NP242 Transfer Case Front Output Seal

[Hamsteh]

Hey folks, long time no chat!

I'm about to crack into a nice long break from work and plan on tackling the mountain of jobs on the Jeep over December.

First up is the pools of ATF forming under my transfer case as of the past week. Seems to be coating the front output shaft so I'm thinking output seal.

Sounds like this job will require a 1/2" impact to remove the front yolk bolt, and I may have to split the case in order to remove the shaft to change the seal? Felt like a little bit of lateral movement in the shaft... but would rather not mucking around with bearings though if I don't have to.

Anyone have any tips/guides?

Cheers in advance,
Hamsteh

[anthonygubbin]

Mine was leaking and it needed to be broken down to do it. Although I had an idea the seal can be done with out breaking the TC right down. My bearing was shot so I had no choice.

Regards A

[ROJA]

Transfer Case - Front Output Seal Replacement

I believe a couple of mm movement of the shaft in and out is normal.

You do not need to remove the transfer case to replace the front output seal.

There’s a good write up here: http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...nt+output+seal

I did mine a couple of months ago, this is how I did it.

You will need:

• Front Output Shaft Oil Seal – part number 4798125 (96-01 Jeep Cherokee XJ) (they are cheap, I recommend getting 2, if you bend one you have a spare)
• Front Yoke Washer - part number 4210973
• A deep 1 1/8" socket
• Breaker bar
• Large long screwdriver and small pry bar
• RTV

1. Block the wheels.
2. Shift into 4LO.
3. Remove the front driveshaft (4 x 8mm bolts). Don’t forget to mark the position of the front shaft on both the front yoke and the transfer case yoke.
4. Remove yoke - Use a breaker bar and 1 1/8" socket to remove the yoke nut. Be aware the nut is going to be very tight (really tight) and stays tight right till it’s off!
5. Remove seal (either use a seal puller or you can do it using a large long screwdriver or small pry bar or a combination of the two to lever it out. It takes some time and effort. I ended up tearing the metal outside of the seal by prying with a screw driver and pry bar and then used locking pliers to put it free. Be careful not to scratch or dent the Transfer Case.
6. Clean inside the TC mating surface of any old RTV and also clean the yoke surface that seal will be pressed against.
7. Install new seal - lubricate seal lip with trans fluid and apply a light coat of RTV to the outside diameter of the seal shell (getting it started straight is a bitch, it will try to pop out. Use a wooden or plastic block to tap around the outer edge of the seal working it in bit by bit, just keep trying it will eventually go in. It’s easy to twist or bend the seal which is why I recommend buying an extra one just in case).
8. Slide yoke back onto shaft.
9. Install new rubber Front Yoke Washer (part number 4210973)
10. Install and torque yoke nut to 100 ft pnds.
11. Refit front driveshaft, torque to 14 ft pnds.
12. Top up with Dex III transfluid, recheck for leaks after a few days.

[anthonygubbin]

I would apply grease to the seal lip as it will be less likely to burn that way as I found out the hard way.

Regards A

[Hamsteh]

Thanks heaps for the responses guys! Been a busy couple of days so haven't had a chance to get on here until now.

Really appreciate the advice, I'll organise the parts as soon as I've tackled the more pressing issues!