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  #1  
Old 26-07-2012
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Unhappy Stalling, sometimes surging at idle, hesitation under load - MAP sensor?

Big picture: recently swapped the cylinder head for a 7120 casting as part of a head gasket replacement due to an overheating issue a year earlier which left it with a slowly worsening idle - with a wet "putting" through the exhaust, especially when cold. At the time thought to be due to the head gasket, along with a broken exhaust manifold stud which didn't help. It was also stalling occasionally.

Did a full service at this point, including:
- oil/filter
- bosch platinum plugs
- O2 sensors
- coolant
- welsh plugs (don't get me started )
- crank angle sensor (for good measure)

All was fine after first run, and the wet "putting" from the exhaust seems to have gone. Then decided to fit the new cap and rotor. After this, idle was very poor until warmed up. Took it for a good fang and found it wanting to stall on sharp turns - particularly to the left.

Re-examined the dissy as this was the last thing touched and noticed play in the shaft and a rhythmic knocking noise, thought to be from the dissy/rotor.

Replaced the dissy with a good used one (thanks JJ).

Quote:
Originally Posted by darksidecustoms View Post
Took it for a drive from cold start this evening and while generally a lot smoother and idle was much better than before, still stalled a couple of times when pulling to a stop. Once when popped into neutral to recover a stall, it surged without any throttle and coincidentally had a 'sulfurous' smell. Also threw a CEL.

Will see if I can download the code this weekend and will start a new thread if it's nothing obvious. Curious if whether it's related to the MAP sensor or NSS codes I pulled last time, or possibly transmission - when pulling to a stop it's almost as if the torque convertor doesnt slip.
Last time I downloaded the codes, I had P0107 (Map Sensor Voltage Too Low) and P1296 (No 5 Volts to MAP Sensor) - amongst other things such as NSS/trans and a short from the fuel level sensor, which drops out all the time anyway. This was 4 weeks ago and I have since adjusted the NSS so this should be OK.

Haven't had a chance to download the code from the current fault(s).

From cold start tonight, it was struggling to keep idle at all - slowly stalls over about 4-5 secs to stall completely. Unplugged the sensor, exactly the same - no change. Drove to the local westfield, it sat for about 20 mins while I was shopping. Drove home and running next to perfect - was even quicker 0-80 than a DC5 Integra Type-R. Let it idle outside the house and unplugged the MAP sensor while running, and it stalled just liked when cold tonight - over about 4-5 secs.

Thought it also may have been to do with the fuel pump as it was less than a quarter full, but filled it tonight with 98 BP Ultimate and no change.

Also checked the trans fluid today from the dip stick - just above full but looking a little yellow and smelling slightly burnt, but it hasn't been replaced in the 3 years I've had the XJ. I do have a new trans filter ready to go in though, just haven't been able to make the time. No slipping, firm shifts, starts in park/neutral, reverse lights work (but sometimes not from cold start).

Also recently replaced coil and leads (~9 months ago, MSD).


Feels like I'm on the right track with the MAP sensor - like it's only working correctly when it's had some heat soaked into it. Don't have a multimeter to test it, might need to buy one.

What do you think? Money's real tight at the moment and its been about 2 months chasing this with my wife unable to drive it so I need to finally hit the nail on the head!

Last edited by darksidecustoms; 26-07-2012 at 11:09 PM.
  #2  
Old 26-07-2012
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I can get a MAP sensor from rockauto.com for about $70 posted, and for another $70 also the IAC and cam angle sensor.

On one hand I would rather save the money if I only need one of them, but on the other it will be just as painful to pay shipping again and wait another week if it doesn't fix the issue.
  #3  
Old 27-07-2012
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Sounds like you may have an intermitent fault in the wiring that supplys 5 volts to the map sensor.

Suggest you buy a multimeter. a $20 one will do.
my map sensor outputs 4.8volts with the ignition on and engine not running,
suggest you measure your voltage out put from the map
a) right after it stalls out and
B) after you have shut it down after running normaly


if it not outputing around 4.8v check the input voltage to the MAP sensor.

good luck with it.
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  #4  
Old 27-07-2012
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Have you pulled of the throttle body and IAC and given it a good clean? I did this as part of my jobs and it smoothed out the idle. The IAC was pretty coked up so it can't help idle. Pulling off the controller and the bracket part and you can get it really clean. I just used carby cleaner and cotton buds and rags.

Just be v careful when getting the bolts out the TB. They are loctited in. Maybe do while warmed up? Apply a load of wd40

I did also forget to reconnect the MAP sensor too. I noticed it started ok but stalled from idle. Unplug yours and see if you have the same symptoms.

I'd also recommend investing in a scan gauge or similar for reading the codes. Mine was v useful in diagnosing my issues. Also you get cels when pulling sensors so it's good to be able to clear them. I also found resetting the ECU cleared codes too (when the scan gauge 2 didn't work).

Maybe you can find a friendly xj owner nearby and try swapping the sensors before you buy them?
  #5  
Old 27-07-2012
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Coil maybe????
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  #6  
Old 28-07-2012
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So no usual symptoms today but going on a longer trip tomorrow so I'll swap the old coil back in to test.

Borrowing a multimeter in the morning too so will report back when I have some results.

If I can rule out the coil then I'll give the throttle and iac a clean. Throttle body was cleaned out when we swapped the head, but we didn't pull the iac out - just left it in one piece with sensors disconnected.

Thanks so far!
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  #7  
Old 28-07-2012
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I assume that you have verified that the head was OK?
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