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Old 29-11-2010
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Default YJ Jeep Wrangler

I cancelled my JK Wrangler order and changed it for a scale working winch (Bulldog).


The reason I cancelled it was I've finally found a hard body.. that was in stock. Not easy to find it would seem.

Anyway, it's on order and should arrive in the next few weeks.



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Last edited by CD; 31-12-2010 at 05:00 PM. Reason: UDATE THREAD NAME
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Old 07-12-2010
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Update on my YJ build

On order.. due to arrive just in time for Christmas :wohoo:




Also going to up grade my links, I bent my rear lower control arm on Sunday so time to change.


and I decided to get some 1.9's again.. these should arrive around the same time as everything else.
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Old 20-12-2010
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You've got the bug bad Chris, the only way I stopped (for a while) was by breaking stuff......then holding back from fixing them! Mind you my new Alloy Y link upper arm arrived a few weeks back and I'm dying to get it going again ;p!
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Old 28-12-2010
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It's great fun Stu.. also a good way to muck around with my 7yr old

So... my build is under way... well sort of. I need to reduce the wheel base by quite a bit. I've just put the rear alloy links on but think that I'll need to cut them down.




As you can see it just not going to fit like this.




This pic is just for fun... it's with my new 1.9 Rok Lox
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Old 30-12-2010
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I just bought a very small plumbers pipe cutter to shorten my control arms .
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Old 31-12-2010
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So an update of where I am with this build.

I'm working on the rear first and started it as a 3 link but have now changed it to a 4 link as I want to maintain good flex while reducing the length of the control arms.

I'm using the shorter arms to test out the measurements as I'm not really sure what will work..... and I don't want to cut the control arms just yet as I need to know what will be the length.


4 link.


Pulling it apart again and finding out that the drive shaft will be too long for such a short arm kit!!!





One thing I can take from the exercise is that the diff is sitting in a good position for the rear but will need to move back a little and should be OK to do so as I've still got the front sitting on the stock links.



It's also worth noting that I don't like how far forward the shocks are having to lean. I know I can drill new holes to move the hoop shock mounts around to it's not really a problem at this stage.








Judd, I really wanted your advice & imput at this stage in my build. You may have measurements that I could work with for the control arms or something like that.
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Old 31-12-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CD View Post
So an update of where I am with this build.

I'm working on the rear first and started it as a 3 link but have now changed it to a 4 link as I want to maintain good flex while reducing the length of the control arms.

I'm using the shorter arms to test out the measurements as I'm not really sure what will work..... and I don't want to cut the control arms just yet as I need to know what will be the length.


4 link.


Pulling it apart again and finding out that the drive shaft will be too long for such a short arm kit!!!





One thing I can take from the exercise is that the diff is sitting in a good position for the rear but will need to move back a little and should be OK to do so as I've still got the front sitting on the stock links.



It's also worth noting that I don't like how far forward the shocks are having to lean. I know I can drill new holes to move the hoop shock mounts around to it's not really a problem at this stage.








Judd, I really wanted your advice & imput at this stage in my build. You may have measurements that I could work with for the control arms or something like that.
The easiest way i found to sort out the 4 link is a 4 link brace (http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/ax80043.htm, http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/dindl003.htm)
The best set up is equal length upper and lower contol arms, in a double triangle.

The shorter the arms are the more the axle will walk under flex or droop, meaning you can have it sitting in the centre of the guard but when the tyre is pushed in the it might rub the front of the flare area.

Besides that, the truck is looking sweet, you need 1.55in rims but

If i didnt answer what you wanted let me know, and ill try. I have struggled with heaps of 4 links with length of stuff so chances are i can share some knowlege
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