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Old 19-03-2021
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Default Temp guage orange

While sorting out my overheating concerns on the wk2 I was informed by the Jeep dealer in Orange (ironic concerning the topic) that while towing a heavy loda it is ok for temperature guage needle to go into the orange section and stay there while under load and doesn't necessarily mean it overheating, it is when it passes the orange and the chimes start that it is overheating . Scary idea .
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Old 19-03-2021
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Looks like normal operating temp for your WK can be up to 122°C, and the check gauges light should come on above that to indicate overheating. Note, that chimes (plural) don't happen. It's a only single chime when the check gauges light illuminates.

This is what the '12 FSM states about the operation of the gauge.

Quote:
Engine Temperature Message - Each time the IPC receives an electronic engine temperature message from the PCM or ECM indicating the temperature is between the low end of normal [about 54 °C (130 °F) and the high end of normal [about 122 °C (252 °F), the gauge needle is moved to the actual relative temperature position on the gauge scale.

Engine Temperature High Message - Each time the IPC receives three consecutive electronic engine temperature messages from the PCM or ECM indicating the temperature is above about 122 °C (252 °F), the gauge needle is moved to the red increment or zone at the far right end of gauge scale, the check gauges indicator is illuminated, and a single chime tone is sounded. The gauge needle remains at the high end of the gauge scale and the check gauges indicator remains illuminated until the cluster receives a message from the PCM or ECM indicating that the temperature is below about 122 °C (252 °F), or until the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, whichever occurs first. The chime tone feature will only repeat during the same ignition cycle if the check gauges indicator is cycled OFF and then ON again by the appropriate messages from the PCM or ECM.
On my TJ the chime and lamp should come on as the needle gets to the red zone, and if the temp is determined to be critical the chime sounds again as the needle is pegged full right.

Last edited by Jonny Jeep; 19-03-2021 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 19-03-2021
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One would hope on a modern rig like the WK2 it would just shut the shit down if the temp was nudging too high.
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Old 20-03-2021
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Last year my engine oil went to 125 climbing a monster hill with van on back, tranny went to 93, no idea where the needle gauge was, no chimes but I should have shut down the AC I think, dropped back very fast..............that was my 8 speeder test and I was most impressed, with the 5 speed I had to synchronise the revs/gear selection to keep the sweet spot to make sure the kettle didn't boil.
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Old 20-03-2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drover View Post
Last year my engine oil went to 125 climbing a monster hill with van on back, tranny went to 93, no idea where the needle gauge was, no chimes but I should have shut down the AC I think, dropped back very fast..............that was my 8 speeder test and I was most impressed, with the 5 speed I had to synchronise the revs/gear selection to keep the sweet spot to make sure the kettle didn't boil.
When it’s a warm day and I’ve been driving a bit my transmission sits on 87-91 degrees, never goes over though. And this is without towing. Not sure about towing as I haven’t done any yet. I’m assuming this is normal.
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Old 20-03-2021
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reading some info on the 8 speed zf auto i believe the operating temp for the auto is 90 degrees for normal running not towing etc.
Mine once warmed up running around town runs at about 92.
Did a long trip down south recently and going up hills at speed creeps up into the high 90s.
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Old 20-03-2021
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I have found a difference of around 2-3 deg between towing and just normal belting down the highway, (87-93) over 35 deg outside a tiny bit hotter but the best gearbox I've come across to date, no need for heaps of $$$ on after market cooling and internal changes to make it suitable for our temps.
I might get a spare thermostat with housing just in case, especially as I have heard the housings are more prone to fail than the thermo.... I used to have a collection of hoses, belts and thermostats from spares boxes, never needed to used the buggas, one time with a rotor button and I find the wrong button in the right box,.
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