Quote:
Originally Posted by ren0vator
Removing the gearbox might be easier option in a fully equipped workshop
but wouldn't be any easier than lying on top of the engine for three hours in your garage.
I removed the bonnet latch and laid a piece chipboard across the top of my engine.
Was way more comfortable. Some of the bolts are very difficult to reach.
Soak them overnight with a good quality lube OR loosen them whilst their hot
(yeah probably not)
Removing the cooling system hoses from around the back of the engine makes a lot more room too.
Also make sure you've got good quality torx sockets
Not a difficult job but physically demanding
Best of luck
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Hey ren0vator thanks for the handly tips definitely helped removing the bonnet and would of help removing the cooling hoses at the rear as I just unbolted the brackets but were still a pain. You will also need 1/2" Imperial socket rather than 13mm otherwise you will stripped the 3 nuts on back of turbo going to exhaust manifold and a 5mm socket to remove these studs and transfer to new turbo. Oh and really skinny sets of arms otherwise you will end up with Scratches all over them like mine. 😉 I did decide to buy a descent torx set after buying the cheapest one off eBay to start with 😂 Lucky a lot of the bolts came undone ok as it appeared the stealership only did the hard to get to ones up finger tight after they change the swirl motor out that sits under the turbo (photo attached for reference) when I first got the WH. Unfortunetly I didn't replace manifold gasket as they all looked ok and now have a turbo squeal when under load. Red Lightning Bolt comes on throwing codes P0299 and P2280 (air leak, low turbo pressure) I'll try problem solve tomorrow otherwise I'll post a video. For people that are interest the turbo can be changed out without dropping gearbox but prelude use correct tooling and take you time if you strip 1 but your screwed!