XJ Transmission Oil Coolers

[junglejuice]

Originally Posted by BS!

I've had my B&M on for a week now. Was a fairly easy install in the end. I bypassed the radiator and have yet to see temps over 70 celsisus (in sump temp sensor) this includes around town, highway and sitting in heavy peak hour traffic. The real test will be next week when I go to Fraser for the week

Serviced cooling system while i was at it and haven't seen any increase in cooling system temp either. I'm running adrad radiator and original fan setup all in good nick.

bought my cooler from rocket for $105 to my door.

Any pics of your install?

[carvesdodo]

Originally Posted by ChrisXJ

Hey Carves.
Any updates and Pics on your PWR Oil Cooler setup.

Nope .... been lazy ....

It and all the other bits I want to play with are sitting on a shelf waiting till the new shed and slab get done.

[Deezelweazel]

Originally Posted by carvesdodo

There is thought that pushing the oil up through the cooler is beneficial tho.

Where does that thought come from?
Working against the gravity has no benefits. With the exception of an upside down mounted cooler. It is much easier to drain and to replace the fluid.
I wouldn't be worried about dirt in the cooler. ATF has exceptional cleaning abilities and all contaminats will be flushed out.

Use rubber insulated mounting studs, please.
The pure mounting of an oil cooler without isnsulating can cause hair cracks caused by bending or heat extension of the cooler.
The rubber allows the unit to expand and to flex.

[carvesdodo]

Originally Posted by Deezelweazel

Where does that thought come from?

heh heh ... theres all sorts of "entertaining" info out there ....

That needs verifying ... or ignoring .....

[junglejuice]

Originally Posted by carvesdodo

Well Done JJ ....

Its as enlightening as discovering the, back the front, in tank oil "cooler" set up huh ....

.... and when Ive done a few more, decent distance runs with a temp sensor relocated to our dvrs side of the vehicle .... I'll post whatever variations there are, that I noted between either end of the radiator. Unfortunatley it will be in reference to the Adrad radiator ... and not a factory radiator.

Obviously as you stated .... the fanclutch sensor on a RHD model 4.0l XJ is in a cooler air path than the original vehicle design allowed for.

This means:

- It wont kick in as soon as on a LHD XJ,
- Engine coolant temps will have to be pretty hot to influence the "cooled" end of the radiator.

Going by my preliminary ... and probably not exact, low temp, data for the air temp in front of the fanclutch over the past few months .... and the FSM spec 74'c fan clutch start up ....

........ Im hoping the fanclutch from Mr Wooders has a much lower start temp than the factory one .... and the Adrad radiator keeps cooling the liquid as well as it does.

Have been thinking for a while - that the RHD setup could well be the reason why a quality electric fan setup gives good results over what should be ... a reasonably effective clutch fan, on RHD models.

After some more perusing I noticed that the reason for the reversal of the fans is due to the steering box being in the way of the larger fan shroud.
As mine is running the twin electric fans that run all the time in the custom dual speed setup that I made means that all of my radiator has airflow all the time just at varying rates which "should" be more efficient at cooling than the standard setup....

Hopefully!!!!

[Deezelweazel]

Just a wise word thrown in.
Heat transfer is highest where you can expect the highest temp drop. That means at a given air speed the temp drop is highest on the intake (inlet)side.

A radiator must have a temperature drop between 8° and 12° between the inlet and the outlet.
If you can't stay between these numbers your radiator is either waisted or the coolant speed is way to high.
( A reason why the high volume pumps are totally stupid. More flow does not equal in more heat transfer...)

I know, dealers try to tell (and sell) you different things...

[junglejuice]

Originally Posted by Deezelweazel

Just a wise word thrown in.
Heat transfer is highest where you can expect the highest temp drop. That means at a given air speed the temp drop is highest on the intake (inlet)side.

A radiator must have a temperature drop between 8° and 12° between the inlet and the outlet.
If you can't stay between these numbers your radiator is either waisted or the coolant speed is way to high.
( A reason why the high volume pumps are totally stupid. More flow does not equal in more heat transfer...)

I know, dealers try to tell (and sell) you different things...

I will measure mine when I get a chance and see what it is...