Only thing with replacing the nut is you need special tools to get the torque settings and also semi dismantling the diff. I had mine done and the bloke marked both the nut and another spot to line up the two when torqueing it back up. Only I don't know if that will work for you Digga considering you have to replace the yoke as well.
Regards A
For the front diff as it's shimmed it's relatively easy to do with the only "special" tool required is a method of holding the yoke still, for this I used a large pipe wrench.....
For the front diff as it's shimmed it's relatively easy to do with the only "special" tool required is a method of holding the yoke still, for this I used a large pipe wrench.....
I could be wrong as I have before but don't you need one of those special torque wrenches to measure the preload? I thought the average torque wrench with the dial at the base like mine couldn't be used and doesn't that torque wrench need to be inch pound? Which IMO is not commonly found in most peoples tool kits. Or do you just torque it up to the correct setting and leave it at that?
Regards A
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Last edited by anthonygubbin; 03-09-2014 at 07:03 PM.
AG don't forget the d30 is shimmed which sets the pre-load, as this has already been set so to change the seal all you need to do is change the seal over and torque up the new nut to the specified torque.
This should be doable without even removing the centre or pinion or even draining the diff oil....
The inch/pound torque wrench is used for measuring pre=load when configuring the shims....
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but don't you need one of those special torque wrenches to measure the preload? I thought the average torque wrench with the dial at the base like mine couldn't be used and doesn't that torque wrench need to be inch pound? Which IMO is not commonly found in most peoples tool kits. Or do you just torque it up to the correct setting and leave it at that? 
