Flooded

[cowwee]

Hi guys,
Well we managed to drown our 3.8 2011 2 door jk....amazing how easy it is to do when you knock off a valve and get a puncture halfway across the river!
So she idled for about 30min...then slowly died while sitting in the river. It was quite fast flowing, so couldn't get her out for about 1 hour.
After draining the insides, she wouldn't restart....would turn over, but not fire.
We managed to get her home, and now she won't even turn over. It has been 2 weeks, so things should have dried out a bit.
I managed to get the codes....

Tried to reset them, but no luck.
We have checked all the plugs under the bonnet...sprayed them clean. We have changed the oil as it was milky.
Any suggestions about what to do next....am thinking of trying insurance...as parts seem to be bloody expensive!
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[Banshee]

Just from the electronics end, (troubleshooting electronics faults was my job for 20 years), when you cleaned all the plugs & sockets out, did you leave the fusebox open to dry out as well? When it is drowned, the main problems that occur to electronics are shorts that can damage some of the circuit components, contamination from crap in the water after it has dried and corrosion from being wet, (the contamination & corrosion can create shorts afterwards).

There may be some crap in either the TIPM or one of the other bits of electronics that is causing all the problems by making noise on the CANBUS. This is basically the problem that people have had when the Rubicon front disconnect gets drowned & then they get all sorts of unrelated faults showing up.

My guess is that there is something that got wet that has failed & it is, in non technicians terms, essentially screaming so loudly on the CANBUS, that the computer components, TIPM, ECU etc, are guessing at what signals are there & getting it wrong, because they can't hear what is actually happening through all the noise from the failed part.

While that does explain the likely problem, I'm afraid that this probably won't help find the culprit much, sorry. Good luck with getting it sorted.

[cowwee]

Originally Posted by Banshee

Just from the electronics end, (troubleshooting electronics faults was my job for 20 years), when you cleaned all the plugs & sockets out, did you leave the fusebox open to dry out as well? When it is drowned, the main problems that occur to electronics are shorts that can damage some of the circuit components, contamination from crap in the water after it has dried and corrosion from being wet, (the contamination & corrosion can create shorts afterwards).

There may be some crap in either the TIPM or one of the other bits of electronics that is causing all the problems by making noise on the CANBUS. This is basically the problem that people have had when the Rubicon front disconnect gets drowned & then they get all sorts of unrelated faults showing up.

My guess is that there is something that got wet that has failed & it is, in non technicians terms, essentially screaming so loudly on the CANBUS, that the computer components, TIPM, ECU etc, are guessing at what signals are there & getting it wrong, because they can't hear what is actually happening through all the noise from the failed part.

While that does explain the likely problem, I'm afraid that this probably won't help find the culprit much, sorry. Good luck with getting it sorted.

Thanks...yeah i did take out the Fuse box/TIPM and it seemed ok....i did have a blown 60A Rad Fan fuse though.

[Banshee]

The blown fuse may have been due to water stopping the fan from spinning fast enough. As, depending on the design of the motor, when an electric motor spins faster, it generates a voltage that opposes the battery supply. So the current is highest at startup until it reaches a balance between supply voltage, reverse voltage and the power used to keep the motor spinning.

Although, I wouldn't expect the wiring to the fan to survive 60A constant, it only takes a short spike to blow a fuse and that may not have gone through the fan itself.

[MightyMouse]

Originally Posted by Banshee

The blown fuse may have been due to water stopping the fan from spinning fast enough. As, depending on the design of the motor, when an electric motor spins faster, it generates a voltage that opposes the battery supply. So the current is highest at startup until it reaches a balance between supply voltage, reverse voltage and the power used to keep the motor spinning.

Although, I wouldn't expect the wiring to the fan to survive 60A constant, it only takes a short spike to blow a fuse and that may not have gone through the fan itself.

If its a stock 3.8 fan motor its completely unsealed...... so either failed due to direct immersion or tried to start up with the blades in the water and overloaded. Seen it happen on both 3.8 and 3.6, and BTW the cost of a replacement 3.6 fan unit is obscene.

The pic of the fault codes is a little misleading..... if the app is correct they are OBDII Mode 10 codes so they indicate prior faults that only the ECU can clear once its running again. Mode 10 cannot be cleared by a Scan tool only the vehicles ECU. Also of interest is that it hasn't correctly identified the vehicle ( GM references.... ) so trusting the displayed information might not be a great idea. Once you move from the SAE mandatory DTC's manufacturer's can do what they like - a GM DTC might indicate something completely different when used by Chrysler.

Would be better to concentrate on current DTC's and PID's.... resolve them and then the Mode 10 problems will sort themselves out.

[cowwee]

Originally Posted by MightyMouse

If its a stock 3.8 fan motor its completely unsealed...... so either failed due to direct immersion or tried to start up with the blades in the water and overloaded. Seen it happen on both 3.8 and 3.6, and BTW the cost of a replacement 3.6 fan unit is obscene.

The pic of the fault codes is a little misleading..... if the app is correct they are OBDII Mode 10 codes so they indicate prior faults that only the ECU can clear once its running again. Mode 10 cannot be cleared by a Scan tool only the vehicles ECU. Also of interest is that it hasn't correctly identified the vehicle ( GM references.... ) so trusting the displayed information might not be a great idea. Once you move from the SAE mandatory DTC's manufacturer's can do what they like - a GM DTC might indicate something completely different when used by Chrysler.

Would be better to concentrate on current DTC's and PID's.... resolve them and then the Mode 10 problems will sort themselves out.

Thanks mate,

There were only "Permanent" Trouble codes when read....nothing under "Confirmed" or "Pending" codes.
Thanks

[MightyMouse]

Is the MIL on ?