Which code reader for the 2.7CRD?

[bodgie]

The Donald is as good as anyone to blame, I'd add Boris and few others too.

Look in the chassis book of the manual set, there's a procedure there to check voltages on these lines, may be the easiest way to go.

Jason

[nudibranches]

Originally Posted by Adrian D

It's not difficult. Just get a good ELM327 clone or an original one, buy the WJDiagPro software from PlayStore and DONE.

I spent 40 dollars on the whole deal, clone + software.

We're just beating on a dead horse....that solution works, you can clear codes on all modules, you can see very detailed real-time data, you can test actuators and motors.

Excuse my ignorance on this but:

You need an EML327: would something like this work? https://obd2australia.com.au/product...UaAt9QEALw_wcB

Or can you get something cheaper?

You then download the WJdiag Pro. You need to download it on to an Android device, it won't work on Apple?

You then plug the EML327 into the OBD port, and it will "sync" or whatever with the WJdiag Pro on your device and you're away? It's that simple?

Thanks.

[JeanLuke]

I strongly recommend sticking to the ELM327's recommended by the software developer. Check out their site and follow the recommendation. If you look back in this thread you will see how somebody ignored the advice only to end up buying a recommended adaptor.

In summary, it is simple. Install WJ Diag Pro. Plug in the adaptor. Pair the Bluetooth. Open the program. Play.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

[Adrian D]

It won't work on Apple because the application is built for Android only. ELM327 adapters use an older bluetooth protocol and it's complicated to get an app built for Apple to work on that version.

[nudibranches]

many thanks.

[Reiver]

Pulled the ABS ECU (situated behind the battery on a 2.7 CRD) which involved cutting a chunck off the battery tray to access the bottom two ECU torx bolts because I couldn't get the tray out

Sent off my ECU to ECUTesting who then claimed they couldn't do anything with it because they's never seen one like mine before! It's a 5604 1821 AA which looks identical to the ECU they were showing. Plenty on eBay so got one for £40.

Connected it all up and still got the exact same fault. Incidently, one of the ECU repairers claimed you could drive the car without the ABS ECU fitted - wrong! No wheels speed signals thows a trans fault (which throws a 702 fault so the EML is on) & you've only got limp mode (2nd gear & reverse).

Next I tested both front sensors for resistance - both showed resistance.

Then with ignition on I tested for voltage from the ECU. Left was ok but the right showed none so it looks like Kram1 may well be right.

Following the right speed sensor wire it goes up the back of the engine bay and disappears between the brake servo & the bulkhead. I can't tell if it goes into the car interior or just the bulkhead before it goes across to the left side of the vehicle.

The ABS ECU wiring goes into another ECU at the back left hand corner of the engine bay (looking forward from the drivers seat) and then into the bulkead.

Somewhere the two pairs of wires meet. but where?

[Reiver]

Originally Posted by Kram1

Check the wiring from the wheel as it runs back up over the transmission and over to the controller. It goes through 2 connectors to get there. C106 (2 way) and C107 (6 way) and ends up on pins 19&20 of the "Antilock Brake Controller". Colours are WT and WT/DB

The wire from the wheels speed sensor goes behind the brake servo. I'm waiting for a wiper arm puller to be delivered so I can get inside the bulkhead/firewall area.
From the other end I've found the white/white dark blue trace wires coming out of the ECU. I think they go through into the cabin rather than the bulkhead/firewall. There's a big knot of wires go into the bulkhead low down. I haven't been able to identify my wires as they are so tightly packed.

I have identified a lack of resistance in the right front circuit; the others show a resistance which points to a complete break. I'm also waithing for a new multimeter which can test continuity.

I'd like to find where the connections are for the centre section identified by Kram1. A simple replacement would be better than me trying to splice in a replacement wire (my soldering skills are less than my brain surgery skills)

Do we know where this middle section lives or do we just know of its existance from the wiring diagram?