2.7 CRD front main seal replacement - flywheel locking queation

[martien]

Hi everyone,

First post here. The community has been so helpful to me with my WG journey so far.

I have an oil leak coming from the front main seal. My workshop manual refers to locking the flywheel with a special tool so I can safely unscrew and tighten back the crankshaft pulley bolt with its over 300 Nm torque setting.
The problem is that the diagrams and procedures described show everything for a front sump setup, same as with the MB Sprinters from the same era, while my WG is with a rear sump due to the dana front axle. In the rear sump setup the inspection hole of the flywheel is different and the locking tool doesn’t have a place to be fixed to the engine.
My next logical step is to drop the sump and then see if I can secure the flywheel properly.

Has anyone stumbled upon this? Is there a proper service manual for 2.7 CRD with a rear sump setup or are they all the same - I’m starting to wonder what else will be different in mine over time?

Anyways, I’ve been searching the net for couple of days and there seems to be no info whatsoever anywhere about this topic, which starts to really sound like I’m the only one out there with the wrong documentation in hand .
I’m happy to hear some feedback and I will post pictures after I do it so there is some info if anyone needs it.

[Adrian D]

The CLK270 CDI has the same rear sump, might be worth checking a service manual for that to see what locking tool is available.

Anything about that in the WG diesel FSM?
You can get it from here (2002 WG zip file): http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/WJ/

[5oclock]

In the past I have had success getting front pulley bolts undone by putting a socket on the bolt( single hex is best), and a long extension so that it rests on the ground under the car. Then just a quick tap on the starter and bingo its undone.
Best to disable the ignition or fuel supply so she doesnt start up.Obviously check the extension is resting the right way around etc.
To do it back up just use a rattle gun and give it heaps, or belt a smaller extension with a hammer.
I know its bush mechanics style, but it works,,also at your own risk.

[MuzzaWA]

The WG 2002 manual shows the front seal replacement on page 9a-30 and the locking tool on page 9a-31.
The locking tool is listed as: "SPECIAL TOOL #8932 CRANKSHAFT LOCK"
MB# 601 589 02 40 00

You can access from either the bottom bell housing inspection port (the black plastic cover that is brittle), or through the starter motor mount hole.

https://shop.ktcautotools.com/collec...cking-tool-set

[Deezelweazel]

I do have that tool.
But to be honest- just use a modified c-clamp. which you can grind a sharp edge at the tip, so it will fit into the starter gear. Then lock the c- clamp with a a hefty vise clamp to make sure it doesn't slip.
Way cheaper solution than the tool!

ps: let me know what size the nut on the front main is- I don't feel the need to crawl on my back at the moment...