes toe looks increased but from what i understand one tyre was pointing out the other in seacomms. i need my own wheel aligner to play with.

Unfortunately this actually sounds complicated, all it means is the steering wheel was out of alignment - angled off to the left when going in a straight line and would have been rectified by about 1/4 turn of the draglink adjuster. Toe in did not need adjusting.

However to look at it all yourself - first adjust the toe in - simply by measuring the distance between the front and rear of the front wheels and adjust with the tie rod - front needs to be around the 1 to 3 mm mark less (closer) than the rear, then go for a drive and check where the steering wheel is when driving in a straight line. Come back home, park it with the steering wheel in the same position just noted and adjust the draglink til the steering wheel is straight.

Thats it, no fancy equipment required!

[«-J¡LtêD-»®]

cheers seacomms, might give that a try on the weekend. maybe help strapping a straight edge to the tyres? inb4 take them off before driving.

[SeaComms]

Thats exactly how I do mine

[JEEPIN JACK FLASH]

those rancho dampers dont hae the best bushes in them, some say they are too soft,
the other thing I had trouble with was the rancho damper i had would act as though it was cavitating or sucking in air.
this can be easily tested by pushing and pulling the the damper with the shaft pointing down,if faulty you will notice it will have freeplay at s.ome point.
turn it up the other way, shaft up and it will perform as it should.
i sent one back with this fault and recieved a replacement, it too failed this test straight out of the box.
I suspect they are only designed to work with the shaft higher than the body as in a tj, and not suitable for horizontal installation as in the jk.
as above a bit less toe and some aev drop brackets would be a good thing but you say it drove ok untill you trashed the damper.
I dont advocate fixing problems with dampers so the other things need to be addressed too, just sayin I dont have any faith in the rancho dampers

[«-J¡LtêD-»®]

Originally Posted by JEEPIN JACK FLASH

those rancho dampers dont hae the best bushes in them, some say they are too soft,
the other thing I had trouble with was the rancho damper i had would act as though it was cavitating or sucking in air.
this can be easily tested by pushing and pulling the the damper with the shaft pointing down,if faulty you will notice it will have freeplay at s.ome point.
turn it up the other way, shaft up and it will perform as it should.
i sent one back with this fault and recieved a replacement, it too failed this test straight out of the box.
I suspect they are only designed to work with the shaft higher than the body as in a tj, and not suitable for horizontal installation as in the jk.
as above a bit less toe and some aev drop brackets would be a good thing but you say it drove ok untill you trashed the damper.
I dont advocate fixing problems with dampers so the other things need to be addressed too, just sayin I dont have any faith in the rancho dampers

i had to pull the sleeves from the factory damper and fit them to the rancho rubbers and have the body mounted to the bracket and shaft to the tie rod. the rancho felt fine before i fitted it (even tho a temp fix untill i can afford the fox) as with the smashed damper was getting esp, abs, traction goiong berserk. got bad dw today and just confuses me, i know these things i need/should do but nothing has changed apart from the damper with no dramas before. wouldn't of thought it could make this much difference.

really wish clients would pay their bills on time so i can give it to our other friend Bill haha