Diesel XJ ASD fuse blows

[Capt. Crunch]

Reuse the old gasket? Wouldn't that just cause unnecessary problems down the track?

Why do you think the gasket is too thin? they came in three variants, 1.41, 1.51 and 1.61 mm depending on your cylinder head protrusion. From memory of your post in the parts sticky you used a 1.41mm?

[layback40]

Originally Posted by Capt. Crunch

Reuse the old gasket? Wouldn't that just cause unnecessary problems down the track?

Why do you think the gasket is too thin? they came in three variants, 1.41, 1.51 and 1.61 mm depending on your cylinder head protrusion. From memory of your post in the parts sticky you used a 1.41mm?

I have used my old gasket & I had my thicknesses mixed up. Mine is the middle one.
If you use Hylomar like I suggested ~ between each layer it will be good.
Are you going to try Chemiweld first?

[Capt. Crunch]

Originally Posted by layback40

I have used my old gasket & I had my thicknesses mixed up. Mine is the middle one.
If you use Hylomar like I suggested ~ between each layer it will be good.
Are you going to try Chemiweld first?

I was contemplating using chemiweld first, but I might as well just pull it apart and have a look. If I want to sell it on after I'd feel like an ass using chemiweld.

I'll start by pulling the water manifold and seeing which of the 4 heads bubble / bubble the most and go from there.

How many rebuilds / head recons have you done so far? this motor seems way too much drama for what it's worth...

[Capt. Crunch]

When i pulled all the heads this weekend I noticed there was coolant all through the intake port on number 4. I couldn't see any cracks on the head face so I'm not sure where the leak is, is it possible to have cracked around the intake port?

[layback40]

Originally Posted by Capt. Crunch

When i pulled all the heads this weekend I noticed there was coolant all through the intake port on number 4. I couldn't see any cracks on the head face so I'm not sure where the leak is, is it possible to have cracked around the intake port?

I purchased a set of second hand heads (not from you) a couple of years ago. One had a pin hole under the inlet valve seat. Was going to get it repaired & then your spares came up.
Its not that hard to leak test. I clamped a couple of pieces of steel with a piece of tube to seal over all but 1 of the coolant holes & then screwed a wheel valve fotting into the other small coolant hole. Then put it in a bucket of water & pressurized the coolant galleries. Normally the coolant leak shows as a white stain, not just coolant every where.
In answe to your previous question, I have had the heads of mine 3 or 4 times. I have learned not to take short cuts with them as they are not forgiving. If it is a pin hole or crack, chemiweld would have probably permanently fixed it. If a pin hole is in the port you may be able to drill & press an aluminum pin into it. Cracks used to be repaired that way.
Sorry but the 4 heads I got from you are all spoken for.

Good Luck

[Capt. Crunch]

Damn that's a shame, I was just about to PM you to ask if you had a single head kicking around still...

I believe the crack / pin hole is upstream of the inlet valve. This explains why hardly any bubbling is noted when just idling from cold but extensive bubbling when accelerating (turbo pressure causing bubbles). I did a CO2 test sat morning with it idling and it hardly picked up anything (no / minimal combustion gases in coolant system). This could also explain the excessive amount of coolant on the valves, letting the car idle (in vacuum) would be sucking coolant through the crack.

I know the method you're describing with the leak test, I was actually just thinking about it at work today that I should have rigged the head up like that before reassembling (had to reassemble for transport and storage purposes).

Might pull the one head this weekend and have a decent look at it if I'm not working. Either pressure test it or dye penetrate if I have some at work.

Irrespective of where the leak is I'm basically at a crossroad. A) just reinstall all as is where is and run chemiweld (most probable option)
B) Source second hand head and do a proper job.
C) Source new head, MTU quoted approx 600 and would have obtain exact price from over east then then order ex Italy.
I see 4x4Point have these heads (advertised as "OEM") for around 400 delivered. Has anyone ordered heads from them?

[rustynuts]

I will have a low KM good running XJ TD engine for sale in maybe a weeks time. I am open to any offers to you forum members.