Whollsee's Auto Trans Rebuild

[whollsee]

Ok …had another good crack at it…settle in!

Some of the sprag rollers and elements


Ends up like this once assembled. A bit of ATF to lube and check function ie. ring, and ultimately rear drum, rotates clockwise but not ccw.


Governor housing/bracket attached.


Got to check for play with this before torque-up but it was nice and tight and alternated stud tightening to avoid warping because the flange has to seal hydraulic channels that serve the governor valve.


Rear servo arm and pin with new o-rings


Arm in place above piston and o-rings on pin lubed. Pin is pushed flush and extension housing, when installed prevents the rear pins from working themselves out


Front servo arm installed. The pin is visible through case.


The front pin is held in place by a grub screw and my old fave “stag” was applied to seal and lock.


Nice! Don’t know why it’s so satisfying using this goop… it just is.


Time for the rear band drum and band to go in..Did the cw ‘v’ ccw sprag test with drum in place - still good.


output shaft. need to lube up new rings visible centre of pic


Shaft in place. Good view of rear band relative to servo arm.


Rear planetary going into drum


Shell with sun gear going in to planets


Front planetary and annulus [i think] ready to ram…


…then there is a circlip to hold all the rear gear train in place. wow just one clip! A washer/bearing then fits [onlyone way] over the end of the output shaft…


So now for the front gear section…the aforementioned tip of the output shaft mates up with the hole in this cap over the base of the rear clutch assembly. You can see the teeth of the clutch plates and I lined them up with a screwdriver to facilitate installation.


…got to lube up and fit new fibre washer on the other side first…


a bit of rotatin’and jiggliin’ involved to seat it all the way as the frictions realign despite me lining them up in advance.


…then front clutch…more rotatin’and jiggliin’ and the whole front gear section floats/wobbles like a beatch until pump installed so had to redo a couple of times to satisfy myself that both clutches were seated correctly. Can see here front clutch drum in place and new pump to housing gasket being laid in.


Lube up those new rings and fibre washer on the oil pump…


Here’s the rig I threw together to hold the case vert and keep pressure off the output shaft so as to ease the front gear section and pump install. Bit like “ker plunk”- for those that remember!


new fibre washers for the pump bolts..


used a pen as a registration pin so gasket didn’t spin. it was the closest thing I could grab. worked but!


t-bar and socket and pump is in…


bottom pin with new o-rings inserted behind the rear band lugs…


did I mention that the front band went in too… trust me…it did. plate inserted between arm and band..notches in on band side.


adjuster screw in on side of case…


and tip slots into band…


and here we are all ready for band adjustment… and the rest of course.


Jeez…full-on post . Sorry for the self-indulgence just got a run on and couldn't help myself. Hope something of interest in there for some. Still a bit to go yet. Good fun but.

[whollsee]

Front and rear bands adjusted as per tsm which means torque up to spec then back off 2 and 4 turns respectively. Worked a bit then some air pressure testing. Re-torque then back off again and lock nuts torqued.


New selector seal installed. Rear band adjuster and lock nut on right.


Installed accumulator piston and spring in cylinder. Cleaned up mating surfaces to make sure of good seal. There are no gaskets between case and valve body. Carefully laid in valve body parking pawl through hole in case and selector barrel lubed to slide easily through new selector seal.


Going for a deep pan [Mopar] so after valve body torque down installed o-ring in extended oil pick up. Kinda obvious in this pic where it will sit.


Installed fresh filter. Here you cans see the difference in bolt length between the mopar kit and shorter oem screws...


Can see how filter sits higher[or lower when upright]. Maybe as a bonus there will be improved filtration/fluid flow - one side of filter usually screwed flush on the valve body. Maybe it's negligible. Last visual check on internals and ready for the pan.


Nice strong Mopar gasket. The accumulator sits under that X on the valve body[centre top]



This is the deep pan. It comes bare metal but I sprayed it with KBS rust seal x 2 then chassis coat x 2. Nice hardy coating..…for a couple of weeks!! Main reason I went for this pan was the drain plug not the depth. A LOT easier to do an ATF change. Depth is a bonus and with tranny cooler planned for down the track should have a much lower running temp. Clearance from other components was an initial concern, namely exhaust and front drive shaft, but sussed it all out and think it will be fine.Don’t think it hangs too low either but that remains to be seen. d300 and plate will still be way lower. as will the engine oil pan.


