Confused over thermostat

[Puk]

I learned how to check codes and did them for the first time today.

It threw me code 17, which is about the engine not running at a hot enough temperature.

the fix on Go-Jeep's site seems to be to check the thermostat and circuit.

So, is the first thing i need to do:
1) buy a new thermostat? (I have had the car 6 months, have not replaced it in that time, and don't know when it was done before i got it.)

2) If i do get one, do i get the 195 degree one or not? Reading the sticky on this section of the forum about overheating has only confused me, as everyone seems to have a different opinion. :confused:

3) If i am to get one, is that the sort of thing you can walk in and buy at Super Cheap (are they fairly generic), or will i need to get one from Wooders, etc..

Now more lost than ever,
Puk

[tazwegion]

Did you warm up the Jeep first before checking the codes? ;)


Go with the recommended part first, whilst you could test the old part buying new negates this step :mrgreen:

[kj69]

you can buy genuine ones from jeep in bris pretty cheep

[anthonygubbin]

Hey Puk my local Sprints got me one. They only had one listed so I couldn't go wrong. I reckon Super Cheap may be the same but if you have a different supplier up there say Bursons, I would try them first, cause if your local Super Cheap is anything like ours here in SA it is far from cheap.

Regards Anthony

[carvesdodo]

I learned how to check codes and did them for the first time today.

It threw me code 17, which is about the engine not running at a hot enough temperature.

the fix on Go-Jeep's site seems to be to check the thermostat and circuit.

So, is the first thing i need to do:
1) buy a new thermostat? (I have had the car 6 months, have not replaced it in that time, and don't know when it was done before i got it.)

The code is actually an indicator that the engine stays too cold for too long when the vehicle is moving ... NOT that isnt getting hot enough.

A stuck open thermostat is the most likely culprit ... but the CTS and the connector could also be the issue.

This might help ...

1995 FSM ...

17* ... Engine is Cold Too Long.
Engine coolant temperature remains below normal operating temperatures during vehicle travel (thermostat).

1997 FSM ...

17* Engine Is Cold Too Long.
Engine did not reach operating temperature within acceptable limits.

17** P0125 Closed Loop Temp Not Reached.
Engine does not reach 20°F within 5 minutes with a vehicle speed signal.

20*f is -6*c
160* is listed as a warmed temp in the FSM

First thing to do is verify the running temp .... Whats indicated on the gauge ?
How long does it take to warm up to at least 160* ?
Has the indicated temp changed significantly in the 6mnths you've owned the vehicle ?

Clearing the code and seeing whether the code 17 comes back might also be worthwhile .....

Testing the thermostat as tazwegion suggested is also a good move .... but if you remove the old one - that you dont know the history of ... you may as well replace it.


2) If i do get one, do i get the 195 degree one or not? Reading the sticky on this section of the forum about overheating has only confused me, as everyone seems to have a different opinion. :confused:

You'll probably find a 190* or 192* is more commonly available .... 195* is NOT a nescessity ... as indicated by the listing of a 180* as a chrysler spare parts option.

3) If i am to get one, is that the sort of thing you can walk in and buy at Super Cheap (are they fairly generic), or will i need to get one from Wooders, etc..

Yes ... Very generic .... Its a common as muck thermostat used in a bunch of vehicle brands and models for years .... Theres nothing special about it ....

Dayco DT14 series or Tridon TT1 & TT2000 series .... and theres other brands.

[pentastar]

Had the same issue after fitting my new radiator (I think was ADRAD from memory but was few years ago) which had the full copper tanks etc and far better flow. Anyway would warm up to bout 70 no probs then would never get hotter. replaced the thermostat with 180* i think which sprints said was stock?? Exactly the same so replaced with 195* and never had an issue since. sits stable on 90ish on the road and has never been over 105* workin hard in the sand. From what I was always led to belive around that temp is perfect?? Still that was with an aftermarket radiator as well so might not be the answer for you. In my experiance thermostats are cheap and is easy to change so just play till you get it right. The cost of extra fuel (and long term wear) will far outweigh the price of a thermostat and 1/2 hr of your time.

