Stupid sqeeky accessory belt/serptine thing..

[dastrix]

Originally Posted by Auberon

Indeed. It's got to be a fully functional OAD pulley and if its travelled that far it may be the cause. It is driven by the accessory belt in fact it's usually the first pulley you slip the belt off when removing that particular belt and the tension is removed.

Sorry Im confused. So ive replaced the Serpentine tensioner and the belt, what else could it be? The alternator you mean?

[Jeep'ers]

If you used a repo belt they are about 5cm longer than the OEM one.... Ended up getting an OEM one for my kj in the end that sorted the squeak!

[Auberon]

I mean the Overrunning Alternator Decoupler pulley (OAD).
The Over-running mechanism on them goes after about your run-time.
They can be had at (Nuline on ebay or perhaps Littens) for just under 100 AUD.
Must be the proper over-run decoupler pulleys.
It should not be the alternator but you can tell if its the alternator bearings with a mechanics stethoscope or other means.

These alternators tick over really smoothly - no bumps or kicks - should be smooth as - any brown dust around the pulley it is probably shot and needs replacing. Not the whole alternator most likely.
Correct belt should be from memory a Gates K061130 (or equivalent) but check that against RockAuto drill down or something like that.

I REALLY like the Goodyear Gatorback belts. Quiet, strong and flexible and manufacture date on package. You know a fresh serpentine is going in.

[dastrix]

Originally Posted by Auberon

I mean the Overrunning Alternator Decoupler pulley (OAD).
The Over-running mechanism on them goes after about your run-time.
They can be had at (Nuline on ebay or perhaps Littens) for just under 100 AUD.
Must be the proper over-run decoupler pulleys.
It should not be the alternator but you can tell if its the alternator bearings with a mechanics stethoscope or other means.

These alternators tick over really smoothly - no bumps or kicks - should be smooth as - any brown dust around the pulley it is probably shot and needs replacing. Not the whole alternator most likely.
Correct belt should be from memory a Gates K061130 (or equivalent) but check that against RockAuto drill down or something like that.

I REALLY like the Goodyear Gatorback belts. Quiet, strong and flexible and manufacture date on package. You know a fresh serpentine is going in.

I have the goodyear belt.

Cool, so its either the OAD or the Alternator pulley...

[dastrix]

Originally Posted by dastrix

I have the goodyear belt.

Cool, so its either the OAD or the Alternator pulley...

This bad boy?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-C...468042&vxp=mtr

Is there a way to test if mine is dud?

[Auberon]

Mate the OAD is the alternator pulley.
At that distance travelled failure is probably expected. They are said to be good for 100 000 miles so.....you may be getting into the edge of end of life for that part. Who knows when they'll fail.
Off the top of my head, most can manage to do with some of this with some mechanical know-how and even limited kit:
Check # 1:
1 Ensure the engine is off and the belt installed along the correct pathway. KOEO (Key OFF Engine OFF) for safety's sake key out of the ignition is preferred and in your pocket. Just because it is good practice.
2 Pry off the cap with a small screwdriver or suitable pick
3 Insert the proper tool into the shaft and rotate in both directions.
It should move relatively easily in one direction and resist in a springy way in the opposite direction but it should rotate in both directions nevertheless.
In the drive direction, it should move smoothly but hold or resist in a springy way when turned against this direction.
If the shaft spins in both directions with little or no resistance then replacement is required - this is called "free-spin failure", I believe.
There are, of course, has varying degrees of failure
Check #2:
Visual inspection of the engine idling should reveal a pulley and belt both running smoothly - very smoothly with no jumping around when running under.
Check #3:
During free spin failure the drive pulley will rotate but the alternator rotor will not. Total failure is when the charge light is displayed.

If the pulley is the wrong type it will only have a one-way clutch and not operate as a true OAD thereby rotating in one direction only rather than having a springy resistance as indicated above.

Otherwise noise heard with a mechanics stethoscope or screwdriver (as a sound amplifier) at the pulley end of the housing may indicate either a failing bearing or failing OAD. It should be more faint and at the mountings near the block or to the rear if it is the OAD unless that rear bearing is failing.

Listening to a running shaft in this way is dangerous and appropriate CARE must be excercised.
Chirping (minor) of the internal friction mechanism may be heard through the stethoscope when carefully placed on the bearing housing near the output shaft. Care must be taken not to slip here.
Hope that is helpful.
Others may have more.

[dastrix]

Originally Posted by Auberon

Mate the OAD is the alternator pulley.
At that distance travelled failure is probably expected. They are said to be good for 100 000 miles so.....you may be getting into the edge of end of life for that part. Who knows when they'll fail.
Off the top of my head, most can manage to do with some of this with some mechanical know-how and even limited kit:
Check # 1:
1 Ensure the engine is off and the belt installed along the correct pathway. KOEO (Key OFF Engine OFF) for safety's sake key out of the ignition is preferred and in your pocket. Just because it is good practice.
2 Pry off the cap with a small screwdriver or suitable pick
3 Insert the proper tool into the shaft and rotate in both directions.
It should move relatively easily in one direction and resist in a springy way in the opposite direction but it should rotate in both directions nevertheless.
In the drive direction, it should move smoothly but hold or resist in a springy way when turned against this direction.
If the shaft spins in both directions with little or no resistance then replacement is required - this is called "free-spin failure", I believe.
There are, of course, has varying degrees of failure
Check #2:
Visual inspection of the engine idling should reveal a pulley and belt both running smoothly - very smoothly with no jumping around when running under.
Check #3:
During free spin failure the drive pulley will rotate but the alternator rotor will not. Total failure is when the charge light is displayed.

If the pulley is the wrong type it will only have a one-way clutch and not operate as a true OAD thereby rotating in one direction only rather than having a springy resistance as indicated above.

Otherwise noise heard with a mechanics stethoscope or screwdriver (as a sound amplifier) at the pulley end of the housing may indicate either a failing bearing or failing OAD. It should be more faint and at the mountings near the block or to the rear if it is the OAD unless that rear bearing is failing.

Listening to a running shaft in this way is dangerous and appropriate CARE must be excercised.
Chirping (minor) of the internal friction mechanism may be heard through the stethoscope when carefully placed on the bearing housing near the output shaft. Care must be taken not to slip here.
Hope that is helpful.
Others may have more.

Here is the sound clip, you can hear it.

Thanks for the info, ill order the part. Think that is indeed it based on the sound?



http://www.tempfiles.net/download/20...car-sound.html