WJ Noise That's Driving Me Crazy - Help!

[Steve H]

I meant I used the bolts from the original factory fitted shocks to mount the OME's. I just had a look at the original factory shocks and neither the top or bottom mount appears tapered, that's just looking by eye so I could be wrong but it would be a very slight taper if there is one.
I'm keen to hear if changing the bolts fixes the problem or you get to the bottom of it. Let us know how you get on.

[Troutman]

Will do mate, I'll pick up some straight taper bolts tomorrow.

[willys]

If the noise is mostly heard on left hand turns or when the weight is off the wheel and axle then it is similar to my problem. It may be the diff! the hole where the axle goes through the body of the diff or the housing which holds the gears in place seems to wear , this allows the axle to move around in the housing. To test it take the weight off the wheel and see if there is any movement.If you do take the back plate off and see if the axle is moving in the housing.
My Jeep had the noise from when I bought it at 30,000 ks and I could not find it, until my mechanic was checking the Jeep [at a 100,000] before a recent trip to Perth and picked up the movement in the axle.
The cure is to fit a stainless steel sleeve
The cost $1200
Good luck.

[Troutman]

Yeah, not sure I understand exactly what you mean mate, the axle would be supported by a bearing in the housing. I'm not sure why a steel sleeve would be a better idea, but thanks for the input as it's one more thing to check out.

[wildturkey]

When i said M12 x 65mm - that's from memory. Pull one out or measure when you get to the shop.

[Troutman]

Originally Posted by wildturkey

When i said M12 x 65mm - that's from memory. Pull one out or measure when you get to the shop.

Yeah I checked it out this morning mate, M12 bolt but length can be anything between 55 to 70mm or so.

[Troutman]

OK...I replaced the bolts this morning (M12x65mm) and the clunk/noise is gone, the top bolts don't need replacing as they are not tapered anyway like the lower bolts. I guess tapered is the wrong term really as they are "stepped", ie the last 10mm of the bolt just ahead of the bolt head is stepped to a larger diameter than the rest of the shaft which is around 11mm. I imagine having this reduced shaft diameter in the eye of the shockie is what causes the knocking noise. Anyway, a pair of high tensile regular bolts does the job.