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  #22  
Old 26-12-2011
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Will be keen to see the no drill option. Can get hold of the crimpers as and when.
  #23  
Old 27-12-2011
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While it is a great idea to reduce the capacity of your deep cycle battery to around 40 to 50% for best battery life, which is 12.1 to 12.2 volts, the Waeco battery monitor is of no real use with a low setting of 10.1 volts, medium 11.4 volts & high 11.8 volts, noting a dead flat battery is 11.6 volts.

Reading the state of charge with little more than a volt meter or a multimeter is the easiest solution, however the battery or battery bank must be read at rest, that is letting sit for about four hours.
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  #24  
Old 08-10-2012
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Hi Jasperj,

I see, same but different.

It is a far bit down the track in terms of time for this thread, but in regards to your question on my post in my What have you done to your.. post.

The Smart Pass , while separating the accessories from the battery, as I said basically an expensive cutout, it also boosts the charge to the second or more batteries. While I think more than 20A might be overkill for a ~120AH system, something like humdingerslammer's system would be great for it.

I also like the fact I can attach only one charger to the car and the Smartpass sorts it out for both the starter and secondary battery. The Duel by its self only works that way from solar. But looking at your solar panel, which is the road I want to go down, this might be a moot point!

Anyway its good to see a few of us posting up DC-DC systems for AGM batteries. I believe its the only way to go. Thanks for sharing your lessons.
  #25  
Old 30-05-2016
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thanks Jasper this is exactly the info I was after. how did you mount the batteries in there so if you are in a crash they don't come flying out?
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  #26  
Old 02-06-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunky_wrangler View Post
thanks Jasper this is exactly the info I was after. how did you mount the batteries in there so if you are in a crash they don't come flying out?
It's pretty easy, there is a lip at the front where the seat mounts. This should prevent the battery from coming forward as there is physically not enough space. The battery is restrained though.

To restrain the battery in place is a webbing strap with a cam lock buckle. This fits between the upper and lower seat frames and passes over the top of the battery. The batteries haven't move a bit in the last four and a half years.
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  #27  
Old 06-06-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasperJ View Post
It's pretty easy, there is a lip at the front where the seat mounts. This should prevent the battery from coming forward as there is physically not enough space. The battery is restrained though.

To restrain the battery in place is a webbing strap with a cam lock buckle. This fits between the upper and lower seat frames and passes over the top of the battery. The batteries haven't move a bit in the last four and a half years.
wow much more simple then I had thought. Will see if I can fabricate something nice and strong just for peace of mind.
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