Changing a serpentine belt on CRD V6

[multihull]

Has anyone changed the serpentine belt on their V6 diesel? My XH Commander has now done 100,000 km, the belt is showing signs of cracks in the rubber and the other week the idler pulley started making noise. It must have had too much dust and mud in it over the last 4 years. I sprayed some CRC into bearing area and this has calmed the noise down until I do a replacement.
My question is has anyone replaced the serpentine belt on this V6 Merc diesel and can advise on the process involved? It looks like I may need to take a few parts off so I can loop the belt onto all the various pulleys and drives etc.
I look forward to your helpful advice.

[patience]

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/r...erlin-1058547/

[patience]

This is a tutorial for a 4.7V8, but may be somewhat similar?

You Tube

[patience]

Heres the page I was looking for, knew I'd seen it somewhere.
http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_serpentine.htm

[multihull]

Thanks Guys, you've been a great help. From the various threads and links I've now made up a word doc with pics to explain how it's done. Unfortunitly I can't paste a word doc as an attachment
What do you think, have I got it right?

Jeep XH Commander Serpentine Belt replacement procedure
Replacement recommended at every 160km or excessive wear as detailed below.
Under normal use, the serpentine drive belt should be inspected at around 45,000 miles or after 3-4 years of service. If not replaced at this time, the belt should be checked each additional year or 15,000 miles. Under severe and off-road conditions inspect the belt annually. When diagnosing serpentine drive belts, small cracks that run across ribbed surface of belt from rib to rib are considered normal. These are not a reason to replace the belt. However, cracks running lengthwise along a rib (not across) are not normal. Any belt with cracks running lengthwise along a rib should be replaced. Also replace the belt if it has excessive wear, frayed cords or severe glazing.
Warning: Spring tensioners should not be disassembled because of high spring tension. The tensioner unit is serviced by replacing with new assembly.

(diagram of engine front view with components numbered)

1. Alternator
2. Power steering pump pulley
3. Engine belt routing and tensioner release location
4. Crank
5. Tensioner
6.Water Pump
7. Air conditioner
8. Idler pulleys x 2

(actual close up photo of tensioner)

Slide in a pin in the hole to the right of it.
Belt removal:
NOTE: If anything differs between the pictures shown above and the Belt Routing Label (located in the engine compartment), use the schematic on the Routing Label.
CAUTION: DO NOT LET TENSIONER ARM SNAP BACK TO THE FREEARM POSITION, SEVERE DAMAGE MAY OCCUR TO THE TENSIONER. SLOWLY RELAX THE TENSION BACK TO THE STOP POSITION.

Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.

On 3.0L diesel engines, use a 12 point, 17mm socket and a long handle ratchet (3/8" drive) to rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner (5 refer diagram) counterclockwise until it contacts its stop. Remove accessory drive belt. Slowly rotate the belt tensioner back into its freearm position.
Belt installation:
3.0L engines - Position accessory drive belt around all pulleys except the idler pulley. Rotate the belt tensioner counterclockwise until it contacts its stop position. Route the accessory drive belt around the idler ( and slowly let the belt tensioner rotate into the belt. Make sure the belt is seated onto all pulleys.
Reconnect negative battery cable to battery.

[valpacer]

I'm pretty sure you will have to remove your intercooler pipes and do the change from under the car.

Dave

[multihull]

Originally Posted by valpacer

I'm pretty sure you will have to remove your intercooler pipes and do the change from under the car.
Dave

Yeh, I was looking at that too because it looks like that's the only way to remove the belt. Nowhere in the various instructions I've read does it say to the Intercooler connection pipe off so it was going to be suck it and see. Then i'll do an update if required.

The other problem I have and the reason for the belt change removal in the first place is my R/H idler pulley bearing was a bit noisy and it has now finally seized. It's interesting the back off the serpentine belt has worn and melted its way through the plastic pulley but the belt is still in good condition but I'm changing it anyway.