Serious engine power loss – KJ CRD 2006

[KamJeep]

Hi Auberon,
1. Still waiting for the etecnos to arrive but I did perform a resistance test of the GPs yesterday and they all read 1.5ohms which I understand is normal. So not sure it is GPs now.
2. Yes I have tried recycling key twice. Did that as a first step to make sure GPs are warming up enough.
3. I've had P0299, P0234 and P0201 show up. Mostly P0234 is common for me.
4. Would appreciate help in testing MAP. Is it simple enough to test?
5. Battery is new, bought a yellow top not long ago
6. Yes, I have bled the fuel system during my fuel filter replacement.


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[Auberon]

I haven't forgotten you. Have been penning a process for testing the MAP. Just finished the draft form. Making it as easy to follow as possible in the workshop. I do understand you're having trouble - will re-read and post as soon as I can get to it. It's getting quite complicated as it covers testing wiring from ECM to MAP and internal testing of the MAP for correct resistance / Voltages at respective pins.
I want it to be right for you so I'll just check the process and the numbers.
It's in a different format to the manual - I write what can be complex testing procedures/manuals in an old computer form of IF / Then statements ..... like ...IF this happens then do this.
Will be posted soon as correctly as I can make it.
I know you bled the fuel system but I would suggest you consider re-bleeding as it sounds like she's leaning out.
I use a clear hose on problematic bleeds - I think I posted it up on LOST. I do problematic systems and some seem to have trouble excluding ALL the air with this system even though it is the easiest manual bleed I've ever worked on. It like a brake system bleed into a clear container etc - you can at leats see the bubbles rather than listen for a fusssing sound. It's fairly fool proof. I take it you've considered the quick-connects in the fuel lines.
Cheers
A

[Auberon]

You could try:boost pressure solenoid and bypass see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=70602&p=757348&hilit=boost+solenoid#p757348
This is what I've come up with:
Sounds worse than it is.
To help identify the terminals and pins described at the IAT/ IP/boost or MAP sensor: (I’ll try to use MAP):
When viewed from the inlet with the clip on the top:
#1 should have grey wire with brown trace = sensor ground
#2 should have brown wire with white trace = sensor signal (to ECM)
#3 should have brown wire with yellow trace = sensor intake P sensor 5V supply
#4 should have brown wire with orange trace = intake P sensor signal (should be 5V)
NOTE: Whilst cruising around doing chores the other day I had a thought that this is still s fuel related issue – ie lean mixture given the white smoke and low power state plus the codes.
Testing for High resistance in the sensor input signal circuit:
1 ignition off
2 disconnect MAP sensor harness connector
3 measure resistance of the length of wire from pin # 4 on the boost sensor to terminal (pin # 63) of the ECM. This should be less than 10 ohms.
IF
Greater than 10 ohms
THEN find the short/error in the wire repair and retest.
THEN:
@ Pin #3 of the MAP Measure resistance of boost P 5V supply circuit for high resistance (again greater than 10 ohms)
I’d suggest disconnecting the battery for this to make sure that you can’t short the ECM.
NOTE: TREATMENT FOR P0234 AND P0299 ARE / IS essentially the same.
NEXT TEST IS TO MEASURE BOOST P SIGNAL CIRCUIT VOLTAGE (MAP voltage):
This is pin #4.
Measure V between a good ground and MAP sensor signal Voltage – or Pin #4 to earth.
1 Ignition off
2 Disconnect the ECM harness (do this very carefully ensuring that you keep it moving dead parallel/straight)
3 Connect a jumper wire (one known to be good with ) ohm resistance) from cavity # 30 on the ASD cavity # 87 of the ASD relay connector. These are the normal numbers for all std relays. A piece of copper picture hanging wire x Bunnings would do or alternatively strip off the insulation for some house-type wire - as long as it makes contact in the female parts of the socket.
Turn Ignition on
Measure Voltage between Pin #4 and ground
IF
Voltage is greater than 1.0 V
THEN repair the short you have found.
Reassemble.
THEN:
IF
MAP sensor is shorted to Ground (this is checking for an internal sensor short to ground).
THEN
Measure V between pin #1 and pin #4
(assuming external wiring has been tested and found good (as outlined)):
IF
V is greater than 1.0 V
THEN /AND
IF
Resistance (internal) of the sensor between pin #1 & Pin #4 is less than 10 ohms
THEN replace the sensor

NOTE: At no stage can the ECM be shorted to ground.

With ignition ON
Measure MAP Sensor pin #4 to cavity # 63
IF
Less than 4.85 V
THEN sensor is good
IOF greater than 4.85 V
THEN
NOTES:
Often these codes can be eliminated by just:
• Unplugging and reconnecting the Boost Pressure sensor
and / or
• Unplugging and reconnecting the ECM connecter.
• You may need to verify the ECM but this is unlikely as they are robust little devils.

VALIDATE THE MAP REFERENCE VOLTAGE CIRCUIT OPEN
1 Ignition OFF
2 Disconnect Boost Sensor Harness
3 Ignition ON
4 IF
V between pin #3 and Pin #4 of MAP Greater than 4.9 V
THEN
There is a question about the ECM sensor supply V’s.
5 Ignition OFF
General NOTES:
Can your scan tool measure V at #3 as you can with AE or DRBIII or not.
Also: Do you have an actual Boost Pressure Gauge fitted?

I'm sure the numbers are correct. The process certainly is and simpler than the FS manual.
This is based on the fact that the MAP sensor uses an inversely proportionate resistor - as P increases, the resistance decreases in proportion to increasing temp as opposed to an incandescent light bulb whereby the resistance increases with voltage.
Good luck.

[KamJeep]

Thanks so much Auberon

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[Auberon]

Have you had any luck with sorting it out?

[Persianjeeplover]

Originally Posted by KamJeep

I'm getting this exact same problem and same codes and hoping someone can help with advice. I have removed my hoses with no sign of splits, cleaned my MAP, cleaned MAF, replaced fuel filter, changed boost solenoid. Yet I am still having same problem. I'm namely getting codes
P0201 injector circuit 1
P0299 powertrain
P0234 turbo over boost condition.

I now have pretty much the same problem as KamJeep, except that I do not get any CEL, and all I need to do is to turn off and on again to have it fixed. Also engine starts perfect and runs smooth and perfect and no smoke issues. Did some beach driving last weekend and it sucked as constantly was running out of juice- and had all Japanese owners laugh and feel good for themselves! One other change that is clearly notable is the engine heats up pretty easily and got close to boiling point after few hundred meters of driving on sand( with warning chyme going on, first time ever happened to me in the past 11 yrs, and multiple sand driving in the past), and even when car driving like normal it runs at higher temp than it used to ( temp needle stays in the middle rather than 1/3 it used to).

My MAP sensor was replaced recently and been cleaned, with not much difference.

Anyone having any ideas to help please?