2003 kJ crd- coolant volume?

[simonr23]

I drained flushed and refilled my coolant today, due to needing to change my thermostat.

I only drained about 7l coolant. It’s meant to hold about 13.5l.
I’ve only been able to fill it with about 7l. I flushed it thoroughly to remove all traces of the old coolant. Then drained the system via the bottom drain plug to be extra sure.

Also I wonder if this new thermostat is a dud, as it flowed water from the get go- both as i flushed water through the system and the top hose gradually heated up while the car sat idling.
The car never got above 1/4. On a 20 degree evening, should it reach operating temp at idle (15mins)

[glend]

Yes it is meant to hold 13 litres. You need to turn the radiator bleed valve at the top of the radiator left side, to break the suction block and allow the old fluid to drain out. I always removed the bottom hose where it returns to the radiator as well as it can trap fluid too..
It does sound like your new thermostat is not working.

[simonr23]

Cheers glend. I’ve been reading through a bunch of your posts- which have helped already.

I think the thermostat is ok, as I’ve been on a few drives now and the temp comes up much faster than before the swap.

I didn’t undo the bleed screw when I drained, but I did drop the bottom hose at the radiator and opened the reservoir lid.

When I flushed it (with thermostat in place- no other way that I can see), could coolant have been flowing through the other tubes that terminate at the thermostat area- rather than through the block, allowing the thermostat to pass fluid?

[Billwill]

I recently replaced the coolant in my 2002 2.5L CRD.

Cracked open the plastic bleed valve on the radiator and pulled off the bottom hose, removed coolant bottle cap....did not touch the Thermostat!

Likewise I only drained about 7 Litres of coolant.
Filled it up with two bottles of 3.78L Mopar Hoat and some clean water.

Do not have any overheating problems at all and it is pretty hot
here where I live in South Africa!

So I have to assume that I have some of the original coolant still in place but definitely have no air-locks anywhere, no problem with heater action and no overheating!

[glend]

Billwill, did you set the heater controls for full hot? This opens up the airlock in the hoses and heater element in the cabin. Some coolant will remain trapped in there if you don't turn the heater on hot.

[simonr23]

revisiting my old thread.

the bleed screw- which way is "normal operation" and which is "bleed mode" as far as clockwise/counter-clockwise goes?

mine only turns 90 degrees and i've gone back and forth so much i dont know which way is 'normal'- or if it matters.

[Billwill]

The Bleed Valve is on the right front of the radiator so as you open the hood and facing the engine it is at your left hand....black plastic facing upwards with a vertical flat plastic section that you can get a Vice Grip or shifting spanner on.

You rotate this anti-clockwise about 90 degrees if I remember correctly until it comes to a stop...do not force it!

Then you have to pull this black plastic piece upwards using a vice grip or pliers...with a bit of maneuvering it should pop off...you will see an O ring on it.

Now with the heater controls set to full heat you can run the engine until no further air comes out..only water...squeeze the hose pipes to get air out.

Push this black plastic stopper back into place and rotate it clockwise a 90 degrees until it comes to a stop.

Only use the correct Redish Mopar anti-freeze or equivalent Red HOAT anti-freeze...the Green stuff turns to porridge!!