P0340 on my new CRD

[JoergM]

So I got the CRD model I was writing the other day about. The first 2 weeks all good although right when I drove off from the previous owner, I saw a check engine light. I told him that I will get a diagnostics tool and if this is something serious we need to talk again.

Well I got the ELM327 OBDII tool and the WJ diag app for Android. Works like a charm and I could see that there were a couple of codes but I did not know for how long they have been there so I cleared them. And for several days no problem. Today, I wanted to drive to a market close to our new house and suddenly the coolant light came on, although there is enough coolant in the reservoir. I stopped at a servo and thought or refilling but sensed that I would better wait to cool the engine off before I do that. When i started the engine, I realized that it was cranking much longer before the engine started than it usually does. There was no overheating issue though, the temperature gauge was staying in range.

Then when we drove further I realized that they turbo does not kick in at all anymore and I stopped and turned the engine off. Then I found the P0340 error in the WJ diag app again. And I was not able to start the engine. It keep cranking and then ... nothing. So I cleared the error and I was then able to start the engine and drove back home but again the turbo was gone.

Then back home after letting the engine cool down, I saw that the error codes was back. I did a test drive and I had no issue with cranking the engine over. Also the turbo was back.

I checked online and found some posting regarding the error code. What I suspect is that one or more of my injectors are stuffed and need to be cleaned. I did the live diagnosis with the WJ diag tool and could see that at least 2 if not 3 have different readings in the fuels sensor than the others.

[JoergM]

Here are some snapshots. The first one is the one with the live fuel flow

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[JeanLuke]

P0340 is the camshaft position sensor. Part of the start sequence is the ECU needs to see the cam and crank sensors in sync before firing any injectors, as well as rail pressure.

The turbocharger "holiday" is interesting. I've had it once only in over 4 years and 100,000km. Never figured it out.

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[bodgie]

Originally Posted by JeanLuke

The turbocharger "holiday" is interesting. I've had it once only in over 4 years and 100,000km. Never figured it out.

I've never experienced any turbo related issues, seems like an odd one. I'd suspect the variable vane controller has had an issue and didn't want to work. This could be a control problem or it could also be the mechanism is worn and jamming occasionally.

[JoergM]

Originally Posted by bodgie

I've never experienced any turbo related issues, seems like an odd one. I'd suspect the variable vane controller has had an issue and didn't want to work. This could be a control problem or it could also be the mechanism is worn and jamming occasionally.

Thanks JeanLuke and Jason. Do you think it is worth to buy a new crank and cam shaft sensor? I read that sometimes a good clean with carburetor cleaner works as well at least if there is not a damage to the sensor and it is just dirty. I definitely will clean the injectors and change the fuel filter as a precaution part.

[bodgie]

Originally Posted by JoergM

Thanks JeanLuke and Jason. Do you think it is worth to buy a new crank and cam shaft sensor? I read that sometimes a good clean with carburetor cleaner works as well at least if there is not a damage to the sensor and it is just dirty. I definitely will clean the injectors and change the fuel filter as a precaution part.

Crank and cam sensors are cheap I you buy from the US and if the car is still in good condition and you like it a small investment may solve some problems.

These are OEM parts typically:

https://europarts-sd.com/mfg-subcat-...D=102&scID=178

https://europarts-sd.com/crankshaftp...r2002-2006.asp

Rockauto.com will also sell them too, look for the 2003 T1N Dodge Sprinter

These are hall effect devices so cleaning them won't solve the problem unfortunately. Most electronic devices that are continually heat soaked will eventually fail at some point.

[Adrian D]

The usual failure mode of the cam sensor is failure to start when hot. Cooling the sensor results in engine starting again.

Any failed start will trigger P0340, even not cranking enough. I would not worry about it if it starts ok.

As for the turbo, follow the vacuum lines from the vane actuator all the way to where it connects to a larger vacuum source.