[Puk]

Yeah,
I got my mechanic to throw one in, and he said that the problem wasn't a dud thermostat, it was NO thermostat!

Whoever had it before me must have ripped it out, so hopefully my economy might notice a little change, especially when cold.

Puk

[Puk]

Economy may have changed, but so has overheating. :mad:
It sat above 100 almost all the way, was about 108 by the time i got to the bottom of the range, and through Murphy's Creek to the top of the range at Highfields, it was well into the red.

It seemed to be around the wrong way compared to normal, would heat up at highway speeds, and cool down when down around 60km/h (but only back to around 100 degrees)

and this was all on only about a 17 degree day!

I am wondering if the core is slightly blocked or something, and they took the thermostat out to enable more flow ???:confused:

I really let the genie out of the bottle checking the fault codes i guess.
so i could either take the thermostat back out and live with it, or do the cooling system check and upgrade that i should have done when i got the thing.

How much are those 3 core adrad radiators again?:mad::mad:

Puk

[Puk]

Oh i forgot to mention, the range climb was all done with the heater on high and the windows open.

[carvesdodo]

............ and he said that the problem wasn't a dud thermostat, it was NO thermostat!

Problem solved then ... ;) .. :D

Excessive time period happening before the coolant got to an acceptable temp & code 17 verified ;)

Now all you have to deal with is the fact that the new thermostat is keeping the coolant bottled up in the engine too long - before releasing it to the rad for cooling ... and that it appears your current rad is underperforming for some reason.

While you've got it in bits ... it wouldnt hurt to remove & inspect the waterpump impellor too .....

Highway overheating is typically ... blocked rad or worn/slipping impellor.

[Puk]

Haha,
Just talked to the radiator bloke about how to tell if the viscous fan coupling is buggered, and it looks like it is GONE!

He said to get it up to operating temp, then get the revs up to about 1800 for about 30 seconds or so, and then (with the bonnet up and watching the fan), turn the engine off. It should lock up, and stop with the engine.

Mine just kept right on merrily spinning away for 5 seconds or so, almost like it was doing a few laps of honour.

I am now officially getting a 16" electric fan and wiring it up.

Oh, and the bottom half is also busted off my fan shroud. Just thought i might mention that as well. :rolleyes:

Puk

[Tezza]

Haha,
Just talked to the radiator bloke about how to tell if the viscous fan coupling is buggered, and it looks like it is GONE!

He said to get it up to operating temp, then get the revs up to about 1800 for about 30 seconds or so, and then (with the bonnet up and watching the fan), turn the engine off. It should lock up, and stop with the engine.

Mine just kept right on merrily spinning away for 5 seconds or so, almost like it was doing a few laps of honour.

I am now officially getting a 16" electric fan and wiring it up.

Oh, and the bottom half is also busted off my fan shroud. Just thought i might mention that as well. :rolleyes:

Puk
All this sounds farmiliar I have no trouble until i am at the lights with it still in gear but I can run it at idle all day. tomorrow we will have a look at the spinning fan maybe.
Cheers Tezza

[Puk]

New Fan clutch, thermostat, and adrad radiator later, running pretty cool, and the code is gone.:p

Puk

[Doctor W]

Haha,
Just talked to the radiator bloke about how to tell if the viscous fan coupling is buggered, and it looks like it is GONE!

He said to get it up to operating temp, then get the revs up to about 1800 for about 30 seconds or so, and then (with the bonnet up and watching the fan), turn the engine off. It should lock up, and stop with the engine.

Mine just kept right on merrily spinning away for 5 seconds or so, almost like it was doing a few laps of honour.

I am now officially getting a 16" electric fan and wiring it up.

Oh, and the bottom half is also busted off my fan shroud. Just thought i might mention that as well. :rolleyes:

Puk

Probably cheaper and much better to get bottom 1/2 of shroud (from wreckers) and a new extra heavy duty ( NOT just the standard one) viscous clutch.

[Puk]

Got the heavy duty viscous clutch.
Shroud is pretty cheap from a member of this forum who has wrecked a vehicle, so all is good. Thought it made sense to get the entire system up to scratch, rather than just fix one part, and then have something else fail.

Puk