Jk diesel dual battery setup help

[aydanrogers]

Hi just thought i would find out if anyone has any photos of their setup in the boot and how they mounts it there and also what gauge wire to use to get down to the boot and also where it was earthen to?

Can anybody let me know what kind of amps the starter motor draws as i want to be able to use this second battery to jump start the main in case of emergencies.

Also what size breakers am i going to have to get and do i place them in front of both positive terminals or after them?

Just a bit of info of my setup, i have a projecta battery box and 150amp electronic isolator and a ritar 120amp agm battery.

Cheers
Aydan

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[Crackles]

G'day Aydan. Mounted mine in a drop down box & run 2 x 35mm copper flex between the batteries so I could winch off the auxillary.
To carry sufficient current to start your car an earth wire should be run all the way (Not earthed through the body). I ran mine through an isolator switch so I can seperate the 2 batteries but did not fuse at either end, choosing instead to double insulate the positive to avoid shorting. To be honest you'd probably need a 200 amp fuse to carry the starting current so if a cable rubbed through it would likely burn in half before blowing the fuse anyway. (There's no fuse between the battery & a starter motor on any car I know of nor an electric winch)

[tonyo]

I'm interested in the minimum two battery set up to power say a 60 to 80 liter fridge.

[aydanrogers]

Originally Posted by Crackles

G'day Aydan. Mounted mine in a drop down box & run 2 x 35mm copper flex between the batteries so I could winch off the auxillary.
To carry sufficient current to start your car an earth wire should be run all the way (Not earthed through the body). I ran mine through an isolator switch so I can seperate the 2 batteries but did not fuse at either end, choosing instead to double insulate the positive to avoid shorting. To be honest you'd probably need a 200 amp fuse to carry the starting current so if a cable rubbed through it would likely burn in half before blowing the fuse anyway. (There's no fuse between the battery & a starter motor on any car I know of nor an electric winch)

So don't fuse the batteries ok well that should be fine. How about the sice of the cable? Is 4gauge sufficient or should i go for something more along the lines of 2 or 0? Also with this thick gauge cable am i still going to be able to attach it to my isolator?

Another thing, i am going to setup an Anderson plug near the battery at the back so its easy to take out of the car. Is there any rating or size im going to have to use for this?

Also what is the 35mm copper flex you talk about? How did you double insulate it swell?

Thanks and sorry for all the questions
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[aussiebulldust]

Double insulate just means run it in flexible conduct so it has a second layer of protection. You will need a fair sized cable otherwise you get too much loss for a long run like that. The best option is go to a welding supplier and get welding cables or supercheap has it as well but you pay a little more.

[Jeep To Be]

I have mine in a removable battery box in the back. If I need it to jump start, I can take it out and use it. But I didn't design it to use the battery to run the winch.
Mine looks after the Engel, all the lighting gear I have, plus a 400W 240V inverter and is run via an Engel 12v to 12v charger.
So far it has worked great while away, but it has had a charge every day when I do some driving.

[tonyo]

Originally Posted by Jeep To Be

I have mine in a removable battery box in the back. If I need it to jump start, I can take it out and use it. But I didn't design it to use the battery to run the winch.
Mine looks after the Engel, all the lighting gear I have, plus a 400W 240V inverter and is run via an Engel 12v to 12v charger.
So far it has worked great while away, but it has had a charge every day when I do some driving.

Sounds good. Do you have pictures? How do you hook it into the existing electrical system?