Rubicon factory lockers, query...

[Lim@]

Originally Posted by NTRubicon

Wouldn't it be easy to check if it's locked by jacking one rear wheel off the ground while the locker is on and trying to turn it? If it's locked the other wheel on the ground should stop that movement

correct.

redbox gave some pretty good ideas.

get under your rear diff. you'll see two plugs connecting to the diff housing, top one is the switch to engage, the bottom one is the one that tell's you that it is engaged (makes the light go solid)

disconnect the top one, and get a multimeter across the two pins, it wont matter what is positive or negative, i will assume your multi will show + or - 12v. if it does this, then your cabling to engage the diff up to the diff is correct.

if it does this, and you can physically hear the locker engaging and disengaging (with the car off) then you most likely have an issue with your plunger switch in the diff, or the cabling from the bottom plug back to the cabin.

if you want lockers in 4hi or any gear for that matter, and to have front engage without rears and vice versa, manually switch them. im pretty sure i have a writeup here somewhere on how to do that! it works way faster, half the time mine engage now without having to roll or drive slowly/ turn wheels at all.

[Johnboy]

Id be interested in that info Lim@, does it throw any codes if you hard wire the lockers??

[TAC700]

So I have had a look under the car and found that it was a poorly connected wire when the extension went in due to lift.

So I have re connected/lengthened the electrical wires and all connections are good and STILL no rear locker... Still not engaging.... Must bethe solenoid then ?.? Hmm...

[multihull]

I have a similar issue that my diff lock indicator lights are flashing and not solid as described in the Owners Manual but I've done a test and to confirm the lockers are engaging. I did this by jacking up the front and rear opposing wheels and when in L4 & NO Lockers on and the car in Drive and slowly and carefully letting my foot off the brake. Both jacked & raised wheels turned and the car didn't want to drive forward. I then did the same test with just the rear locker in and it wanted to drive of the jacks. Great the rear locker is engaging. I then disconnected the rear diff wires and tried the test with just the front locker turned on and once again the car wanted to drive off the jack.
Now why is the diff engage dash lights flashing? I did mange to get the rear light to stay on but once I disconnected the wires for the test it went back to flashing again. I've cleaned the connections and they all look OK and no signs of a break. Could it be fuses? can I do some sort of multimeter test?
Any suggestions and help would be appreciated.

[wranglertj]

Interesting that with first test it wouldn't drive off as BLD should have activated, maybe cause under gentle throttle it does not trigger

[MightyMouse]

As Tim says.... why not just contact DBOR directly..... seems like a good idea.
There' a pile of things that could cause it ranging from the simple to the complex, and if you can't diagnose it I'm sure they quickly can.

I saw one recently where the owner had cabled tied the locker wiring up to the chassis and not surprisingly it had torn the wiring off at the switch.

[multihull]

Originally Posted by MightyMouse

As Tim says.... why not just contact DBOR directly..... seems like a good idea.
There' a pile of things that could cause it ranging from the simple to the complex, and if you can't diagnose it I'm sure they quickly can.

I saw one recently where the owner had cabled tied the locker wiring up to the chassis and not surprisingly it had torn the wiring off at the switch.

The wiring on my car is all OK and clipped in correctly. I did another test today to confirm the lockers were engaging. I drove the car around a paddock in low range and tested the 4L with rear locker switched on first (with indicator light still flashing away) and it was all good and locked on tight turns, then the same with the next setting of front & rear locked and all seemed good. I then thought I'd try it in 4H and guest what it's locking in 4 HIGH as well (with both indicator lights still flashing away) which it say in the manual it doesn't lock in high, Hmmmm?
Maybe the previous owner did a trick with the wiring to enable this function which is now effecting the indicator lights. Does any one know of this type of hot wiring trick if so I could then study this further.