Changing a serpentine belt on CRD V6

[valpacer]

Yeah im only at 90k but i think the last set of mud has killed my belt. At least the idlers look easy to replace

Dave

[GPCDR]

Originally Posted by multihull

Has anyone changed the serpentine belt on their V6 diesel? My XH Commander has now done 100,000 km, the belt is showing signs of cracks in the rubber and the other week the idler pulley started making noise.

My Commander has just had it's 120,000kms service. I got the old belt as an emergency spare, but looking at it's condition (also with internal face cracking), I think it should have been replaced a while ago.

[multihull]

I change the serpentine belt last night and what a sh@t of a job. I'm now sure Jeeps were designed by people with very thin arms and small hands. I'm bruised and scratched on both arms.
The whole front engine area of the Commander is so tight on room and tricky to get to with many hidden fasteners. Also the instructions have left out all the tricky and important bits.
If you don't have patience, aren't dexterous and inventive DO NOT attempt this job.

I'll do a separate write up but in the mean time see the reason why I started the whole exercise.
One very stuffed and seized idler pulley.

[multihull]

Jeep XH Commander Serpentine Belt replacement procedure
Here are the instructions I have pieced together after replacing the Serpentine belt on my 06 XH Commander. This was done without removing the front grill or radiator. It is a very tricky and frustrating procedure doing it without removing the grill. Patience is required and it will take approximately 3 hours to complete from start to clean up with no instructions. There is very little space between the engine and the radiator so if you’re not dextrous or have large arms you’re better off removing the grill and radiator.
Replacement recommended at every 120km or when excessive wear is apparent as detailed below.
Under normal use, the serpentine drive belt should be inspected at around 80,000 km or after 3-4 years of service. If not replaced at this time, the belt should be checked each additional year or 10,000 km. Under severe and off-road conditions inspect the belt more regularly. When diagnosing serpentine drive belts, small cracks that run across ribbed surface of belt from rib to rib are considered normal. These are not a reason to replace the belt. However, cracks running lengthwise along a rib (not across) are not normal. Any belt with cracks running lengthwise along a rib should be replaced. Also replace the belt if it has excessive wear, frayed cords or severe glazing.
Warning: Spring tensioners should not be disassembled because of high spring tension. The tensioner unit is serviced by replacing with new unit only if faulty, or not retaining proper tension.


1. Alternator
2. Power steering pump pulley
3. Engine belt routing and tensioner release location
4. Crank
5. Tensioner
6.Water Pump
7. Air conditioner
8. Idler pulleys x 2


Belt removal:
CAUTION: DO NOT LET TENSIONER ARM SNAP BACK TO THE FREEARM POSITION, SEVERE DAMAGE MAY OCCUR TO THE TENSIONER. SLOWLY RELAX THE TENSION BACK TO THE STOP POSITION.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
2. 1st remove plastic engine cover. Remove top metal intercooler pipe. 1 x torx bolt (use 8mm socket as substitute) remove small torx screw at front to release and remove the large front connection clip inserted into the pipe so you can then remove this component.

3. Remove front black plastic turbo intercooler connection piece. First place a clean cloth over this components top hole and secured with a strong rubber band to prevent any dirt or contaminates falling inside. This component is held in place by 2 x torx bolts (use 8mm socket as substitute). One on the L/H side at the top and one hidden behind this component, 2/3 the way down the R/H side. This torx bolt angles up at approx. 45 deg. You need to use a socket to release the bolt then unscrewed with a hand driver. This is the tricky bit and very hard to reach and to see.

4. Remove the alloy belt bridge. (I’m not sure what is real name is) this component acts as a bridge around the belt. Remove the 2 torx bolts with an 8mm socket.

5. Now you’re ready to remove the belt. Release the belt tension and remove the belt. Use a 12 point, 17mm socket (1/2" drive) and a long handle with an extra piece of extension pipe for control and leverage to rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner (5) counter clockwise until it contacts its stop. (This is about a ¼ of a turn) A strong pin such as an Allen key can be inserted to hold the tensioner in the removal position but it is extremely hard to find this hole so I just got a second person to carefully hold the socket arm releasing the tension while I removed the belt. WARNING, watch out because this is dangerous and tricky. Remove accessory drive belt. Slowly rotate the belt tensioner clockwise back into its free arm position.
Belt installation:
6. Position the serpentine drive belt around all pulleys except the idler pulley. Rotate the belt tensioner counter clockwise until it contacts its stop position. Route the accessory drive belt around the idler ( and slowly let the belt tensioner rotate into the belt. Make sure the belt is seated correctly onto all pulleys.
To finish off do a reversal of 5 back to 1
Reconnect negative battery cable to battery.

[GPCDR]

multihull,

Great write up, I have just had my 120,000 service done by the dealer (vehicle still under lease) and the belt was changed. I'm not sure if the tensioner was replaced though.

Is it recommended to change the tensioner at each belt change?

[multihull]

(deleted doubled up posting due to server problem.)

[multihull]

From what I've read, no it's not necessary to change it unless it has a fault. My tensioner still had heaps of spring , so much so it's dangerous when changing the belt.
Some of the parts I've named aren't correct but you'll be able to understand what I mean. The plastic intercooler connection part is apparently the Intercooler Resonator. Oh well it would have been great to have a service manual when I did the job but that's why i did the write up to help the next home mechanic.