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  #4082  
Old 30-10-2010
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Just test drived it with ZJ rear disks bolted on & it stops better. So far so good. The park brake is the best it has ever been.
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  #4083  
Old 30-10-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJKEE View Post
JJ
I'm using the supplies bolt, just got a new 3/8 tap and HHS drill bit and 3/16 pilot. I have spares for these as well, but wanted new ones for this job. I have a couple of different types or cutting compunds which I use for drilling just about anything in steel nowdays. Saves the drillbits/holesaws and makes the job so much easier. Also have the cutting compound for the new thread. I ended up getting an intermediate tap that will cover having to have a taper and intermediate. Told the salesman what I was drilling into and he came back with some specific bits. Was only 20 bucks for the tap and 2 bits. I will have the shaft turning for the pilot hole to make sure it's centered.
I will finish the crossmember this morning. remount it, take of the old driveshaft, measure again to see what I need to cut and go from there. I already have shims for the alignment. Also need to finish replacing the uni joints in the new 2nd hand driveshaft. Looks like I'll gain about 50mm extra clearance from the crossmember mod and taking out the drop.
DONT Drill with the shaft turning, its a sure fire way to break the bit off in the hole or bust a finger if the drill jams and the shaft is turning. Just center punch it and all will be good. Oh and cutting it with the shaft turning is fine, makes for a straighter cut.

Cheers
Steve
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  #4084  
Old 30-10-2010
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Steve F

Quote:
DONT Drill with the shaft turning, its a sure fire way to break the bit off in the hole or bust a finger if the drill jams and the shaft is turning. Just center punch it and all will be good. Oh and cutting it with the shaft turning is fine, makes for a straighter cut.
i completely agree! good way to break your drill as well (ever see a drill spinning around slapping the floorboard while its stuck in the shaft?)
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  #4085  
Old 30-10-2010
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Replaced my front drive shaft with a great one I got from the wreckers for $50, it drives smooth as silk up to as fast as I was game to test on a public road All happy now and will look at a heavy duty shaft for the front for when the next slip joint starts to wear out, should have a few years at least though now

Cheers
Steve
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  #4086  
Old 30-10-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve F View Post
DONT Drill with the shaft turning, its a sure fire way to break the bit off in the hole or bust a finger if the drill jams and the shaft is turning. Just center punch it and all will be good. Oh and cutting it with the shaft turning is fine, makes for a straighter cut.

Cheers
Steve

Oops. Too late.

Cut the shaft of with it in reverse. Drilled the pilot hole with it in 1st. used plenty of cutting compund and didn't really use the drill. Just let the turning shaft do the work, which meant i got a hole thats centered. Will drill the next one without the shaft turning as it is larger so more chance of snapping the drill bit and I already have the pilot hole. Hot the crossmeber back on, replaced all the uni joints for the driveshaft and cut and drilled the pilot hole. tomorrow will drill it out, cut the thread, fit it up and re-align the rear diff.
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  #4087  
Old 30-10-2010
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the never-ending cargo box project is finally done!
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  #4088  
Old 30-10-2010
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Nice one Rodge!
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