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Originally Posted by maddog
Maybe different diffs are in order. There's not much point having mog diffs if you're going to discard the centres and factory lockers.
I don't know that I'd want something much more than 110". 112" would probably be the absolute maximum, but I don't think 2" is going to help the cause that much.
Was just having a look at some pics of the OPW buggy. That looks like it's on mog diffs that have been cut down on one side to make them narrower and offset the centre. It also looks like he's running 3 link with panhard front and rear. I see air locker lines, so I'm assuming he's done something similar to what you've said and is running different centres and ARB lockers.
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Ben,
Pete is running highly modified Hummer portals that are made by Glenn Dobbin.
They do not really have anything common with mogs.
I am not sure the mog diffs are really a good choice for a competition buggie.
They appear to make it very hard to design a buggy with a low centre of gravity.
As mentioned the pinion length is huge compared to dana60's, nissan, toy, etc.
They can be narrowed but really I think they are better suited to a trail buggy.
Not to say they can't be made to work as there are a few buggies in the USA using them as well.
Maybe look at the U1300's but they will need upgrades to be strong enough.
To keep things cheap I would look at nissan or toyota diffs with longfields.
Also keep an eye on CTM as Jack is supposed to be designing and building some cool alloy parts for these diffs soon.
9" diffs can also be built very strong and it is easy to find cheap parts for them as everyone runs them in their hotted up fords/holdens/drag cars etc.
They are not much help with the front diff apart from gears and lockers.
If you want to spend more then you are really looking at Dana60's.
Shane has been trying to sell his for a while and only wanted $2-3k. they are not complete and would need lockers and gears etc.
Alloyusa or Yukon shafts are relatively cheap upgrades. As are CTM's or Superjoints.
If you have the money then definitely go with some HP60's. The front will kill your budget but the rear should not cost too much.
Forget about a 44 front as by the time you have spent all of your money upgrading it to handle 38" tyres and comp work you could of bought a HP60
To save yourself some cash you could try a shaved Corporate 14 bolt rear diff.
The $ are really in the front though
Dana300 is a decent case and is certainly strong with some upgrades.
4:1 gearing may or may not be required depending on the auto.
A second hand atlas would be even better of course and they do come up now and again.
The LT230 rover transfer is popular and can be modified for front digs.
Not sure of the durability of the LT230 but they can found very cheap.
I really don't know anything about the nissan or toy cases.
You could even look into upgrading a dana20 to twin stick and 32 spline output and 3.15 ratios if you want to keep costs down.
They are massively strong and can also be adapted with a klune. Jeep is right hand drop and bronco versions are left hand so you can take your pick.
Autos will come down to budget and also what motor and t-case you are using.
Check on all of the specs at novaks website.
2 speed powerglide
TH350 as it is very short
TH400 is strong as hell but a bit longer
TF999 3 speed from TJ is pretty strong as well
If using the LT230 you could use the rover auto as well
Commodore V6 is a decent option as they are cheap and cheerful.
Supercharging is relatively cheap as well.
You can go the cheap option with a toyota SC14 and some management.
Or castlemaine rod shop makes a kit as I am sure others do as well.
I think I would still prefer a v8 though for the low down torque and the noise.
1UZFE is a cheap optoin with front cuts going for $1500-2500.
You can even get a half cut and use the auto as well.
They are tough with 6 bolt mains and an amazing bottom end.
It is alleged you can stand a 50 cent coin upright on its side on the rocker covers with the motor running and it won't fall over.
They are massively over engineered which is great.
I believe the auto is similar to an AW4, and it bolts up to some toyota transfers.
195kw or so at the flywheel and the aftermarket parts and modifications are only growing as more people swap these into their cars and 4x4's in Aus.
chev350 is very hard to ignore.
Cheap, massive amount of upgrades available, etc.
Run it on straight gas then you don't need to worry about EFI and nasty side angles.
Maybe look at alloy heads to keep the weight low down in the block.
LS1
If you have the money then I would be looking at one of these.
Mafless LS1edit ($1200-1500) and you are looking at close to 300kw at the wheels
As time goes by they are getting cheaper and more plentiful all of the time.
You could use the 3.5 rover v8 as well if you were on a budget.
Have you noticed a budget theme here yet? hehe
It appears if you want to work to a low budget it is hard to look past the rover drivetrain.
Rover 3.5 v8 is alloy and easily upgraded for more power
Rover auto seems to be ok.
Rover LT230 transfer also seems a good candidate.
There must be a reason why the guys from queensland use these drivetrains.
I am not sure they are really strong enough for full on comp work though...
I would look at 17" wheels to keep your options open in the future.
Personally I would choose mechanical double beadlocks like stazworks, or civilian's etc.
42" Iroks have nice dimensions and appear to work very well
39.5" krawlers would be great but no one in Aus has these yet.
Everyone has forgotten about 40" MTR's.
40" Maxxis would be nice
40" Toyo although they are 15" wide
40" procomps - I believe they have a size for 17" rims now
And the list goes on
Choose airshocks for the cost saving over full coilovers.
3 or 4 link with panhard to keep things low
Multiple holes in control arm brackets in order to fine tune suspension geometry
Warn or Ramsey 6000lb front winch
Cut down the drum to size
Supercheap $129 special boat winch for the rear.
Mount battery to rear diff to keep weight down
I could go on and on...but I won't.
I am not even building a buggy but I change my mind all of the time. At each comp you see things that work and others that don't.
I really is a case of setting some sort of budget and functionality requirement and then just working towards it.
Build it as strong as you can according to your budget.
You will never regret spending a little more on strong components that will last.
Maybe we can chat about this around the campfire at TT.
cheers
z