Part number for kit if anyone is interested. Includes pan, plug, gasket, extended oil pick-up, extended bolts and filter. You still use original dipstick and I’ll have to look up how much extra ATF is required when the day comes to fill her up. Plenty of other brands around, usually alloy, but this was cheapest.


Pan on and looking good.


Another update soon[ish]. Peace.

[GMEMUD]

Brilliant write up, thanks for sharing. I have a 727 that I will have a go at one day.

[whollsee]

Originally Posted by GMEMUD

Brilliant write up, thanks for sharing. I have a 727 that I will have a go at one day.

You gotta give it a go. Not too dissimilar.

[whollsee]

another update…I am going to tryout an aftermarket shifter. Have seen varied reports on them generally but at least I can set it up on the bench first and calibrate it and ensure its all clicking along perfectly. Imagine it would be a bugga of a process on an in-service trans. Anyway more of that down the track…but needed to install a bracket now to hold the shifter cable. It comes with two spacers to clear the pan lip washers and longer pan bolts. All brackets levers etc in the shifter kit come bare so these were coated when I did the pan.


Nearly forgot to install the pressure test plugs correctly. Were just sitting in there loose. All good now.

Neutral safety switch installed. Can see the selector barrel poking through seal.


Selector levers. Kickdown lever is on left. Original shift lever is centre and the replacement from new shifter kit on the right..it’s a bit shorter so hole lines up with the cable bracket.


Levers installed on barrel. So kickdown lever [top], will have a cable feeding in from rear [right of pic] and shift lever will have cable feeding in from front [left of pic] i.e. no linkages.


Here are the pan depths compared. Can also see how that cable bracket sits with trans upright.


Well no more jeep fun for me this year Off to Perth this week to see fam for Christmas. Have a good one!

[whollsee]

Happy New Year! Back at work so what better way to avoid it than fiddle with the cj and post a quickie here?

When I stumbled upon the following link/forum post I realised I had forgotten to put the magnet in the new pan so I’ll do it this evening.

http://www.myjeeprocks.com/forums/sh...ssion-problems

Said magnet and hopefully it still looks this clean after a fair bit trans service time. Judging by the pics in the above post it can be a great diagnostic tool i.e. if your jeep won’t go and the magnet has sprouted metallic fur and the pan is full of metal chunks then you’re ferked [just in case the horrific grinding noise and shuddering stop weren’t clue enough] I imagine on regular fluid changes it would alert you to impending probs as well as keep the inevitable fine debris out of the system. So now the issue is ,or not, with the convenience of a drain plug the pan won’t be pulled as often. Maybe can glue a small magnet to end of plug as well. Anybody think that is worth it or overkill?

[whollsee]

Extension housing…
Dirty old thing!. Pressure test plug there i didn’t notice before. Covered in muck I guess.


Removed Park gear bits and cleaned up.


Gotta find one of these. Did my head in searching for similar by part description then I had the bright idea of using the actual part number on the seal - which you can see here. Chrysler stamped too so mopar and P/N was my first search..specs matched old seal…ordered equivalent skf/cr 19211for 1/4 price of Mopar.


Looking much better. Thorough clean..took a long time…then quick acid etch.


Primed for good measure and base coats then clear coated after this. Couple of 7/16 bolts where the W trans bracket ultimately mounts proved to be very helpful.


Park bits back in.


Checked function/spring integrity. This is how park is engaged… park shaft retracts into main case and fat bit on end pushes this out to engage with the sprocket on output shaft. You really really want it to retract when not in Park.


New seal in place.


Fresh gasket. I like these ones with the handy perf tabs that you tear off when bolted up.


Attached!


Getting very very close now. Gonna set up the new shifter on the bench and get the shifts all calibrated. Also will install kick down cable, dipstick and cooler lines. Then wait for the current trans to come out of the CJ with the donk and grab the torque converter. Working towards 2nd week of Feb to get a tarted up donk [i’ll start a thread on that build soon] and this baby installed. Will I make it?