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  #8  
Old 16-11-2022
JoeTe  JoeTe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adrian D View Post
My replacement Standard Motor Products sensor puked oil within 100km and then started to read 0 oil pressure over 2000 rpm.
I installed a Blueprint brand sensor and it worked well.

Mine Standard motor sensor happen similar. After of 50km sensor was totally dead and when I removed it i found oil inside of connector but while was working my problem with pressure was the same... that sensor is pretty strange and really dont know what is the really problem I know people used blueprint sensor and didnt work good... and in your case work good... anyways I bought a Mopar sensor like I said i think is not the problem but I prefered buy a new one before of take other ways.
  #9  
Old 16-11-2022
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Deezelweazel  Deezelweazel is offline
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That's funny, so the brand is important?

As you can see the connector has three pins available- so it is an active power supplied sensor.
Beside from the critical 85° degree core temperature, which could lead to malfunctions- which is unlikely due to the massive heat transfer brass housing.

I would investigate the power supply to the sensor. It is a simple 5V sensor. So if the pwr supp is faulty, this leads to a shut down. Easy to check: Anything in the range between 0.2V up to 4,5V on the sensor output is fine. The Check gauges indicator comes to on if it is outside the range or pwr sup is out of the specs. So you must check both.

Your giveaway is Quote : "the new sensor is doing the same." So it is the wiring- it is very unlikely that two different sensors have the same problem.
Check the wiring.
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Last edited by Deezelweazel; 16-11-2022 at 08:35 PM.
  #10  
Old 17-11-2022
JoeTe  JoeTe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deezelweazel View Post
That's funny, so the brand is important?

As you can see the connector has three pins available- so it is an active power supplied sensor.
Beside from the critical 85° degree core temperature, which could lead to malfunctions- which is unlikely due to the massive heat transfer brass housing.

I would investigate the power supply to the sensor. It is a simple 5V sensor. So if the pwr supp is faulty, this leads to a shut down. Easy to check: Anything in the range between 0.2V up to 4,5V on the sensor output is fine. The Check gauges indicator comes to on if it is outside the range or pwr sup is out of the specs. So you must check both.

Your giveaway is Quote : "the new sensor is doing the same." So it is the wiring- it is very unlikely that two different sensors have the same problem.
Check the wiring.

Experience say that only work good MOPAR sensor why? I dont know. I know people that buy different brands and dont work good and for general rule everybody with experience say: "Buy Mopar sensor".

Yes probably in my case is not the sensor but anyway before to go others ways I prefer put a new one Mopar.
I was testing voltage with WJDiag and real values and the "problem" is our cluster is not progressive for example when show 0 really is not 0 pressure is about 0,4 bar (and mercedes said you have a problem if is below of 0,4 bar at hot idle) and you can see the gauge at center and show from 1 to 3 bar with very very small difference so the diference between 0 at cluster and very near of center is about 0,4-1 bar range

Values are no exactly but more or less that i saw and i remember
  #11  
Old 18-11-2022
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Deezelweazel  Deezelweazel is offline
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Of course you can buy "whatever blows up your skirt".
I don't give damn about the cluster as long as the reading is delivered correctly to the ECM.
If you play with diag then you also have checked the readings for different pressures, right? It is good to know where the "real electric" setpoints are.

I did install an extra oil pressure gauge for that purpose directly in the engine bay. I like to have accurate readings (Important to me, because I have installed some critical goodies.)
Oil pressure is something you do not fool around with. Have in mind the Jeep was sold for the US market in general(The CRD has just been an european demand). You can play also with Oil viscosity to bump your pressure a bit. An 50 grade oil should give you about half a bar of pressure extra. If not, wear has taken its toll.
Mileage is also important. When you post such a problem it is a good help to let the folks know about that. Also Oil grade plays an important role. When I go fast My Oil temp rises significantly, so the pressure does drop a lot. It's time to step down a bit, if too low.

Sensor wise it is smart not to buy ChingChong. It should be manufactured To OE specs. Mopar is not manufacturing exclusively for Jeep- They do buy whatever fulfills the specs. BUT- they do love to charge an arm and leg for their "quality". It's not worth it.

If you are worried about oil pressure:
Get a tee adapter and install a pressure switch-giving you independently an alarm.
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Last edited by Deezelweazel; 18-11-2022 at 05:48 PM.
  #12  
Old 18-11-2022
JoeTe  JoeTe is offline
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Just I received my new sensor mopar and was pretty strange! I put the ignition and with stop engine the pressure gauge go to middle and was moving a little up and down but around middle section... (I thinked another sensor broke and everyone doing diferents thing so is not wire...) but I started and gauge continues in the middle (so OK) and now when I put ignition like is normal sensor keep in 0 pressure and when is running go to middle perfectly... so now is running looks is running ok and i just need to see if with car when is hot idle fall down but I see the needle more stable so probably work good now... or I hope that

But Is very strange the first start was like self-calibrating? maybe some vasiline or similar inside of pressure sensor (i think although have some inside never should give you 3 bar with 0 pressure!)

About Deezelweazel really i dont care oil pressure but when in the cluster show check gauges because fall down continues and the sound is a little bit annoyed and really although normally is sensor fault you always have uncertainty if really dont have pressure... my car only have 210000km so is not too much! Was interesting that you put a picture of your car with your manual gauge oil pressure mod =)

About gauge i was with wjdiag checking as well and like I said it is in the middle between 1.5 to 3 bar (little bit down little bit up but middle) I guess they did in this way for you see always the needle in the middle like "MIDDLE YOUR CAR IS OK" not middle your car is broke so from 0.4 to 1.5 like i said needle have a lot movement but the difference of pressure is not too much.
  #13  
Old 19-11-2022
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Deezelweazel  Deezelweazel is offline
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Check your wiring.
At least ( with „ignition“ on) you need to read +5V, and 0V against ground.
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  #14  
Old 19-11-2022
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The upload of pictures has been blocked from AJOR in my side of the world.

The sensor I do use offers both: pressure sensing and an included switch.
The switch is safety, it shuts down fuel supply, when the lower limit of 0.5 bar is reached. I do use a late generation of oil pressure gauge. It can give me an early warning.
High load and low oil pressure will destroy bearings easily.

I also don‘t like to share pictures and knowledge anymore.Way too many copycats.
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