IF you had a choice

[ivorytickler]

& a modest budget:
what model TJ would you recommend as a decent basis for a custom build ?

Yes, pretty well out there given the parameters but given the expertise in here thought it may be of help in this difficult purchase.
Am currently leaning towards a 2001 AMC inline 6 Sahara as a decent enough basic build. Not sure of options on the diffs & all dependent on usage.
We tow a motorcycle trailer, 2 up with spares & gear, nothing heavier.
There is talk over on the US forum of avoiding crack prone heads, years 2000-2001. A factory fault evidently.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMC_straight-6_engine#282

Any thoughts gentlemen (& ladies if there's any female spanners in here ?

We were thinking about a Rubicon-spec Unlimited with a JK-8 kit initially then the misuss mentioned she'd like to do a 'ladies do lunch' thangy with the doors & hood off on straddie so it's a matter of multitasking given the annual rego bill (2 cars & 4 bikes, two of which are registered as solo rides)

[Mace1]

Welcome aboard.

As you can see in the 4 sales, TJ's can vary in price from $5k to $15k.

Personally (and as the owner of an 2000 XJ with a "problem" 0331 Head) I wouldnt exclude them from the mix. If it has a good service record, or if the head has been replaced with a TUPY, the cheaper purchase price of an earlier TJ may be well worth it and allow $$ to be put to other goodies. Many 0331's have done big miles without trouble, but poorly maintained ones can cause grief.

Just remember, you have bought a hobby as well as a mode of transport.

[Redemptioner]

late 99 onwards for a street machine, 97 if it is mainly offroad. You want to get one with A/C and the nobs rather than lever control.

[ivorytickler]

@Mace1, Yes & thanks for the response. Too many hobbies including restos as it is. Mainly motorbikes thank dog. Great shame many owners don't keep receipts, documented history is a real plus if your asking over 10 thou for a soon to be 16 year old jalopy. A cracked cylinder head is often difficult to pick in my experience, compression test is one way & which I can do, but if it's been doctored .... oil film on top radiator water ? (if you can get to it) or tell tale drops on the oil stick when hot. Full RACQ inspection might be worth the money when all is done & dusted.

[Faithy]

I started with a nice clean '03 cos it came with air-lockers, 4.1:1 diff gears, 3.5" lift and 33's. Ended up pretty much getting rid of all of that for a custom build so I now wish I went for a cheaper '97. Seems a waste to be cutting up what was such a clean car.

My advice, if you plan to build it how you want it, get the cheapest straight one you can find. You'd be paying considerably more for one that's new enough to have a TUPY head when you could just buy a newer head or even an alloy head for less than the difference. I just chucked out the TUPY head from my '03 after putting an '06 engine in. Can't be pricey to source one.

[Redemptioner]

Definitely, avoid ARB airlockers and most suspension and steering mods. Faithy is right, if you want a trail rig buy the cheap 97 and spend the money on your own gear, hopefully you can wrench on it yourself and save install costs (youtube is your friend). The only thing I would say you should not do yourself is building the diffs, let someone who really knows what they are doing with building Dana diffs put them in.

The only other thing I would point out is DON'T buy the cheaper replacement item when you start replacing the "jeep" parts, this always ends with you just having to do it later on gain with the better part. You will read this everywhere in regards to jeeps and that is with good reason.

[piggy]

Ive done many hard core comps over what seems a lifetime & the only time you see issues with ARB, TJM, Electric lockers ect is by installation errors or the owner operator has made a poor decision while wheeling. Just remember nothing is unbreakable & if it is unbreakable the issue only gets pushed to the next weakest point.
I had ARB lockers in my comp cars for 8 years on the comp scene, yes I had some issues over time but they usually came down to me being the problem or the next weakest link being the problem eg :- (me) usually airborne pushing too many revs without letting off when you hit hard is a good oops. & weakest point thingies :- diff centers shattering, CV's, axels, drive shafts, uni joints ect ect ect.
On my JK I had TJM Pro lockers & install & user error gave them the same issues.
On my TJ (my fun car) it came with auto lockers front & rear, you have to change your driving habits a little as you cant turn them off with a flick of a switch, I would like to keep the Auto locker in the rear & put an ARB air in the front if I was doing it again.
OH""" & as for the oil that comes up the line in ARB Air lockers that only happens if they have been installed poorley & the "O" ring (olive) is pinched, whitch can be pretty easy to do when your in a hurry.
My TJ is a 2003, & is now nearly completely restored with air con that works & all. I'm just as happy in it doing a run to Choffs as I was with my JK.
It now sits on 33's has a tot of 5" lift, locked front & rear, winch, front & rear bar work, custom tube fat fender flares rear & custom tube fat fender complete guards front, new paint new tops (hard & soft) new air. later mods (years away) will be GU diffs, LS1 & auto n back to 35's.
have fun in your build, & remember quality components cost coin.
cheers piggy.