2.7 crd overheating on inclines

[Deezelweazel]

Bernoullis law of heat transfer.
Heat is going always from the hot side to the cold side.
Is you fan being activated when the engine is that hot? Check that!

[Deezelweazel]

Get youself an original ELM327 adapter- the original one- not a china copy and WJ Jeep diag software. Then you are able to to read out the real engine and transmission temperatures. So no more guessing.

[Seriusrod]

Thanks @Deezelweazel for all your help.

When I did the car overhaul, I did dissasemble all the front of the car. Took out all the rads for cleaning (that's why an ac charge was needed). And changed all the fluids. Had to change one hose from the hydro-fan.
I did remove that 2nd coolant bottle and cleaned. Not that it was dirty.

For the tranny, I did an oil and filter swap. Didn't find anything wrong in the old oil other than that it was almost black. I used the original Merc oil. I didn't replace the wiring adapter, it gave problems later and I replaced it with the Merc part. Now it only throws a gear lever error from time to time when I start the car, but I guess that it is caused by a faulty battery that I bought. I called the parts shop and they will replace it for me in warranty.
Even so, coming for other Jeeps with other transmissions (Wrangler, WJ with gas trans) I find this one soo slow to react. It seems a grannys car.

I did bought the trans dipstick. The problem I have is that I follow the procedure you describe and adjust it. Then I go checking it another day and it's at the min level. I add it, and the another day it's at the top end of the plastic gauge. I never had this problem with the AW4s.
Now it at the top of the plastic gauge.

When I stopped by at the highway, with the temp gauge showing 120ºC, the coolant bottle was high, but not the end of the world. I noticed that a tiny line of bubbles was travelling at the front and that the coolant was pristine clean. That tool my attention.
I know that you must to be mad to open the cap in that moment, but I thought "let's see". I started to pull it out and when it was free, coolant started to raise fast, so I immediately closed it. I suspect that if it was a head gasket, it would had pressure built and the cap should at least had psssh-ed on me. But not.

I have an old ELM adapter. I tried torque and the physical gauge seemed to show 5ºC more than the measurement. But thought that usually they are two different sensors. Also have WJdiag and there are no errors.

[Seriusrod]

Now that I remember, there was that grinding noise from the belt, so I replaced all the pulleys, then the alternator pully, but it didn't go away. I thought that it was the ac pulley bearing and forget about it.
It started with the engine and then was slowly going away. A "ching... ching... ching...".

Now that I realize the sound disappeared one week ago. I was happy.
But could that be the water pump?? That had the bearing worn out and the impeller grinding until gone?

[Deezelweazel]

Only one way to find out...

[Seriusrod]

The car is in the shop for one week now. They started doing block tests and they said they where all ok.
Then started disassembling the coolant system. Found the thermostat somewhat rusted and decided to change it. The pump impellers where in good condition and there was no slip, but the bearing made a snoozing sound so I'll also be changing that.
The radiator was sent to a rad shop and they said that it was clogged.

The guy was so happy telling me that, because we discard then a head or gasket failure.
I suppose that I'll get the car back at the end of the week.

[JeanLuke]

How did this end?